Front Brake Caliper rebuild????

[UMT]

Yeah, if they're that cheap then I will definitely just buy

new rotors and thanks for the advice.

But I had always been of the impression that you needed

to buy "better" or Sube-type OEM on brakes cause Subarus

are picky when they come to brakes?

And what brand/type (ceramic, metal etc) of pads and rotors did you get?

Thanks all.

Dan

 

I've got 202,000 miles on my car so I'm not blowing money on the most expensive parts I can find. I've never had any problem with parts from reputable manufacturers.

 

I used ceramic pads, the cheapest ones Daves Discount Auto online had. Raybestos on the calipers... They work great. Maybe the pads won't last as long as some more expensive brands, but pads are easy to replace.

 

UMT

[1997reduxe]

You got the rotors there too?

What brand?

Thanks

That so great. Def. will save a lot of money.

I think that Dave's is even better than rockauto, at least for brakes.

[UMT]

You got the rotors there too?

What brand?

Thanks

 

No, I originally got the rotors from Auto Zone. I don't remember which brand but they were only about 22.00 a piece...

 

Try DavesDiscountAutoParts... Fast delivery, knowledgeable people on the phone, great prices.

 

I live out in the sticks, so I have to factor in driving expense when trying to find parts.

[UMT]

A one man bleeder would be good.(the simple one, just a hose and valve on end)

Make sure you remove the pins, clean and relube.

Antiseize on the bolts.

Should be good to go.

 

O.

 

Here, here.

 

By the way, I bought a 'one man bleeder' from Harbor Freight. Cheap but works good. Creates a vacuum, loosen the bleeder and air/fluid flows into a bottle. Check it out if you don't have someone handy to pump brakes for you. Make sure you bleed them brakes!

[1997reduxe]

I love this website.

Gotta donate more to it when I get my next "freedom" (ie, unemployment) check. And get Shawn to update my donor status, which I already am.

 

I might get the bleeder, but I found my "Suby Savior" recently here north of Houston to do my car labor for me.

I haven't as yet asked him about the brakes, but as an example he's gonna replace my inner AND outer tie rods, AND lower ball joints for 84 bucks.

 

And he's so honest. I originally asked him to just quote price to do inner TRs and joints, and he said 84, then when I reasked about inner and outer and joints, expecting at least some more of a cost, he said "Oh, I should have said that included both."

 

Amazing. Saving my life right now, I'll tell you...

[unibrook]

Can I resurrect this thread to ask something?

I'm considering replacing the front calipers on

my 95 Legacy wagon 2.2.

There is definite brake vibration in front right,

and as car has 180k on it I figured to possibly replace

disks/calipers/pads and give it a new brake lifetime.

That is if the local repair/machine shop says they can't

turn the rotors. If they can I might go for caliper rebuild

for now if they think feasible.

 

But some of the loaded caliper sets say they come "with

bracket", some don't mention it.

Should I try to get ones that have the bracket, or if they don't,

get a bracket myself, or doesn't this really matter?

Are there any other parts you might replace when replacing

rotors pads and calipers? (Other than brake fluid...)

Thanks again.

Dan

 

If I detected wobble/pulsation in the brakes before redoing them, I would assume at least one rotor was warped, so I would replace it....since they are fairly cheap....and some shops can't/won't/don't do a good job grinding them down for much $ cheaper. Pads I just went cheap, since they are easy to replace later if you want to do so. My reman caliper came with a bracket, but if it had not, I would just have used the new caliper with the old bracket cleaned up. Hope that helps.

[1997reduxe]

Yes, thanks.