uniberp Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 (edited) 99 Forester L 2.5 SOHC Phase II 160k miles with a failed rod bearing, I'm pretty sure. VIN has "6" 6th digit, and the 1999 is MAF. Very very bad noises. But it starts and idles no check engine light, so I doubt timing belt tensioner issues or a failed cylinder. It has had piston slap since 90k miles, and we lived with it. My choices are a junkyard motor for about $1500, or maybe just repair the rod bearing, but if I were to do that, it would be a whole gasket set ($250), bearing set ($60), a timing set ($125), and then it would make sense to do pistons ($240), plus valve job, incidentals and machine shop and the rebuild time. Writing it out pretty much settled it, I have to go the junkyard route in order to get this done this week. Can someone please confirm that any 2.5 sohc up to 2004 will work? I know there are some swaps of crank pulleys and sensors and stuff to back-compatible-it with non-variable valve timing stuff. But I may just repair that bearing and save the old shortblock for a frankenmotor. Or if someone want to chime in and say just clean up the journal, mic it for size, slap a new bearing in and call it good. It would still piston slap though. Hard to sell a soob to a noob with even that noise. Sympathies or constructive advice only thank you. Edited March 26, 2012 by uniberp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 Piston slap is iminenet regardless. That's just what the 2.5s do. Rebuilding is probably not worth it, a block with fewer miles can be dropped in in much less time and will give you several years of good service for half the price of a rebuild. Digging into the block to replace one rod bearing is a waste of time. Others will soon follow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john40iowa Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 Our '99 Forester did the same thing at about 130K. It still ran, but I didn't trust it. At that mileage we had it completely bored out and rebuilt and it was costly. In the long run it has been a very reliable (trouble free engine-wise) six years since. With 160K I think the junk yard way might be best, also I found some tempting options on EBAY. Not certain, but it seems like others here have stated everything will match up until 2002. That year was a just a little off for Subaru's 2.5s in my opinion; although, otherwise the car has been a tank in terms of service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 Is it an auto trans car? The flexplates are known to crack around the hub of the crank and make noise just like a rod bearing. Pull the rubber inspection plug out of the bellhousing, it's on the top rear of the engine to the passenger side of the throttle body. If the noise is a lot louder coming out of there, that may be your problem. The timing belt tensioner, as you mentioned, can make a similar noise too. I've had SOHC's come in still running with the cogged tooth idler gone, or with the bearings missing out of it and the idler running metal on metal, so the timing belt can be really loose and not jump time depending on your luck. You can take off the drivers side timing belt cover and look in to see if the belt is flapping under the idler. Draining the oil and looking for shiny metal glitter is a good test to do too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 If everything else fails: http://www.ssisubaruspecialists.com/subaru-engine-remanufacturing-2/ (The last time I suggested this place they didn't answer, though...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 www.car-part.com Good junk yard search engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 You can use an SOHC up to 2004 BUT there are a few things to swap. You need to swap your crank timing gear and your driver's side cam gear. They have different pickups for the crank and cam sensors. And you'll just want to use your intake manifold and intake system. Other than that, the longblock is the same and will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 On ANY Subaru 2.5 I do HG's and timing belt stuff before installing the "new" engine while it's out and accessable. ALso literally gives me look inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uniberp Posted March 26, 2012 Author Share Posted March 26, 2012 Great answers. Those gave me some hope, but I checked with that plug and the noise is that distinctive "hammer on anvil" banging regularly with each rev. It had an external HG leak anyhow, and used a little oil, plus the piston slap. I found a few engines nearby for <$1500. If I'm wrong I'l have a handy spare or make a few bucks installing it for someone else. Is it an auto trans car? The flexplates are known to crack around the hub of the crank and make noise just like a rod bearing. Pull the rubber inspection plug out of the bellhousing, it's on the top rear of the engine to the passenger side of the throttle body. If the noise is a lot louder coming out of there, that may be your problem. The timing belt tensioner, as you mentioned, can make a similar noise too. I've had SOHC's come in still running with the cogged tooth idler gone, or with the bearings missing out of it and the idler running metal on metal, so the timing belt can be really loose and not jump time depending on your luck. You can take off the drivers side timing belt cover and look in to see if the belt is flapping under the idler. Draining the oil and looking for shiny metal glitter is a good test to do too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 I have put 2.2 and early 2.5s in place of the phase 2 2.5 if you use a 96-99 phase one you must use the thick headgaskets and with a 2.2 must use a phase 2 2.2 headgasket no valve interferance or problems. The 2.2 short block seems to be cheapest and most reliable. Oh and you only use 4 bell housing bolts and have to hili coil lower starter bolt and put stud in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uniberp Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 I have an engine, and now a local contact who may be a valuable resource in the future. Cleanest home shop I ever saw. He has only subarus there, and says he has done 20+ engines. "99-05 + Subaru Forester / Outback / Legacy EJ251 / EJ253 SOHC 2.5L Engine. Cylinder heads: Pressure checked, cleaned, resurface, valve grind, 2 new exhaust valves, and valve lash adjustment. Cylinder Block: Cleaned, ( remove, check bottom end, and reseal oil pan ), ( remove, check, and reseal oil pump ) , remove and reseal PCV plate. Timing and water pump: Pulleys, tensioner, belt and water pump replaced within 10,000 miles. Plus new thermostat and gasket. Felpro gasket kit HS 26170 PT-1 used in repair of engine. All remaining gaskets from kit are included with engine assembly. ..." Talked at length about bottom end and bores, and I saw for myself the original crosshatching in a 150k+ mile engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Clean home shop must be bored lol putting a 2.2 into a 04 impreza 2.5 today so let you know how it works out. Have two of the exact 2.5 imprezas here today so i can compare the power differance if any will let you guys know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Mostly done waiting for headgaskets needs to be 2.2b gasket to work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 timing belt is a bit tight had to use older tensioner and shave the end of the addjuster a bitt but whent together well slight mod on headgasket had to slot one hole tiny bitt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 Runs perfect no problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 (edited) remove and reseal PCV plate bad move. before you install that engine, go to the dealer and order a new seperator plate and screws and seal it with ultra grey gasket maker. If he removed and resealed the plastic one IT WILL FAIL! The new ones from the dealer are STEEL and about 25 bucks. It's good insurance. also those fail-pro head gaskets are junk. Anyone who "does" subaru engines alot WILL tell you to use dealer, cometic or six star. fel-pro's are junk. by ordering the fail-pro head set of gaskets you save money by cheaping out.... Edited March 30, 2012 by Ricearu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 bad move. before you install that engine, go to the dealer and order a new seperator plate and screws and seal it with ultra grey gasket maker. If he removed and resealed the plastic one IT WILL FAIL! The new ones from the dealer are STEEL and about 25 bucks. It's good insurance.. Pretty sure somewhere around 96-98 they started using a aluminum plate. those are fine to reseal. Use "Right Stuff", not ultra grey......ultra grey will leak eventually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 yeah that is why i said the plastic one. my 98 foz had a plastic one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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