AK GL Turbo Help

[tundrabrat]

I figure it is easier to start a thread where people can offer advice instead of me creating a different thread everytime I have a quesiton or issue. NOTE: I will only post what I can't find after an extensive search.

 

Two issues currently...

 

1) Engine cut off/Studder intermitantly. I have gotten severl good responses (from electrical to vacuum) but still having the issue. I think I just need to change fuel filters.

 

2) The air suspension was removed and swapped with the suspention of a later model wagon. I'm now dealing with major rake (the back has 4-5" of clearance, from 1-2). I have RX springs coming for the front, any recommendations on how to get the back down, I assume unlike my BRAT this isn't adjustable.

 

Thanks... I'm sure I'll have more questions to come.

[AKghandi]

You can flip the rear strut tops to lower the back by about an inch maybe more

Look for lowering ea82s thers alot of info there. theres probably a write up about it. I think you flip them and switch sides so they line up. and your rear struts may have adjusting sleeves to raise/lower about an inch they came in 85-86 i think

 

 

Have you been able to repeat the studder on purpose or is it completely random?

 

 

Filter makes sense..less fuel then ecm reads lean then hits over boost cutout

The only hole i canfind in that therory is it would be alot more frequent and boost cut in my car is more like a bucking it doesnt go dead for any amount of time i just let off the gas some and keep going(no it doesnt over boost anymore)

What does it do under boost? Any pinging?

 

but the maf still has my vote D.C subaru has one of those on the shelf for your car $75. i know be ause he tried to sell me it but mines the hot wire style.

 

and once again nother random idea how bout the wiring harness it runs behind the fender that was replaced maybe somethongs grounding out?

Edited April 12, 2012 by AKghandi

[tundrabrat]

You can flip the rear strut tops to lower the back by about an inch maybe more

Look for lowering ea82s thers alot of info there. theres probably a write up about it. I think you flip them and switch sides so they line up. and your rear struts may have adjusting sleeves to raise/lower about an inch they came in 85-86 i think

 

I'll take a look at the top hats, maybe they put them in wrong when it was converted. I'm not trying to modify it or lower it per say, I just want a factory ride hight and this thing is REALLY high in back.

 

Have you been able to repeat the studder on purpose or is it completely random?

 

This morning was the worst. I started it up and it grabbed 1200 rpm right away, I went inside to let it warm up and when I came out it had died. When I went to restart it, it would start up and die immediately. When I finally got it started (had to keep my foot on the gas) idled at 650 rpm until it warmed up. Then for the next 5 mins I would get gas cut out. This was the first day I had not plugged in the car overnight.

 

Filter makes sense..less fuel then ecm reads lean then hits over boost cutout

The only hole i canfind in that therory is it would be alot more frequent and boost cut in my car is more like a bucking it doesnt go dead for any amount of time i just let off the gas some and keep going(no it doesnt over boost anymore)

What does it do under boost? Any pinging?

 

It's not happening in boost.

 

and once again nother random idea how bout the wiring harness it runs behind the fender that was replaced maybe somethongs grounding out?

 

You may have something here... I just noticed that it doesn't have a fender liner.

 

I'll go deep into it this weekend.

[AKghandi]

it really sounds exactly like what mine was doing when my intake pipe was cracked

 

 

when you shift theres no BOV or recirc so the air goes back through the turbo and closes the maf pushing the pipe off Causing a cutout till the turbo sucks the pipe back down and opens the maf.

Just a theory but its airtight

 

 

It stumped me cause i sprayed all arond there and the idle didnt change till i pushed down on it and the idle went normal

 

Dont you wish you had a spare ej20t layig around? Lol

[MilesFox]

maybe you have 2wd struts s they are longer than 4wd struts, being that the attachment points on the trailing arm is lower on a 2wd than a 4wd.

 

a 2wd rear coilover in a 4wd car will give it lift.

[Mechanical_misfit]

..Or perhaps you have rear adjustable struts and they are adjusted all the way up?

[tundrabrat]

maybe you have 2wd struts s they are longer than 4wd struts, being that the attachment points on the trailing arm is lower on a 2wd than a 4wd.

 

a 2wd rear coilover in a 4wd car will give it lift.

 

This is an interesting theory, are the springs the same size?

[MilesFox]

springs are the same, but the 2wd is longer below the perch.

[tundrabrat]

springs are the same, but the 2wd is longer below the perch.

 

Good to know... are the front struts different between fwd and 4wd as well?

 

On a seperate note, the studder/fuel cut off hasn't shown itself over the weekend...bad gas? Did I blow something through the filter? Did something dry out? Ugh, I hate not being able to identify what happened.

[tundrabrat]

My into doesn't work and when I turn off my wipers they don't return to home position. Is this a switch or motor issue?

[tundrabrat]

OK... the "studder/shudder" is back but I believe I can give a much better idea of symptoms.

 

The car feels like the fuel is cutting out at lower RPMs (just getting started and cruising down the road) under 3000rpm. When I get on it (put my foot in it), it has plenty of power and no studder.

 

As an example: driving through my neighbor hood in 1st and second gear under 25mph I get hesitation/power cuts out for a second or 2. When I'm running trough my gears and on the highway, no problems

 

As I said, I believe it is a fuel issue but don't know where to start (filters, pump, lines, injectors) etc.

 

Need Help on this...

[AKghandi]

i dont think its a fuel supply issue but maybe a fuel control issue?

if it were a supply issue i think the problems would be more apparent a higher rpms especially in boost

 

 

i wonder if its that egr control solenoid. i know when you push up on the egr valve the rpm will drop. could be the issue. maybe its getting vac when its not supposed to and it goes away during boost? did this problem show itself before you replaced that?. could be worth it to put the old one back together and put it back and see if the problem goes away. maybe with a peice of metal tubing inside to reinforce the break and then some epoxy.

 

 

i think retracing your steps may lead to the answer because the car was running very very well. as close to new as an 85 can run

 

so its gotta be something simple. but then again the car sat for 16 years so all the rubber bits are suspect. like the egr diaphragm and the fpr diaphragm vac lines fuel lines etc. but i think if it was fpr you would be running very rich or very lean.

 

thats the problem with that wagon im working on. bad fpr its just gouting fuel out of the vac line.hard to start wont idle and its hard to rev but once you put your foot down it goes like a scalded ape.