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Official 6-Lug Re-drill Thread: Now in the USRM!


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My best friend has worked in a tire shop since we were in high school and their rule over there is they won't mount a tire on a wheel that is more than a third narrower than the tire.

 

IE: Won't put a 12.5 tire on anything narrower than an 8" wheel, a 10.5 on narrower than 7" wheel, or a 9.5 tire on narrower than a 6" wheel.

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i was thinking about getting those 14" cregars and then just running the same maxxis bighorns that you have. because if i go to a 15" i have to run a 30" and i dont think i can do that with a 2" lift.

 

You could run the BFGoodrich ATs which are gonna last longer, the Bighorns don't wear for sh*t for a DD (Ask me how I know lol) You'll also be blowing $700 on tires alone.

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The General Grabbers are garbage in deep snow so I've been told. xbeerd has a set on his car (And I have one for my 5th wheel) I would get the BFGs if you do a lot of driving with the car and they are better in every terrain (Except deep mud, which is where the Bighorns come into play)

 

Guess it all depends what you are gonna be doing the most with the tires.

 

My Bighorns have about 6000 miles on them and are showing signs of wear, more so now that I've been doing a lot of interstate.

 

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ya im going to iether get the BFG's or something that it alittle bit more aggressive. i do alot of highway, not much city driving. out of the 5k miles i put on it a year ( on average ). about 3k on the highway the other 2 k is all dirt roads, and in the mountains.

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Please no. The title says it's about the 6-lug conversion, but the first half of the posts talk about trailer wheels. Followed by some discussion on what backspacing and offset are.

 

 

It's a fine thread, which has answered many questions for you about your situation. But it will not make very good future reference for someone else.

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I personally have gained very much from this thread and feel it pertinent for those seeking answers to the "trailer wheel" questions.

 

To add to this thread I offer my latest ideas and purchases.

 

I have been reading a ton and pulled the trigger on a set of wheels and tires. Based on my drawing from below and the fact I have received the wheels and tires, I feel I found a great answer to the trailer wheels questions.

 

Here is my drawing of the wheels that I used to order the wheels:

wheels4.jpg

 

Here is what I bought:

Kuhmo Ecsta's in the 205 50 R15 flavor and US Wheels 70-5760P in the 15"X7" flavor.

 

As you can see the overall dimensions are almost exact. My only concern is the width with the new 205's. But, I am hopeful they will not rub.

 

Here they are unmounted:

photo-1.jpg

photo.jpg

photo-7.jpg

 

Due to the additional height of the wheels and the additional width of the tires it looks like I will clear the rear control arms by a few millimeters.

 

Just need to get them mounted up and the hubs converted to 6-lugs. Then I will know if I was right mathematically?!

Jon

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Please no. The title says it's about the 6-lug conversion, but the first half of the posts talk about trailer wheels. Followed by some discussion on what backspacing and offset are.

 

 

It's a fine thread, which has answered many questions for you about your situation. But it will not make very good future reference for someone else.

 

at one end of the scale i do see your point, but on the other end i dont; because why would some one read a " 6 lug re-drill" thread if there not interested in using a 6 lug wheel. this whole thread is based on the idea of "can i use trailer tires so i dont have to re-drill" and " if i re-drill what do i need to do/ what tires/wheels should i look for." i have also learned alot of information from this thread! :)

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The thread is indeed about 6-Lug trailer wheels, as they are cheap. It is also about proving that Trailer wheels have the Safety bead, so a tire shop will not have an issue mounting tires on them (At least mine won't) some places might still be picky.

 

So then the discussion was, should the rim be re-drilled or the hub its self. In this case, I opt for re-drilling the hub, so you can run any 6x5.5-lug you want (Toyota, Chevy, Nissan) Backspacing and Offset are helpful when looking at other manufactures' wheels, Trailer wheels seem to have the correct backspacing for what I want, Toyota also seems to have the correct spacing.

 

There are also links posted to "How-To Threads" on re-drilling to 6x5.5 which is nice.

 

I think re-drilling is a better option then trying to track down expensive Pugs like I did once. Which is why I think a lot of newbies would be into this thread as an option.

 

This was my intension when I made the thread, If it doesn't become a sticky, thats fine. I'm sure there is still enough interest to keep this thread on top for a while.

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If it IS posted as a sticky, I would suggest a change to a different, more specific title. Something like:

 

6-Lug Trailer Wheels on EA Series Cars.

 

I would also Compile the critical information all into the first post.

 

Definitions, Safety bead info, Drilling wheels/hubs info/links, etc.

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My thought exactly, All useful info would go into the first post, some of the preference posts could be left in the thread for others to decipher which options best suit them.

 

The re-drill info is the same for any 6-lug wheel that uses 6x5.5 bolt pattern, so it doesn't have to be specified that it is only for Trailer wheels, as this would be the 6-lug conversion thread, I've never seen any other thread on here with the info needed. Compiling data thread if you would.

 

Wilcox, a Sticky is a setting you can apply to any thread, so that it remains at the top the forum and will never need to be bumped (Like the EA81 Engine year there)

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