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1997 Outback Torque Bind Questions...I have read the other threads


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My 1997 Outback is experiencing what sounds like torque bind. I did the drain/fill 3 times on the tranny and that seemed to help but I was doing mostly short local drives. After my first longer drive, the symptoms returned so I then changed the front diff fluid. The symptoms are less severe but still bad. The tranny does shift much better now, though. All tires are the same brand, size and inflation. I then put a 20a fuse in the fwd holder and the car did not recognize it. After a couple of days the car did finally start and indicate fwd on the display panel. All symptoms were gone in fwd mode. However, the next day the car doesn't recognize the fuse anylonger and it hasn't since (about a week). The fuse is still good so I'm not sure what this means for my car. Also, can the rear or center diff be the cause of this binding? I haven't changed the fluid in those (or is there just a center?) but I will gladly if they could also be the problem. My trans light flashes repeatedly on startup and now the binding is present even when cold. Thanks for your help.

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Your Duty C solenoid is failing, so it "can't" go into FWD mode.

 

Fluid might have helped some because after awhile the clutches were also starting to bind - so the fluid helped free up some clutches but the solenoid is still hosed.

 

Needs a new Duty C solenoid.

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Your Duty C solenoid is failing, so it "can't" go into FWD mode.

 

Fluid might have helped some because after awhile the clutches were also starting to bind - so the fluid helped free up some clutches but the solenoid is still hosed.

 

Needs a new Duty C solenoid.

 

Thanks for the info. How much on average should i expect that repair to cost?

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Just paid to have one done on a 96 outback. About $100 for the duty c and the various seals etc and $180 in labor. Runs like a champ now. We had teh 16 AT oil lamp flash, a little bit of torque bind, but a smooth shifting trans before and after duty c.

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Just paid to have one done on a 96 outback. About $100 for the duty c and the various seals etc and $180 in labor. Runs like a champ now. We had teh 16 AT oil lamp flash, a little bit of torque bind, but a smooth shifting trans before and after duty c.

 

Wow! That sounds really cheap! What kind of shop did you go to?

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I've read that dealers will charge $800+ for this repair. Your best bet would be to find a good independent shop, or do it yourself. There are several how-to guides around. The transmission does not have to be removed.

 

I've never done this repair, but since picking up my first automatic Subaru a few months ago I've read all about it as it will probably need a new Duty C and clutch pack some day.

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I've read that dealers will charge $800+ for this repair. Your best bet would be to find a good independent shop, or do it yourself. There are several how-to guides around. The transmission does not have to be removed.

 

I've never done this repair, but since picking up my first automatic Subaru a few months ago I've read all about it as it will probably need a new Duty C and clutch pack some day.

 

I will definately have to go to a shop. I've just moved to Minneapolis and don't have a garage right now. Anyone in the Twin Cities know of a good shop I could go to?

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I've read that dealers will charge $800+ for this repair. Your best bet would be to find a good independent shop, or do it yourself. There are several how-to guides around. The transmission does not have to be removed.

 

I've never done this repair, but since picking up my first automatic Subaru a few months ago I've read all about it as it will probably need a new Duty C and clutch pack some day.

 

Thats the going price for a rebuild of the complete AWD unit, clutch pack, seals, solenoid

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Your Duty C solenoid is failing, so it "can't" go into FWD mode.

 

Fluid might have helped some because after awhile the clutches were also starting to bind - so the fluid helped free up some clutches but the solenoid is still hosed.

 

Needs a new Duty C solenoid.

 

Would you also recommend replacing the clutches at the same time then? Is that a neccessesity while doing the solenoid? The diff oil was dirty but did not exhibit the metalic flakey residue.

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Does the AT temp light flash on 16 times on the dash when you first start the car?

 

Yep. It didn't always do it when I first bought the car but the last road trip put it over the edge so now it does it every time. I got a quote from a local tranny shop for $900...the dealership wanted $1600-$2100 for the same thing!

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If the clutches are badly worn, those should be replaced along with the Duty C solenoid (note: the dealer parts counter person will be looking up something like "transfer valve assembly" for you--correct, as the solenoid comes attached to a new valve body). Otherwise, the clutch pack can be left alone. Last summer, I had the Duty C replaced on my '96 Outback. I had a nearby independent garage do it; they aren't Subaru specialists, so I had to explain things thoroughly, but that was fine. I'd have done it myself, but I didn't have time for it. The total cost was about $570 without a new clutch pack, including dealer-supplied parts. I didn't see a need to change the clutch pack because the AWD system had been flawless until it began binding consistently, with the symptoms of Duty C failure. Note: labor is more expensive here in the Silicon Valley than in many other locales. It might have been less expensive from a shop with prior experience doing this job, but I was happy to get it done a half mile from home by someone I know. It's not complicated work, but I believe it's easier with the car on a lift instead of jackstands.

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