kklsmith Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 I have a 1993 Loyale, original owner, with engine ticking, and I assume it's the valve lifters. My wife took it in to a shop to have that problem looked at. I'm being told by mechanics, to include the Subaru dealer repair shop, that my 1993 Loyale does not have adjustable valve lash. No body has taken the valve covers off, but they're going by the Subaru repair manual. Do any of you know if there were any 1.8L Subie engines from the early 90's time frame that came without adjustable valve lash nor self-adjusting valves ? I being told it's a just a plain jane non-adjustable valve system engine. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertsubaru Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 No adjustments on the lifters they are hydraulic. You havewhat members the this board call the TOD. (tick of death) Don't take that wrong because it sounds worse then it is. Air is getting into the HLAs (hydraulic lifters) making them tick from lack of oil pressure. Do a search on Tick of death on this board and you will find lots of threads on the fix. A quick run down for the fix is reseal the oil pump and replace the O rings between the cam tower and head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigsti Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Check your belts I had one that started ticking and intended up being a belt coming apart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 You have self adjusting valves. You need to reseal the oil pump - to include the lip seal behind the pulley, and change the cam case o-rings. If that doesn't cure it - replace the lifters with rebuilt units, replace the oil pump, and replace the banjo-bolt releif valve springs in the cam spray bars. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kklsmith Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 Check your belts I had one that started ticking and intended up being a belt coming apart New belts. New timing belts installed @ 45 days ago. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Just get a new oil pump. That has (from what I've read and in my personal experience) solved the ticking problem 99.99 percent of the time. You can get new seals for your existing oil pump and it will solve the problem, but an oil pump will run you about 50 bucks, and if you are going to go through the trouble of having the engine torn down a bit to do the seals, spend the money and get a new oil pump on there. When was the last time it was replaced? You should do it now. And if you can swing it, I'd recommend throwing in a new water pump while you're at it, but that's up to you. Would definitely, definitely recommend just getting a new oil pump though. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rust Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 I recently did a oil pump seal replacement 2 months ago on a ea82 with only 55,000 miles. Unfortunately It did not fix the valve tick issues. The following did work for me. Did this about a month ago. 1. Drained all the oil. 2. Filled the engine with 1 qrt 10w30 oil 2 qrts ATF 1/2 can seafoam. 3. let engine idle for 1/2 hour (tick went away after 20 min.) 3. drained the pan refilled it w/ 10/w30. 4. let it idle for another 15 min. Then drained the pan again. 5. refilled the engine with a new oil filter and 10/w30. That was about 2,500 miles ago and the tick hasn't returned, yet. Kinda wish I had done this first before spending an afternoon wrenching in a new set of seals. But new seals are important. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildhair Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 Probably too late on this. But I'd use the KISS principle. You can try Rust's trick. Or just replace the oil pump. It's easy to get to and replace. And cheap. I'd skip the water pump for now, not as easy to get to. Do it when timing belts are replaced or it starts leaking. I replaced one once as preventative maintenance, PITA. It was first the wrong one (dealer air conditioning has different pulley offset than factory air, so I had to remove and adjust the pulley) then it turned out to be defective and leaked right out of the box, had to do it again! And sealing that stupid water pipe was a pain too. (it's easier if you don't have a/c) If it ain't broke don't fix it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 This... ...The following did work for me. Did this about a month ago. 1. Drained all the oil. 2. Filled the engine with 1 qrt 10w30 oil 2 qrts ATF 1/2 can seafoam. 3. let engine idle for 1/2 hour (tick went away after 20 min.) 3. drained the pan refilled it w/ 10/w30. 4. let it idle for another 15 min. Then drained the pan again. 5. refilled the engine with a new oil filter and 10/w30. That was about 2,500 miles ago and the tick hasn't returned, yet. Kinda wish I had done this first before spending an afternoon wrenching in a new set of seals. But new seals are important. ...is a Good Way to Clean the Oil Passages that must have been Dirty, however, there are other Ways, such like to use a Motor Flush Detergent, etc... Have you seen how Tiny is the Filling Hole for the Oil to get onto the Hydraulic Lifters? So I Believe that Both, the Oil Pump Reseal Plus the Cleansing Procedure Was Needed to fix completely a T.O.D. And both should be Needed in the Original Poster's Subaru. To Reseal the Oil Pump includes the (in)Famous "Mickey Mouse" Shaped Seal Ring, who usually is the Culprit to the T.O.D. Because when its dry, it trends to be somehow "Sucked" and it lets Air to go to the Oil... Good Luck! Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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