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Need some help figuring out what the problems are..


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My GF recently bought an 05 legacy from a friend of ours.. sadly he didnt even tell us nearly how many problems it seems to have.

 

Problem 1. The BRAKE light is on, always when the car is on. The guy we bought it from claims when he put in the HID kit thats what set it off. We have taken it to a subaru dealership and with a few simple things they checked they found nothing, and the brakes work fine and always have.

 

Problem 2. The cruise does not work. It will activate, but it jerks faster then slows down in a jerking motion. Its crazy annoying and soon the cruise light starts flashing and the cruise stops working at all. Then when you shut it off and turn it back on it starts all over again.

 

Problem 3. The check engine light comes on. We have brought it to a subaru dealer for that too and they say its the code for the gas cap not being on right. They even put on a brand new gas cap and it doesnt help. It has to be a leak somewhere but where do I start? The odd thing about this one is that when the check engine light is on the car sounds really odd and runs a little off. It idles low and sounds like a tractor at idle, kinda like its only firing on 3 cylinders. I think the bimbo who owned it before my GF also said she overfilled the tank.. Someone should tell her when it stops, its full!

 

Subaru also has no idea where to start and they say it will cost a fortune. My GF has no money for this and I have decided that since I fix everything else i will fix this too. I am very experienced with mechanical things but I want a second opinion problems! Subaru checked everything obvious. Please let me know if you have any advice!

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Brake light sounds like the switch for the parking brake

 

Cruise issue sounds like an issue with the speed sensor or a tear in the cruise diaphragm somewhere

 

CEL could be a number of relatively easy things. Things that someone else besides me will be along with shortly.

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I'm thinking the CC and brake light on problems are related. The CC system is designed to disengage when the brakes are applied. I'm thinking the CC is engaging/disengaging because it thinks the brakes are being applied.

 

The brake light is on either because the fluid level in the MC is low or the sensor in the MC is defected.

 

Firing on 3 cylinders sounds like either a spark plug or wire problem.

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If the CEL is on best get to an Auto Parts store and have them read the PXXXX code and bring that code here to help us solve the problem. The brake light issue has been addressed in other posts.

 

And find someone else other than that dealer to work on her car.

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Had a pile with pin holes in filler spout one tiny hole will set check engine light the filler has a plastic cover that holds gravel and rubs trough the filler any gas smell ? or a spark plug has burned off the tip or feul preshure. There may also be a idle kicker for headlights may not like your hids

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Had a pile with pin holes in filler spout one tiny hole will set check engine light the filler has a plastic cover that holds gravel and rubs trough the filler any gas smell ? or a spark plug has burned off the tip or feul preshure. There may also be a idle kicker for headlights may not like your hids

 

hmmm.... I HAVE had 'spurious' codes set in our Outback when the battery had a bad cell. Could be battery/batt cables/charging/alt related i suppose.

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If your dealer is unable to diagnose this you need to find a different dealer. This is not an old unusual vehicle. Check engine and brake lights are things they should be able to diagnose easily. I think they should also be able to address the idle issues too fairly easily. If they are not able to and are telling you "it will cost a fortune" take your business somewhere else, and I would demand the diagnostic fee back (whether they give it back or not) since they didnt really diagnose anything.

 

Take it to autozone etc and have them use the code reader to get your diagnostic codes from the CEL. It sounds like the dealer figured it was evap related, but if it is running rough too there is probably another problem as well?

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Cruise doesn't work when you have a misfire. New spark plugs and wires (NGK brand or OE Subaru) should fix that. If that car has the coil pack on each plug make sure they aren't swimming in oil because of bad valve cover seals.

 

The brake light is a warning for several different problems, each one will have to be checked individually to determine the source. If the po hacked in some aftermarket hid kit, start by finding out where he ran the wires and disconnect all of them one at a time and see if the light goes away.

It could also just be a sticky switch on the parking brake handle from someone spilling coke in the center console.

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Thanks for all the replies! I will check all these things you guys mentioned, Im at work on it right now! I will be taking it to Oreilys for a code reading because I am done with this dealership. They are just saying "just leave the car here a while and maybe we can find whats wrong" I ask them if it could be a bad purge valve or a bad vapor canistor and they just say "idk". Would the brake light and the crusie light also throw a code? Also the car only sounds bad and seems to be running on 3 cylinders when the check engine light is on. When we shut it off, the car runs normal again. I thought about plugs and wires and are wires cheap? Ill just replace them if theyre pretty cheap.

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Brake light sounds like the switch for the parking brake

 

Cruise issue sounds like an issue with the speed sensor or a tear in the cruise diaphragm somewhere

 

CEL could be a number of relatively easy things. Things that someone else besides me will be along with shortly.

 

Wheres the speed sensor? Ill check it out if I can find out where its at haha. I will check the parking brake switch too, who knows what they got messed up in there.

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Thanks for all the replies! I will check all these things you guys mentioned, Im at work on it right now! I will be taking it to Oreilys for a code reading because I am done with this dealership. They are just saying "just leave the car here a while and maybe we can find whats wrong" I ask them if it could be a bad purge valve or a bad vapor canistor and they just say "idk". Would the brake light and the crusie light also throw a code? Also the car only sounds bad and seems to be running on 3 cylinders when the check engine light is on. When we shut it off, the car runs normal again. I thought about plugs and wires and are wires cheap? Ill just replace them if theyre pretty cheap.

