Moosen Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 Okay well i really need some insight as to what the problem might be? I put a nail through the roll pin spot and it is staying in place. I bent the other side. I dont have a 1/2" breaker bar to get the axle nut loose, because I borrowed my friends before. but could that really be what is making the knocking sound? I seriously can't figure this out. I mean..it wouldn't be driving if I installed it wrong right? I just took it around the block and it didn't knock more either way i turned, just a consistent knock. And when i was accelerating and driving the axle it would knock more........ hmmmmmmmmmm Nothing is bad in my tranny right?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 You just aren't listening. I've told you that it could be the wheel bearings or the cone washer. How many times do you suppose I've been to this rodeo? I do this for a living ya know.... GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 You just aren't listening. I've told you that it could be the wheel bearings or the cone washer. How many times do you suppose I've been to this rodeo? I do this for a living ya know.... GD What does the wheel bearing knocking sound like? isn't it more of a whrrrr? How hard is it to replace the wheel bearings? The cone washer is the part that goes right before the axle nut right? Well cone washer inside hub, washer, then axle nut? Also is it bad to drive like this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Front wheel bearings will need to be pressed Out and In via 12ton press (Unlike the rear wheel bearings) You will need to remove the entire knuckle, either buy a press from Harbor Freight or take it to a Machine shop, Bumper to Bumper could press the bearings for you. You are looking at about $70 a bearing with 2 $5 seals. GD is correct, I'm sure he's delt with all this stuff more then once as have most of us. If you leave the wheel on, jack it up and try to tug on the wheel, you should get some play if there is a back wheel bearing. No play at all is what you want, as that means you have a Good wheel bearing. As for noises, different bearing styles can make different noises and depending how they are failing can cause different noises as stated. Most times its a Moaning sound, but knocking is also possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 If you leave the wheel on, jack it up and try to tug on the wheel, you should get some play if there is a back wheel bearing. No play at all is what you want, as that means you have a Good wheel bearing. Pull the wheel out? and have the car in gear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Front wheel bearings will need to be pressed Out and In via 12ton press (Unlike the rear wheel bearings) You will need to remove the entire knuckle, either buy a press from Harbor Freight or take it to a Machine shop, Bumper to Bumper could press the bearings for you. You are looking at about $70 a bearing with 2 $5 seals. WHAT?! You don't need a press for front ea wheel bearings. Nor do the bearings cost $70 each. There's a generic bearing you can get, can't remember the number. GD or someone will chime in with what it is. You can use a punch to get the old bearings out, and a PVC adapter to drive the new ones in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Jack the corner up and try to shake the tire, any motion is bad, the in/out will be wheel bearings, other motion could be ball joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 (edited) Pull the wheel out? and have the car in gear? Doesn't matter if car is in gear or not, a bad bearing will move no matter what (Unless the brakes are clamping it) You want to do a pushing/pulling motion on the wheel, either left to right (As if you are trying to turn the wheel) and or top to bottom. One hand pushing, the other hand pulling. You can also check for Bad tierod ends and Balljoints this way (Do not worry about this at the moment) Edited April 5, 2012 by TheLoyale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 WHAT?!You don't need a press for front ea wheel bearings. Nor do the bearings cost $70 each. There's a generic bearing you can get, can't remember the number. GD or someone will chime in with what it is. You can use a punch to get the old bearings out, and a PVC adapter to drive the new ones in. I had to press the bearings out on an XT MonsterWedge (4cyl) it took a few tons and then it finally popped. As for cost, I like to buy decent bearings. National bearings for the rear of my EA81 was $70 a bearing (But Moog is always expensive) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoveTheeSubie Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Pull the wheel out? and have the car in gear?t Jack up your car up enough to get your wheel off the ground, then grab your wheel(tire) with both hands, one hand 12 O'clock position on the wheel(tire) and your other hand 6 O'clock position on the wheel(tire) then a push n' pull on the wheel(one hand push & the other pull) checking for any Loose Play. Repeat again with a 9 O'clock and 3 O'clock hand on wheel position. I have replaced both Axles before and came to find out I Either had a Bad Wheel Bearing and/or a Bad Cone Washer Instead of a Bad CV Axle. Live and Learn I guess. Good Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Jack your car up, leave the tire in place and the parking brake set. Grab the tire from the top & bottom