whitetm Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 ABS control module.Ohmmeter will likely show low resistance between the power input and ground Disconnecting each wheel sensor is a waste of time. Well put my Fluke on it grd and #1 pin and got continuity ( meter 0 out) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetm Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 I was just wondering if someone has a schematic of the ABS control module, so I might see which component went bad in it ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetm Posted April 12, 2012 Author Share Posted April 12, 2012 ABS control module.Ohmmeter will likely show low resistance between the power input and ground Disconnecting each wheel sensor is a waste of time. I think that the abs control unit must have a short in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 With the ABS module unplugged, check for continuity to ground from Fuse 18. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetm Posted April 12, 2012 Author Share Posted April 12, 2012 With the ABS module unplugged, check for continuity to ground from Fuse 18. It show continuity still, but it doesn't blow the fuse when I turn the key on. But if I plug the abs control module in and then turn the key on, the fuse blows in a heart beat. It seems to be pointing to the abs control module to be the problem, but I could be wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 Check the wire harness near the connector, make sure there are no bare wires touching the body. If that checks out good, replace the module. I don't think I've ever read of one of these going bad, so a junkyard part is almost a guaranteed fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetm Posted April 14, 2012 Author Share Posted April 14, 2012 Check the wire harness near the connector, make sure there are no bare wires touching the body. If that checks out good, replace the module. I don't think I've ever read of one of these going bad, so a junkyard part is almost a guaranteed fix. My Nephew told me that the original issue was, on his way home from work one day he lost all power. When he pulled off to the side of the road, he popped the hood and noticed the 1.25 (45 amp)fuse link had blown. So he made a jumper wire out of 10 gage wire and installed it to get himself home. Thats when every thing went wrong. Pretty soon the transmission would sift, then the abs light came on, his head lights blew and pretty soon the battery was going dead. Well when I got the car to find out what happened. First the alternator wasn't putting anything out, so it was replaced it and the battery. I also replace the fuse-link. Started the car and the fuse link was fine. Second replaced the head lights, now they were fine. Third, I opened the trans mission control module and found that there was a blown capacitor and 2 power transistors blew, so I replaced that module, the car shifts fine now. The last thing is the abs module problem to fix. The only thing that I can think that would do all of this is, the alternator must have went ballistic and over amped/voltage to take out the fuse-link and when my nephew put the jumper in-place of the fuse-link it must have created all of these other issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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