thedoctor Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 The heads were worked over by a reputable machine shop and they passed their vacuum test. I'm sure I adjusted the valves properly. I enjoyed the progression of 180 degree turns. I did not screw up intake and exhaust. Still there is a muted knock coming from the right side of the engine and no start after re-installation and everything hooked up correctly. With the possible exception of the red wired device shown in the photo. This is something attached to the carbeaurator and I cant imagine it would prevent any and all firing of cylinders. I got nothing. Also, the fuel filter under the dash has no fuel in it at all. I tried pouring a little gas down the carb, but that did nothing. I thought of trying some ether to see if I get firing. To sum it up, I'm more than a little crestfallen after working on this all weekend and off and on for almost a month at a casual pace. I need to follow a logical path and I would like some advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 What car is this on? And what engine? Also: your picture didn't show up. Answers will be much more accurate with the model and engine info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedoctor Posted April 30, 2012 Author Share Posted April 30, 2012 Sorry. This is an EA81 powered 1983 DL with Carter-Weber single barrel carb. And on the right rear of that carb is the item shown in the photo. The red wire runs, almost as an add on, all by itself over to the coil. I thought it was fastened to the front post of the coil, but I must confess I did not document that. Everything else about the engine was re-installed properly. However, with the air pipes gone, I had to plug various things and I may have made a mistake on some vacuum connection. But would that prevent any firing at all? Here's the photo. Let me know if you recognize the device. I am more concerned about the muffled knocking sound and I am concerned about fuel delivery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 First question.Got spark? Item in question is the choke heater. Should not be powered from the coil.Might draw too much current and prevent proper spark. Check for spark after disconnecting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 First question.Got spark? Item in question is the choke heater. Should not be powered from the coil.Might draw too much current and prevent proper spark. Yeah, that should come from the Fuel Pump relay when Ig. pulse is sensed. If anything, it could work coming from the + side of coil. If you put it on the negative side it could be taking the pulse from the coil= no spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedoctor Posted April 30, 2012 Author Share Posted April 30, 2012 No spark at #3 plug. Resistance is ok across primary and secondary coil circuits. No spark at coil wire going into top of distributor. Meter shows 12 volts reaching the front terminal of the coil. See photo. I don't have a clue why there are 4 wires on the rear terminal of the coil. Replace coil? It just seems odd that it was working before I pulled and reinstalled the engine. Your thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 The Black/white wire with the red wrap is the +12 from IG switch. The Yellow wire with the yellow wrap is tach signal. The 2 wires going to the disty are also color coded similar, one is Pos, one is Neg. The rest it seems like someone has tapped into IG. switched power from there, which is a bad idea. If one of them is a condensor, it may be needed on the Positive side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 Yeah - you don't have the coil wires hooked up right I don't think. It's hard to tell what's going on with so many wires. There's usually 4 wires total - sometimes 5. Tach and distributor trigger on the negative, and then switched power and distributor power on the positive. And then sometimes a noise condensor thrown in.... but you don't need that except for radio interferance on the AM band. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedoctor Posted April 30, 2012 Author Share Posted April 30, 2012 The thing is I didn't touch these wires pre to post engine removal and reinstallation. But I do want to clean up any messes. I went ahead and got a new coil and will put that in tomorrow morning. I will take a better photo and post. Thank you for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedoctor Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share Posted May 1, 2012 I labeled some photos I took after pulling the coil up out of its bracket. Top View: What I was calling the front terminal is actually the negative and it only has one wire on it not going to the distributor but to what I have labeled cable Z. There is also a wire from the positve terminal labeled ??? going into Z... and Z goes I don't know where. The black wire with the yellow connector to positive goes to a capacitor and then to ground on the left head at the EGR pipe shield. Then there is the Lamp Cord, which receives a wire from the positive terminal and contributes a wire to the distributor after passing through a splice. I cannot begin to understand this. However, the car has run very well for almost all of the 150K I have put on it since 2004. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedoctor Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share Posted May 1, 2012 I guess I will get rid of the capacitor since it is for AM radio interference, which I don't care about. Q: What could possibly be going on with the Lamp cord? One wire to distributor and one wire to the positive terminal of coil? Q: Is cable Z the original feed from IG? My next step is to put in this new coil wired the same way as the old, except for capacitor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 The distributor is hooked up wrong. The red sheathed wire goes to the + terminal of the coil. The yellow sheathed wire goes to the - terminal of the coil. Leave the wires that are coming from "cable Z" alone - those are correct. Disconnect everything else except those two wires from cable Z and the two from the distributor - after you correct their placement. Then it should run. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedoctor Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share Posted May 1, 2012 I just came in from the garage to report that I got spark and THE ENGINE IS RUNNING! Somehow I did exactly what you said, but I just read your message now! I didn't like the looks of that Lamp Cord, whatever the hell that is. I got rid of it and just tested what was hot with ignition on, etc. Unbelievable. Hallelujah!:banana: Thank you. By the way the engine sounds really good. There is still that red carb heater wire. Where do you think I should hook that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 Where do you think I should hook that? Try hooking it up to a lamp! haha, sorry. I don't have any valuable input, just wanted to throw in a little humor. Glad to hear that the engine is running smooth! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.