and pull the top towards you while pushing away at the bottom, then push the top and pull the bottom. Your wheel shouldn't budge at all. If it does, your bearings are bad. You do not need a press to remove or re-install front bearings, but you do need a steady hand, and alittle knowledge on how to not ************ things up with a hammer. knocking could be a CV joint, bearings, tie rod, stripped hubs, loose lug nuts, missing washer between the castle nut and the cone washer or maybe something is just loose. You could have also got a bad CV joint from the parts store. It happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 Thank you for all your posts guys! I will check my cone washer tomorrow and do the push pull test. crossing my fingers that it is an easy fix, I have a 1600 mile road trip on the 17th. Hopefully not wheel bearings. My tie rod bushings look pretty dry and cracking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Just remember, there are no dumb questions. (only dumb answers lol) Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 Just remember, there are no dumb questions. (only dumb answers lol) Cheers. If it is the cone washer? What should i look for as far as that is concerned? and where could i get a new one? and If it was the wheel bearings, would you recommend just bringing it to a shop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Look for nicks and gouges on the Cone Washer (It should be pretty much smooth) it should also be kinda snug when you push it in (As you tighten the axle nut, it will push the washer in deeper creating more force. I always apply a little grease to the Cone Washer before reinstall. As for getting a new one, the Dealer can get them. Rockauto.com might have them as well. As for Wheel bearings, you can probably do it your self. A shop is gonna cost you a load if you take the car there. Its like $70/hr at most places. I guess you can tap the old and new bearings in. I know when I did it on an XT, there was a lot of pressure applied before the bearing popped loose. I used a 12ton press and a large socket to press it out and in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Also, after install the Cone Washer, there should be a flat washer that goes in front of it, and then the Axle nut. That flat washer only goes one way, as it is not totally flat. They have a slight curvature to them, most have an etching that says "Out" on it, that would face outwards toward you. When you put that washer on, you want it bowing outwards against the Cone washer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 Also, after install the Cone Washer, there should be a flat washer that goes in front of it, and then the Axle nut. That flat washer only goes one way, as it is not totally flat. They have a slight curvature to them, most have an etching that says "Out" on it, that would face outwards toward you. When you put that washer on, you want it bowing outwards against the Cone washer. Ooooh I might have not put that guy on wrong. So you are saying i want it so that the cocave part is facing towards the cone washer? like this <) and not like this <( ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Ooooh I might have not put that guy on wrong. So you are saying i want it so that the cocave part is facing towards the cone washer? like this <) and not like this <( ? Yep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Any visible wear on the cone washer is unacceptable. If in doubt replace it. Dealer only. Bearings will not always have visible play. If you suspect them pull the axle and check for roughness. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Just out of curiosity, how many miles are on your car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 Just out of curiosity, how many miles are on your car? 176k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 176k Ah, indeed things could be pretty worn depending on vehicle service history and treatment. Granted mileage isn't always factor on when and if parts fail, I was just curious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 Ah, indeed things could be pretty worn depending on vehicle service history and treatment. Granted mileage isn't always factor on when and if parts fail, I was just curious. The guy that i got it from only had it like a month and bought it from his elderley neighbor who got it maintained at the subaru dealership her whole life. and he realized he just didnt need it, when he already had 2 subaru sti's. ahahaha so i feel like stuff shoulda been taken car of more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Ha, you would think. But in the real world, the dealer most likely will over look a lot of things (Not bashing anyone who does work as a Service tech) but we all know there are techs at the dealer who will glance at stuff without deeper inspection, and then the non-mechanically inclined owner doesn't understand why their Subaru with only 58,000 has stalled at the stop light from a failed timing belt due to a seized tensioner bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosen Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 Ahahaha. So I was thinking, wouldn't it be cheaper and easier to just get an old hub/wheel bearing assembly off an old subaru? Rather than taking mine completely apart and piecing it back together? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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