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MY quest for ground clearance. pics!


AKghandi
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so i picked this bumper off a dodge intrepid. i plan on cutting it in half so i get 2" blocks but im not sure its going to be strong enough as it is aluminum.

 

img0147bi.jpg

img0148wd.jpg

 

 

what do you guys think?

Edited by AKghandi
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Aha! How about this?:brow: its 2x2 and just about 1/8th thick, the thickness concerns me but im not going to do any serious offroading..i think it came from a stop sign ...not sure how it got there though.

 

img0149sx.jpg

img0150um.jpg

img0151vc.jpg

Edited by AKghandi
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yeah the only problem there is i have no idea where to go for steel tubing. ive been to lowes and homedepot neither of them have it..here in anchorage theres not alot of places that sell stuff like that. im going to go to a few more places tomorrow or find something that will work like a 4wheeler ramp or an old trailer. something 2x2 and atleast 1/8 thick

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yeah the only problem there is i have no idea where to go for steel tubing. ive been to lowes and homedepot neither of them have it..here in anchorage theres not alot of places that sell stuff like that. im going to go to a few more places tomorrow or find something that will work like a 4wheeler ramp or an old trailer. something 2x2 and atleast 1/8 thick

 

I am not sure if they sell to the public...

http://www.alaskasteel.com/contact.htm

 

Google search:popcorn:

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Do you have any welders around? They will have scrap and most likely will give you some. Or, oil patch /pipeline workers ....or any place that works on heavy equipment. where there are welders, there is steel

 

Oh yeah....boats and shipyards too

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I get stuff like that from a machine shop. My front lift blocks are 2x2 3/16" (pretty sure 3/16", not 1/4").

 

It's not something you want to underbuild though. Failing suspension is bad and dangerous. No reason to try to save a few bucks when the consequence is crashing your car due to failed suspension.

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You would be surprised how poorly a lift kit could be made, and still work just fine. I seen stacks of washers used :eek:

 

3/16" would be the optimal choice if you are buying it, if you are getting scrap for free, take what you can get as long as it'll work.

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Indeed it will probably cost about the same, cause once you start buying bolts, nuts and washers, you already into $30. Plus whatever the steel runs you, then the time it takes to weld up and drill.

 

I think this was a good route! One Eye is a good guy!

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Also, you don't want the rears to be actually 2" from hole to hole.

 

Since you aren't changing the pivot point, if you move the strut mount 2" down, you are actually pushing the wheel (6 inches further down the arm) down about 3 1/2" I see alot of these 2" lifts where the rear sticks up in the air too far, and the rear axles are maxed out.

 

When I do this type of lift, I make the rear straps with about 1-1/4" from hole to hole......which yeilds about 2" of actual lift.

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