Skylar Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 Just picked up a 6" sjr lift kit, Thanks to Soobiedoo ! Anyways, im just trying to figure out everything that needs to be done with the 6" lift and also see if i could possibly get some tips about when installing the lift. I have the steering extension piece so thats covered. It should work in theory, it came off an 87 mines an 88 . What size pieces of steel do i need to extend the 4wd lever and shift lever ? And how many inches should they be extended ? Ill probably be extending the brakes lines and going with steel braided, unless i can get enough slack out of the stock lines ? Also, I know that i need to get longer radiator hoses. do they make universal ones i can just cut or do i order some for a different rig ? I think thats all the ?'s i have for right now, if i come up with anything else ill ask. Thanks ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylar Posted April 14, 2012 Author Share Posted April 14, 2012 67 views and no one can help a brotha out ?! Sheesh ! Buuuump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Ive never modified the linkage, will just need a short s shaped piece of flatbar with 2 holes in it to drop it down a bit,' , I free the ends of the brakelines on the body and alow them to be droped, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylar Posted April 14, 2012 Author Share Posted April 14, 2012 Ahh ok, so no need to extend the levers ? Just drop em down ? And if I put the lift on before dropping it down will it damage any of the stock linkages ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 You are gonna want to extend the linkages. 6" is alot of lift......your gonna need to modify the shifting. If not, the D/R lever won't even make it into the cabin. Best thing to do, is disconnect the linkages first. Install the lift, then figure out the linkage once the trans is in place Cut and weld your linkage to be longer so it makes it into the cab. While at it, you can cut the bracket off the lever, and weld it back on about 3/4 inch higher up on the shifter rod. This makes the throws shorter, so you won't have to move the top of the rod so far to get the shift. Make sure that whatever you do to extend the 4wd-D/R linkage does not create any twisting of the shaft. If that 4wd-D/R selector rod is twisted while shifting from 2wd to 4wd, it can blow up the aluminum interlock collar that holds the shift fork to the rod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylar Posted April 16, 2012 Author Share Posted April 16, 2012 Sweet, thanks for the tips Gloyale . I need to learn how to weld lol or have a buddy come over with one . Ill probably start throwing on the lift within the next week or two (hopefully) Need to get my welding situation figured out before i start tearing everything apart ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
one eye Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 Ive got 2 rear struts if you need them then we could hand down the 2" lift to the next guy............... Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylar Posted April 23, 2012 Author Share Posted April 23, 2012 Ive got 2 rear struts if you need them then we could hand down the 2" lift to the next guy............... Jeff That'd be awesome, I was gonna go to the junkyard and pull some. And yeah can definitely hand em down to the next guy and bump up the free 2" lift thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
one eye Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Cool give me a heads up once you get started on that lift and Ill hook ya up with those and we can just swap them............ BTW does Roger still got those wheels and tires of mine? Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylar Posted April 23, 2012 Author Share Posted April 23, 2012 Cool give me a heads up once you get started on that lift and Ill hook ya up with those and we can just swap them............ BTW does Roger still got those wheels and tires of mine? Jeff Will do ... would you guys up there be willing to give me a hand on installing the lift ? Say as a little fun project or something haha and yeah I still have em they've been sitting in my garage . I actually just tossed em on my truck cause I thought they looked good so I hope you don't mind me running em for awhile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
one eye Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 Will do ... would you guys up there be willing to give me a hand on installing the lift ? Say as a little fun project or something haha and yeah I still have em they've been sitting in my garage . I actually just tossed em on my truck cause I thought they looked good so I hope you don't mind me running em for awhile nah thats cool.................... Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylar Posted April 24, 2012 Author Share Posted April 24, 2012 Lol alright . I can give em back if ya want, I don't mind . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 lets see some pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylar Posted May 9, 2012 Author Share Posted May 9, 2012 Haven't gotten started yet :/ just got the shocks the other day from Jeff and I just got done painting everything so hopefully this weekend ! Also I just noticed after I got done painting that the trans X blocks are different sizes, Scott do you know if one goes on a certain side or if it matters ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylar Posted May 10, 2012 Author Share Posted May 10, 2012 Ok so about to start tearing things apart .... Where is a good place to put some jackstands lol I seen that michael apple put some right behind/ underneath the rear doors but that seems sketchy .. there's no where really to put some since its all a uni body . Also im gonna be doing the rear first, do i need to undo my brake lines ? I really have no idea where to start im kind of just eyeing things out and putting 2 an 2 together on where the blocks go and what not . Any tips or directions on what i should start with first for a easy install would be greatly appreciated ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 I was lucky and did my motor swap while doing my lift. I was using a lift kit that didn't extend the rear subframe so I lifted the rear by the subframe I'm pretty sure the SJR kit does require subframe removal. I lifted mine by the unibody like this. it all worked out okay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylar Posted May 10, 2012 Author Share Posted May 10, 2012 yeah the Sjr kit requires you to drop the rear subframe, 2 blocks on each side and the diff plate . Heres how it sits right now: I just dont want to start tearing things apart and have the rear subframe and diff fall on me and idk if ill be able to throw my tires back on after i do the rear because of how low it sits right now.. Or would everything stay in place if I unbolted everything except for the big bolt that holds the diff up towards the frame, i think its like a 22mm and it sits right on top of the diff . