Hints for getting 5spd/engine mated properly?

[bigB]

In the process of putting a different 5 spd into my '96 legacy and having a bugger of a time getting it to seat properly. Getting it right up to the alignment pins with about 3/4" gap between trans and engine. I think I have the clutch and input shaft mated just not the bearing. I have the engine lifted almost level or slightly rear down and have the trans. on a trans. jack. Any help appreciated. Getting frustrated over fighting with this over the last 2 days. Thanks.

[987687]

Once you have it so that the pins are touching, the splines are definitely mated. You can turn the engine with the tranny in gear. If the driveshaft or axles turn, you know it's mated, but it is.

I usually use sand paper/file/whatever to clean out the holes and the alignment pins, then coat them with anti-seize. That way they slide together easier, and don't stick in the future.

 

Still, sometimes it won't just slide together, I start tightening down the bolts one by one in an X pattern to suck the engine and trans together, nice and straight.

Whether that's proper or not, I've done it a lot of times with no issue.

[bigB]

Thanks, I'll give that a try.

[Ricearu]

i too have mated many a stubborn engine/trans together like that. sometimes you just gotta lube it up and force it in.

[987687]

i too have mated many a stubborn engine/trans together like that. sometimes you just gotta lube it up and force it in.

 

:brow:

[95legwagon]

i had the same issue..... i had my girl push the engine backas hard as she could while i was under the car pushing the tranny up and toward the engine....and voila! like a glove.....was veryy hard though....had to really muscle that sucker

[987687]

i had the same issue..... i had my girl push the engine backas hard as she could while i was under the car pushing the tranny up and toward the engine....and voila! like a glove.....was veryy hard though....had to really muscle that sucker

 

I don't want to break my back installing an engine. That's why I have hoists and tools. If it doesn't just go together, I use mechanical advantage. My wrench on the bellhousing bolts. I'd rather screw up a car than my back.

[Fairtax4me]

The pilot shaft may not be engaging the pilot bearing properly. When you put the clutch on did you center the disc or just let it hang by the pilot tool? The disc needs to be lifted a bit so it lines up straight. Otherwise the splines engage but the pilot shaft is too low to fit into the bearing.

[GeneralDisorder]

Always inspect/dress the input shaft and test fit the pilot to it prior to installing it in the flywheel. If you can get hold of an old input shaft from a 5 speed you can use it to make an alignment tool that's not a plastic POS.

 

Also - remove the dowel pins that get stuck in the engine and clean HALF of them. Put them back in the tranny with the clean side facing the engine. Also clean the dowel pin holes in the engine.

 

Last resort you can leave the pressure plate bolts loose and tighten them through the starter hole after it's mated. Not as easy on the EJ's as it is on the EA's but it is possible. If you know you are going to do this in advance you can add a half-round notch to the starter hole in the transmission bell-housing to leave room for your socket to engage the PP bolts easier.

 

I do SO many engine swaps that I have it down to a science. Three EJ25D to EJ22E swaps last month

 

GD

Edited May 2, 2012 by GeneralDisorder