got my swap

[Recian]

I went to the yard today and got my 5-speed swap, all clutch components and brake lines, speedo/clutch cables, 5-speed awd trans and linkages. It was a fight from 8am to 2:30. They closed at 3 but I managed to get it. My bro couldnt go and the wife wasnt strong enough to help so I had to haul it across the scales by myself and it was heavier than I expected but I strapped some seatbelts to it and wrapped them around my shoulders and neck and managed it. Didnt have to pull the rear diff since it was a 4.111. This was the only car in the yard with it and it was rusty as hell which is what presented the issues. Doner was a 93 legacy. I was going to pull the diff since it was a legacy but I saw shiny and wiped off a subaru tag that said the p/n and "GEAR RATIO: 4.111"

 

Im curious if the auto/manual crank bolts are different? the flex plate is thinner than the flywheel so i assume the m/t ones are longer. Any ideas?

 

Tomorrow i'll begin tearing my car apart to do the swap seeing as with a f****d trans it isnt doing me any good to drive right now. I'll keep this thread updated with pics and such if anyone else is interested

Edited April 28, 2012 by Recian

[jarl]

So... how much did you pay for all the components?

Please document your swap... I'm interested in the process and potential pitfalls

[Recian]

For my 95 impreza it was already awd auto so i got a legacy m/t awd with the same 4.111 gears. The yard i got it from has a saturday sale. $50 for whatever you can carry across the scale. I left the shifter, crossmember and rods attatched to the tranny so they were free. The shifter joint grommet is toast so neutral is sloppy. Ill replace that. Also before getting started shift all its gears and check the clutch make sure all the components work. Mine went into all gears beutifully. The gear oil in it looked brand new despite the case's dirtyness. I snagged the pedal assy, speedo cable, clutch cable, hill brake, all brake lines for the front end, and starter and put those in my bag. I rented a lift for $25 and got under the rusty as hell car to get the trans out. It turns out my girl was too weak to assist carrying the tranny. And i forgot to grab the flywheel and pressure plate to flywheel bolts since i cut my time close fighting a rusty car. So my totals so far:

2 entrys: $100

1 lift: $25

Clutch kit F1 stage 1: $150

Flywheel new Exedy: $75

Total as of today:$350

Looking back if i had known she couldnt help i could have saved $40 seeing as i had to carry the tranny myself. It is possible to strap it to your shoulders and carry it at your weist but i only recommend a big guy do this. Im 6'1" 260 no small guy and it was tough for me to carry it solo. It weighs less than an automatic but not by much. If you pull parts take pics of the doners vin plate. Itll make getting subaru oem parts easier. Today ill call subaru and update on my missing bolts and shifter joint.

[jarl]

The yard i got it from has a saturday sale. $50 for whatever you can carry across the scale

 

Sounds like a Chiropractor-sponsored event There should be someone taking pictures Still, you probably saved at least $150-$200 right there.

 

Please keep us posted

[doc526]

The shifter joint grommet is toast so neutral is sloppy.

 

Also make sure your return spring is in good shape. That can also cause sloppyness.

 

Good luck with the swap!

[Recian]

I ordered the linkage elbow, its retainer pin, and needed bolts today. Cost: ~$50. I was cutting my time so close i didnt bother with pics. Those would have been nice to have for the swap lol

[Recian]

I got my pedals and hill brake in last night. Took a few hours. Anyone before reaching this point i have advice. Order a new brake switch ahead of time if yours hasnt been replaced b4. Bot mine and my junkyard one shattered as soon as i went to plug them in. They turned to dust in my hand. Also remove the computers. Its possible to swap without doing so but its much easier. I learned the hard way.

Pedals PITA FACTOR: 6 this is due mostly to the awkward angles youll have to bend to put these in and line up the brake master cylinder pin while aligning the clutch cable.

Hill brake PITA FACTOR: 7 i give this rating only due to the brake's cable. Routing it the original route under the intake can prove tricky without some long skinny pliers.

Hill brake isnt a necessity. Since the car had it and im anal about the look of originality i took it. Along with that ull need 3 lines

Master to hill brake

Hill brake to LF wheel

Hill brake to proportioning valve (RF strut tower)

[Recian]

Update as of this time. I've got my new clutch kit and my last suby parts should be coming from the dealer monday. I started the wiring. So far the weather hasnt let me do much but i've got the clutch switch tied into the inhibitor connector. Note here the inhibitor harness is white wrapped. It's long enough to be routed across the firewall and put through a grommet about 3" from the booster. Cut a hole and run it through. The white harness should reach into the car so it'll look somewhat factory. Someone ran fog light harness through that grommet on my car so i went ahead and used it lol. At this time i'm looking into my check connector. As another note the 1.8L and 2.2L connector terminals are NOT the same. I did some research and turns out terminal 49 is a straight wire from ecm to tcm nothing more. So im gona pull that terminal out, put it into #50 and ground it.