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 x2 Anywhere along the pinch seam works for jackstands, but I'd turn yours 90*, so it hooks the pinch seam. On the front I know you can cut the brakeline holder on the strut instead of taking the line off(then bleeding the brakes) and fishing it through the holder. I don't think the back is long enough, but you may be able to bend the hardlines around to make it work. When I lifted mine, I got stainless braided lines made and if you can afford it, I recommend that. They cost me $140, but my brakes are WAY more solid..solid enough that I don't see the need for rear disks. Lift the rear first, the front is harder, but is easier to do with the suspension somewhat relaxed when the rear is at the same height. I used just the sharp turn in a stock radiator hose for the driver side radiator hose and just picked one off the wall to make the other side work. If you come up north sometime soon you can have my old hoses, I'm doing an EJ swap right now and don't need them. Don't forget the pitch rod, I used 1/2" mild steel rod to extend it. I unbolted the rear subframe and used a floorjack to help hold it in place while I bolted it back together, its not that heavy Josh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylar Posted May 10, 2012 Author Share Posted May 10, 2012 Ok cool ill lift the car back up and turn the jacks 90* . And yeah i was thinking about getting some braided lines, moneys a little tight at the moment so we'll have to see. Who did you have make the lines for you ? And darnit ! i was just up at jeffs on saturday, coulda snagged those too but oh well .. and ok thanks for the fyi, i figured it wasnt too heavy. Also, what's the pitch rod lol ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 I had Greenshields Industrial Supply make them in Everett. I probably could have found a cheaper place, but I wanted it moving asap. Any industrial supply place that make hydraulic hoses for equipment should be able to hook you up. Some places may tell you they can't make them for a car, because some of the hoses aren't DOT approved. They've asked in the past and I always tell them its for a offroad rig that doesn't go onroad. The pitch rod is the mount that attaches to the firewall and the top of the motor/trans. Its right in the center of the motor on top. Josh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylar Posted May 10, 2012 Author Share Posted May 10, 2012 Ok cool well ill look around and call some places. Do they make lines specifically fit for our subarus that screw right in ? And oh yes the pitch rod on top lol ! ok ill make sure to extend that didnt know i had to . So for the rear should i just disconnect the brake lines and start throwing the lift on and try to work something out from there ? I know for the front im gonna have to disconnect the steering shaft, and shift levers before i start lifting and the radiator hoses. And try to see how much slack i can get from the front brake lines but i might just disconnect em . Goddamn there's SO much more involved with a 6" kit but im ready for it ! lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 No, the whole purpose of going to an Industrial Supply place is because they make custom lines. They should have all the fittings to screw right into the car and even use the stock brakeline holder in the front, just bring your stock ones in and have them make some that are longer. For a 6" lift, have them add 6", just make sure you do it on the correct side of the holder. Pretty much, take it apart and put it back together if your changing the brakelines. Remember to pull your clutch fan on the motor, all grounds(don't forget the one on top of the tranny), vacuum lines, coil wire and your heater hoses. I also diconnected the engine and dizzy harness Josh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylar Posted May 13, 2012 Author Share Posted May 13, 2012 Well I got the rear done, it took me a majority of the day but I was by myself . Got somethings taken off the front end, vac lines, pitch rod, clutch fan, coil wire. Gonna be dropping the radiator and unhooking everything else tomorrow . Here's some pics, I love that diff drop ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylar Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 Well i got everything done, got new rad hoses, heater hoses, and reconnected everything. I've got some camber issues that need to be worked out. I took it out of the garage and rolled it back an forth a couple times but it didnt seem to do anything . dont think ill need to modify the shifter linkage, but i will need to extend the 4wd lever an inch or two . What do you guys do with the plate that is underneath the levers ? Right now its just kinda hanging there cause i had to take that 12mm bolt off so it could drop down and it was slightly rubbing on the driveline when i drove it back an forth .. I also cant put my muffler back on to the mid-pipe. the mustache bar is getting in the way and wont let the muffler drop down enough to bolt onto the midpipe .. :-\ Also i think i need to take the steering linkage off and turn it 180* because when the steering wheel is directly centered the wheels are turned to the left but when i turn it a half turn and its upside down the wheels are straight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 dont think ill need to modify the shifter linkage, but i will need to extend the 4wd lever an inch or two . What do you guys do with the plate that is underneath the levers ? Right now its just kinda hanging there cause i had to take that 12mm bolt off so it could drop down and it was slightly rubbing on the driveline when i drove it back an forth .. ] You need to bolt it to the underside of the tunnel. I've got 3" square block on mine. However, my shifter is cut and extended about 1" between the pivot and the linkage. This makes a short throw shifter. Before doing that the shifter was hitting the edges of the hole in the body, it had to travel too far. Also, I'm not using the 5spd D/R 4wd lever, I'm using the EA81 4spd 4wd shifter. The 5spd 4wd shifter is mounted to the base of the shifter....so I'm not sure it will work unless you can get that plate up into the cab again......which definately requires some extension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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