Vin 4 vs vin 5

[thedoctor]

I've got my ea81 1.8l engine out to replace head gaskets, clutch, valve job, and a few other things. One of the other things is a water pump and possibly an oil pump.

 

Rockauto specifies vin 4 on one of their water pumps. What does that mean? my vin is JF1AM42B8DB410009 is that vin 4 or 5?

 

Also the engine as 250k on it. I'm thinking new oil pump. yes? I do have the oil pump kit, o-rings etc. BUT I can't find a new oil pump. Autozone doesn't have it and RockAuto doesn't either. SO I have a spare engine and the pump on that one "looks" better, but it has the big sensor unit that goes with an oil pressure gauge. Mine has the small one. Can I just plug in the big one or should I swap sensors.

[Mykeys Toy]

The difference between vin 4 and 5 is the carb mostly. One is the hitachi and the other is Carter/Weber aka feedback carb. The water pump looks the same on all my cars and have both vin codes. The oil pump difference is none, it is a matter of idiot light and guage one mounts horizontally and the other is vertical. The gauge type will plug in from the bottom and the other to the left side if looking at it from the front of the car. If say your other pump has the plug that fits the side and need it from the bottom remove the bolt and put it into the other hole change the switch and your done.

[thedoctor]

Thanks, but I still don't understand the vin thing. Could you tell from my vehicle identification number?

 

Also, I am considering a weber 32/36 manual choke. I do have a hitachi manifold on my spare engine. I have been running the Carter/Weber. (what do you mean by feedback carb?)

 

Biggest problem is hard starts in cold weather. And I do want good gas mileage. Would you suggest switching or keeping the carb I have?

[Mykeys Toy]

The carter weber you are currently running is a feedback ( ECS controlled ) one barrel carb. The Weber should if tuned properly will get the similar mileage to the one barrel you are using as long as you keep outta the skinny pedal. I have been in the process of the same swap and I did have to get a hitachi intake to do it. I am still not done but I have AC stuff and other crud I have no idea what to do with.. So I am not the best source for info but I can tell you what I do know.. I believe vin 5 is hitachi and 4 is the one barrel feedback carter/weber. I may have them backwards but one way or another thats pretty much it the carb. I did not have a problem with cold weather start so I cannot say there may be other options to resolve that issue but as far as I am concerned the 32/36 is an upgrade for both mileage and performance. I would see what can be done to alleviate that issue until you actually have problems with the carb. Then do the swap but I may be influenced by my inability to get my own swap running.

 

Mike

[thedoctor]

OK thanks. I think I will remain patient and put the carter/weber back on when I put the engine back in the car next week. In the meantime I will search for a used Weber 32/36 DGV to rebuild.

 

What do you know about getting rid of environmental controls. I have run across threads that mention this as though it were a routine modification. EGR gone, etc. I like the idea of a really simple machine, which is why I would go for the manual choke.

[Mykeys Toy]

I am only sure of the charcoal cannister but that will need to stay until you actually do the weber swap. The egr is easy if you have aa piece of metal a geinder amd a drill. Just block it off aand use the old gasket. The rest at least in my car is confusing and my maajor set back.