jpwoody Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Went out and got one 4 20 bucks...we'll see if this is the fix...to be continued...(had the original them. go out on a road trip...got an Autozone replacement...seemed to do fine on the way home...but acting finicky now...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpwoody Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 Ok...here's the situation.....put in new Xantstant Theromostat, have replaced the cap, waterpump...flushed the block and the radiator...radiator 10 months old...no leaks any where, no smoke or water out tailpipe...no water in oil...no gases in coolant....I believe I've "burped' the system correctly....idles no problem runs awesome...overheats when I drive it ONLY when I test drive it on the road...and get on it to run...shut it down, to cool off....restart and drive back home...and it reheated on the way home again...let it idle, and it went back to good temp....WTH!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 wondering if the TB could be slipping on the water pump. Maybe see what happens with out the t'stat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpwoody Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 would the pump pulley slip on the belt?...just redid the timing belt and when it was off...checked the pum protation...worked freely Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 What is your coolant mix ratio? Double check your burp by lifting the font of the car, or parking it on a hill nose up, a curb would be plenty high. Crushed hose? if they are not on straight it could have gotten kinked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpwoody Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 Yep...checked the hoses...no kinks...my driveway is on an incline(pain chasing stuff down the driveway sometimes)...so, thanks for the suggestions...coolant is 50/50 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Sounds like classic HG failure to me. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpwoody Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 Well General...at least you weren't scared to tell me...lol...This outta be a new experience...never done it b 4...always said I wanted new challenges after I hit 60...but ...DAMN!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Whats outside temperature? Does the heat work good? Like if you sat there long enough you'd literally cook good? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Sounds like classic HG failure to me. GD it sorta does, but wouldn't he be losing coolant? maybe i missed that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpwoody Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 82 today in So. Cal, and I made Top Ramen for lunch from the heater...it works... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 would the pump pulley slip on the belt?...just redid the timing belt and when it was off...checked the pum protation...worked freely Suppose the tensioner is bad? Did you get a new one or re-use yours? How did you compress it? just a w.a.g. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpwoody Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 Re-used the tensioner....compressed it in my vice, 1/2 turn every minute till compressed, put pin in it...and it appeared to expand properly. Can I remover the belts, balancer, and timing covers and run the motor with the TB on to verify pump operation without any damage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 82 today in So. Cal, and I made Top Ramen for lunch from the heater...it works... Car food. Head gasket. My other option was a plugged bypass system, but it's too hot there for that to matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpwoody Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 Next gonna test it with a Combustion Vapor Tester and verify the appent demise of my HG's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 If you have compressed air (~100 psi) you can hook it to each cylinder and watch the radiator overflow when the bubbles start coming out. I've done that a few times, most recently on my wagon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpwoody Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 nice idea....I'll give that a shot too...never hurts to double check.....If I have to do the gaskets, is there a good procedure write up anywhere besides a Chilton manual?... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Yep, throw away the Chilton manual. Just kidding they are helpful, but wouldn't be my last stop for information. The FSM is so easily available for these cars, makes no sense to use anything else. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ head gaskets on the Ej22 CAN be done with the engine in the car, but it's a tight fit getting the heads in and out because the bolts can;t slide all the way out of the block. Pull the engine out if you can, makes it easier to work on and clean the block. Have the heads milled flat. Autozone carries Felpro head gaskets for $19.99 each. Cheapest price of anywhere that I've seen, and the Felpro is THE EXACT SAME gasket that you would get at a dealer. Even has the FHI swish logo stamped in it. Less than half the price. You don't need new head bolts but the old ones can generally benefit from being run through a die/ wire brushed to get any crud out of the threads. If you have a tap that's the right size chase the threads in the block as well. Dunk the bolts in fresh oil when reassembling. Follow the Torque spec for the head bolts in the FSM. Ask questions if you need to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Symptoms are usually going to include pushing coolant into the overflow bottle when it overheats. Often overflowing the bottle. It's generally not that difficult to bleed the air from these. One of two things is happening - bad thermostat or bad head gaskets. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpwoody Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 THANK YOU FAIRTAX4ME!!!....awesome docs for my torture ahead...lol...Got the tools ...but the problem is, I've always been a belts, pads, starters alternators kinda guy...this is uncharted territory for me...and theeyes don't work so good anymore...lol...wish me luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpwoody Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 Gen. Diso...the thrm is a brand new Xact Stant ...I'm gonna be doing my 1st set of heads ever in my life...lol...the economy got me...lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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