raging squirrel Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Does anyone here know what the 5 speed d/r transmission weighs? Anyone shipped one? I need to know for a project I am planning. Anyone got one laying around that they could toss on the old bathroom scale? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortysayhi Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Which one, 5 speed Hi/low or the rx trans? (I'm not sure they differ in weight but its possible). i am dropping a hi/low trans in the coming week ill weigh it unless someone else has the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raging squirrel Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 5 speed hi/lo. I am looking into a Metro 3 cyl conversion and am calculating finished vehicle weight to see if it is feasible. Always wanted a 50mpg Brat! I have found a reasonable way to build it, but overall weight will decide if it will work. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 I've carried them around a few times....probably 80ish lbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 (edited) Had an RX trans shipped on a pallet by SAIA Motor Freight and it was about $100.00 (dollars) I think. Edited March 17, 2012 by Crazyeights Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raging squirrel Posted March 16, 2012 Author Share Posted March 16, 2012 $100 or 100 lbs.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 I would have to guess, about 135 pounds was what my 4spd D/R felt like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Not trying to pee on your project, but having bolted more engines to transmissions or vehicles that were never intended, there's a few things to consider. The Metro was a 50 mpg when brand new. With age and mileage, your down to 40. I know several who have owned them. Metro's eat exhaust valves for breakfast. A sad fact, but true none the less. The metro weighs about 5 or 600lbs less than a Hatch. Add the extra weight of a subie, the rolling resistance of adding the 4wd components and you will be down to around 30-35 and 35 is optimistic. It doesn't matter if you're in 4wd or not. Since the driveline has no disconnect, you have added resistance (friction) to the drivetrain through it, the rear diff, axle shafts and rear bearings. If you're planning on turning the Metro 4wd, you've got 120lbs of tranny, about another100-120lbs of rear mustache bar, diff, driveline and axles and approx 50lbs of misc fabbing. Add to that the fact you have no place to run the rear driveline without serious mods.... Just playing devils advocate here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raging squirrel Posted March 16, 2012 Author Share Posted March 16, 2012 (edited) My plans are MUCH different than that. So here goes: Remove Subaru engine, transaxle/t-case assembly, half shafts, and radiator. Remove Jump seat assembly if still there. Replace parts using Metro radiator and engine, and Suzuki Samurai 5speed transmission. The Metro 3cyl. bolts directly to the Samurai transmission. Required items: custom engine mounts, radiator mounts, and transmission crossmember. I will also need to build a stand alone efi harness and modify the gas tank for the fuel pump. This will be rear drive only. No need for four wheel drive, I have a custom built Samurai for serious offroad use. It was a complete frame up build and vastly more complicated and labor intensive than this. This is more of a weekend project at best (outside of the wiring harness which will take a few days to do right). Metros? I have owned four of them and still drive one. I know about the valves, not as big of a problem as most think, if properly addressed. Bottom line is that I need something with a pickup box to haul baitfish and other malodorous or bulky items while maintaining economy. The Brat is the lightest platform to start with other than the VW rabbit truck. The Brat makes for an easy rear drive conversion, the VW does not. With proper weight distribution, rear drive is better in the snow or on sand trails. My 64 Ranchero was proof of that. Then there is the limited slip option too. I do intend to use the Metro XFI ecu and camshaft. This is what gave that model a 58mpg rating (along with gearing). The weight figures: the Metro I currently drive is the heavier 95 model with a factory curb weight of 1880 lbs. The FSM specs for non turbo Brat models range from 2175-2245 lbs. After doing the math, The lighter drive components along with ditching the jumpseats and all non Metro underhood items will get me very close to Metro weight. I can easily keep the weight of the few hand fabbed conversion items to less than 10 lbs total. The thinwall 4130 tube crossmember will weigh less than 2 lbs. The factory engine/transaxle mounts are aluminum and will be reused. Remember, the engine only produces 60 lb/ft of torque, no need to us 1/4" plate for the mounting tabs. There are many other items than can be replaced with parts of my own manufacture to get me well below that 1880 mark. Non structural parts. I can later address those in my spare time. Not my first trip around the block with altering a car or truck. A tremendous amount of thought has gone into this over the past several months. I cannot, however, reach the early Metro model's weight of 1650 lbs. So it will not be a ball of fire for sure. Merely adequate transport at a minimum of operating expense...and much cooler than my Metro! Edited March 16, 2012 by raging squirrel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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