 

If possible, record the PXXXX codes, record any Freezeframe data too if available (short and long term fuel trims fo rinstance might be helpful) and have them clear the codes. (sometimes, due to laws, they must show you which button to push to clear the codes) then, monitor how quickly the CEL comes back, and have the code re-read. Sometimes just odd electrical glitches will set a code, sometimes sensor get 'lazy' and might only set codes every few weeks under very specific conditions.

 

Codes are good for pointing to 'areas' that are exhibiting performance outside of pre-set thresholds - BUT, the ECU only reacts to what it's sensing. When senors are bad or have poor connections, a CEL is set. Don't be too concerned if O'Reilly's printout claims you need a catalytic conv. for instance. Sometimes you just need a new sensor, or a vacuum hose is loose or cracked. OBDII is nice, but not a perfect guide.

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I was just at Oreilys and the code is P0457. I turned it back off and then the next time I started the car it took a good 5 cranks which is unusual. They just let me use the scanner, and I dont think it had a way to check for missfires it just popped up with the P0457 code and said Evaporative emission system leak detected (fuel cap loose/off). And as soon as the lights off the car sounded like it was running on all cylinders again. I tried the cruise again on the way home (it doesnt work at all when the check engine light is on) and it is barely noticceable that it speeds up and slows down in a jerking type way. The RPMs done change but it kicks forward real quick constantly.

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Try replacing the fuel cap. A P0457 indicates a small evap leak and usually that's the cause of it. Check engine light, depending on the codes, will also trigger the cruise control light to flash and the cruise will be inoperative.

 

I have also seen small evap leaks from the charcoal canister area as well.

 

Check the brake master cylinder level, if its low, top it up and see if the light goes out. I have seen it where the float that controls the switch in the master cylinder can get cockeyed in the master cylinder causing it to stick in the down position, leaving the light on.

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Do a search here for threads related to that code and evap problems.

 

Sometimes a connector at the charcoal canister is corroded - or the canister gets punctured.

 

Seems like you will need to diligently start searching for evap and other vapor/vacuum lines/canisters or equipment (like plastic nozzles/nipples/tee fittings) that may be broken, cracked, missing or wrongly connected.

 

Start with any place the car has been damaged, modded or repaired.

 

Sometimes, a 'smoke' test can find vacuum leaks - or , uh, carefully, using a propane torch with it's valve cracked open a little to blow propane around the vacuum lines will cause the engine to idle-up. I'd reserve that as a last ditch effort.

 

ugh - laptop dieing

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Try replacing the fuel cap. A P0457 indicates a small evap leak and usually that's the cause of it. Check engine light, depending on the codes, will also trigger the cruise control light to flash and the cruise will be inoperative.

 

I have also seen small evap leaks from the charcoal canister area as well.

 

Check the brake master cylinder level, if its low, top it up and see if the light goes out. I have seen it where the float that controls the switch in the master cylinder can get cockeyed in the master cylinder causing it to stick in the down position, leaving the light on.

 

Subaru put a brand new cap on it for me and that hasnt solved the problem unfortunately.

 

Ill try and check the master cylinder later today

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Do a search here for threads related to that code and evap problems.

 

Sometimes a connector at the charcoal canister is corroded - or the canister gets punctured.

 

Seems like you will need to diligently start searching for evap and other vapor/vacuum lines/canisters or equipment (like plastic nozzles/nipples/tee fittings) that may be broken, cracked, missing or wrongly connected.

 

Start with any place the car has been damaged, modded or repaired.

 

Sometimes, a 'smoke' test can find vacuum leaks - or , uh, carefully, using a propane torch with it's valve cracked open a little to blow propane around the vacuum lines will cause the engine to idle-up. I'd reserve that as a last ditch effort.

 

ugh - laptop dieing

 

 

Well she was in a front passenger side crash.. The girl before my ladie was I mean. Can I use my mityvac brake bleeder with a gauge on it to find the leak? On the box for it (just bought it for my motorcylce the other day) it says it can be used for emissions leaks. Or where can I get a smoke tester? I wish I could find a manual or a diagram or anything really on where all this stuff is located in the car. Im having issues seeing it. I saw a lot of hoses by the gas tank and going up to the rear driver side fender and I assume thats where a lot of it is?

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The connection between the brake light and the HID headlights is the Daytime running circuit.

 

The DRL's activate whenever the car is in gear, with the park brake off.

 

not sure WHY it's lighting the brake light, but that is the connection between the 2 systems.

 

personally I'd say ditch the HID's. They kill alternators, fry connectors, and they are obnoxious to oncoming traffic and should be illegal for road use.

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The connection between the brake light and the HID headlights is the Daytime running circuit.

 

The DRL's activate whenever the car is in gear, with the park brake off.

 

not sure WHY it's lighting the brake light, but that is the connection between the 2 systems.

 

personally I'd say ditch the HID's. They kill alternators, fry connectors, and they are obnoxious to oncoming traffic and should be illegal for road use.

 

Ive been wanting the HIDs gone since we bought the car.. maybe if i just undo the HIDs and take them out the brake light will just go off? Itd be worth a try.

 

Also now that Ive been paying more attention to the cars noises its making since somethings obviously wrong, it sounds kinda like its running a little off at all times. I was wondering if its got a miss if that would make the cruise go down the road wierd?

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