Gen1 Camber. A new idea?......

[Dirk]

I'm having a hard time visualizing this idea but I think it may work.

 

If one were to put spacers inbetween the crossmember and the body......

 

At first I thought this might lift the car but I believe now that it would in effect simply lower the engine and transmission assembly thus relieving the driveshaft angles and also affecting the camber as if the car had been lowered.

 

Does this make sense?

Edited April 13, 2012 by Dirk

[Rust]

Seems worth a try. The way I view the issue is that the control arms need to be pushed out about an inch to reduce the positive camber. Lowering the whole assembly may do it.

[nipper]

Spacers wont lower the engine and suspension, it will just raise the body higher. This is how outbacks that were based on Legacies are lifted.

[Subafreak]

But outbacks had taller struts to go with the blocks between the subframes. Without the struts it will just lower the engine and trans.

[Dirk]

But outbacks had taller struts to go with the blocks between the subframes. Without the struts it will just lower the engine and trans.

 

This is what I think. Just it is hard to visualize on the car.

 

Nipper: Interesting... So it would be possible to lift the body like this without altering the wheel geometry.

[nipper]

This is what I think. Just it is hard to visualize on the car.

 

Nipper: Interesting... So it would be possible to lift the body like this without altering the wheel geometry.

 

 

Depending upon the year, yes.

 

I can confirm this, as I have a 2" lift on Blu. I just needed to get camber bolts to give a little cushion room on the front end. Others have done this lift without them.

[Dirk]

Seems worth a try. The way I view the issue is that the control arms need to be pushed out about an inch to reduce the positive camber. Lowering the whole assembly may do it.

 

I lengthend my control arms a while back. It corrected my wheel geometry nicely. However it does have its own issues. Steering tie rods are only just long enough to allow for this. Also, my DOJ's are perilously close to the edge of their cups.

 

I think I might revert back to stock size control arms and give this method a go. Especially since it will reduce the angle of the half shafts.

 

Will let you know how I get on.

[DR DLEX]

have you ever thought of pulling the strut towers toward each other.I have seen picts.of Gen 1 rally cars with strut braces with adjustments.Or slotting the strut holes for lateral adjustment. The idea of spacing the engine crossmember may have an unwanted stress-pull on the struts,towers,and ball-joint.

[Dirk]

IT IS DONE!

 

I left the lengthend controll arms in. I installed 30mm steel packers inbetween the crosmember and body with new high stensile steel bolts.

 

The effect is very pleasing.

 

I had to adjust the steering column and pitch stopper to allow for the drop. This was not a hassle.

 

The angle of the half shafts looks much more sensible. The steering geometry has not changed much but the camber is certainly better.

 

Since I had a little wear on the outside of my tires I have not bothered to change the wheel alignment yet. I will keep an eye on the tire wear.

 

The car handles well. The DOJ's are much cooler to touch after a long drive which I am most happy about.

 

Only thing that pisses me off is that the DOJ boot split a couple of days before I made the mod. Wish I had had spares on hand at the time.

 

I spoke to my mechanic about the mod. He seems unconcerned about it being a problem for the next Warrent of fitness. (MOT or what ever you call it in the US)

 

ALL GOOD!

 

P.S. The bolts that came out were M10 fine. The bolts I bought from the engineers were M10 standard. Should I order some M10 fine?