Bighorncrag Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 When I first started the engine this morning, the starter turned over strong and everything was working as it should, or so I thought. Shortly (2 blocks) after starting my day, I made what I intended to be a brief stop. When coming to a stop and depressing the clutch, I noticed the rpm stayed at 3k for a 4-5 seconds then idled down to around 1200 rpm. I then shut off the ignition. On a whim I hit the ignition again. When I turned the key, no idiot lights on the instrument panel lit, and the gauges remained lifeless. Nothing on the accessory position, nothing on the run position, and certainly no action at the start position. Bad connection at the battery? No. I have very strong hazard flashers, the door chime dings at me, the rear utility light inside the rear lift gate works, horn works, and the power door locks work. Dome lights above the rear-view mirror don't work and brake lights don't work (two items that should work off the battery). I haven't checked the fusible links yet. I have a notion to disconnect the battery, wait, and reconnect to try to reset the ECU (or does this work with Subaru?). I am very new to Subaru so I am open to all advice and suggestions. I have a working knowledge of electrical systems. I would start a series of eliminations but the symptoms I described have me stumped. If I had a dirty battery terminal, I should still have at least dim or faint idiot lights on the instrument panel. Yet when I hit the key, the instrument panel remains as black as a bat's armpit...but the horn, hazards, power door locks and rear utility light all work.:confused::confused: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Try giving it a jump. Try giving it a rolling jump too, get some momentum and pop the clutch with the key on. Eliminate the possibility of it being your battery. Swap batteries maybe. Just some thoughts, many other routes to go as well as I know others will chime in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Check the wire hasn't fallen of the solenoid on the starter motor underneath the spare tyre,everything is easy to get to on a Subie compared to most cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 check fuse #5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bighorncrag Posted May 10, 2012 Author Share Posted May 10, 2012 (edited) I initially tried the ignition again, still get the door chime when the key is in the ignition. With ignition switch in "ON" position, instrument panel remains blank, no results to hitting "START." check fuse #5 Thanks Miles Fox. Not sure how positions in the fuse panel would be designated numerically, but all fuses and fusible links are good. I removed several fuses and tried the ignition, still nothing. I continued with this action with no results. All the fuses were good. After fiddling with fuses for a time, I tried the ignition and all of a sudden had idiot lights on the instrument panel, hit the starter and the engine fired immediately. I allowed it to run for approx one minute then turned off the ignition. Tried again, instrument panel blank, no response to hitting start. Fiddled with fuses some more to see if I could duplicate. Nothing. Disconnected the battery for a couple minutes then reconnected hoping for the off chance it would reset a faulty ECU. Nothing. All wiring in the engine bay is undisturbed and positioned and connected as it should be. I want to reiterate the symptoms in attempt to be as descriptive as possible. Things that aren't working: 1. No idiot lights on the dash when turning the key to "ON." 2. No clicking or action at starter when turning key to "START." 3. No dome light in forward part of cabin. 4. No brake lights 5. No power windows 6. No head lights (don't work anyway without the ignition on, do they?) 7. None of the typical items that function with the ignition switch in the "ON" position are functioning. Things that are working like they should, and act like they are getting full power as if all systems were working properly with fully charged battery: 1. Power door locks work 2. Hazards work 3. Horn works 4. Rear utility light at rear of cabin works. I am 100% confident I have a good battery and a good battery connection. It is acting like there is an open major circuit in the system based on the symptoms. I am suspicious of the ignition switch and the ECU. Again all fuses and fusible links are good. Stumped. Hoping to avoid lining the pockets of my favorite repair shop. Edited May 10, 2012 by Bighorncrag grammar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 You may have a loose wire in the ignition switch that wiggles just enough to short occasionally, and not other times. The battery is (probably) ok. Next time the 'thing' happens, turn on your headlights and see if they come on, even if the dash doesn't. They are wired through the ignition, and should only be 'on' if the key is 'on'--turning the ignition off normally kills the lights. Try them with the ignition 'off' as well. Then try the 'virgin' switch on the top of your steering column. This should turn on the parking lights even if the car is off and the key is out of the ignition. Let us know what happens. Some information will prove useless at the end, but we don't know which facts those will be until we've figured it out. Until then, assume any information could be useful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bighorncrag Posted May 10, 2012 Author Share Posted May 10, 2012 Tried the parking light switch on top of the column, nothing lights up. I had the lower half of the plastic trim off the steering column earlier and wiggled the wiring harness around. Even tapped on the ignition cylinder while actively turning the key. No results.:-\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayoteq Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 Disconnect battery.. If the switch is bad the wires wouldn't matter but loose happens. Voltmeter testing.. If you have the means try getting new switch( $30-40) plug it in where your ignition switch plugs.. reconnect battery, turn key so your steering doesnt lock.. if everything works as you rotate positions then proceed to swapping questions... If not then pack switch up return and lets try something else.. How heavy is your keychain- that could cause flutzy .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 (edited) It also wouldn't hurt to check the fusable links, which are wire loops in a 3"x1" box attached to the coolant overflow bottle under the hood. If they crack or the contacts get corroded it can cause issues like this. Wiggle them around so the contacts get moved to clean any corrosion off and make sure the wires aren't cracked inside their cloth coverings. The connector shown above in the picture of the ignition switch can get burned. It's under the dash partway down the steering column. Pull it apart and see if any of the pins look scorched. Edited May 10, 2012 by WoodsWagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bighorncrag Posted May 11, 2012 Author Share Posted May 11, 2012 The Silver Bullet Lives! Last night I checked, rather just visually looked at the fusible links, may have touched them (likely why I had momentary success), but not very thorough. Tonight, I not only rechecked, I removed and inspected the fusible links. Result was the black link (closest to the shock tower) was the culprit. It also wouldn't hurt to check the fusable links, which are wire loops in a 3"x1" box attached to the coolant overflow bottle under the hood. If they crack or the contacts get corroded it can cause issues like this. Wiggle them around so the contacts get moved to clean any corrosion off and make sure the wires aren't cracked inside their cloth coverings. Thanks WoodsWagon. Don't know how well it shows in the photo, but the spade is discolored from heat. The one spade has good grip on the blade, the other (burnt) spade slides on and off of the blade without much resistance. At least it is working for now. Friday I'll go buy four new fusible links and just start fresh with all of them. Thanks gents for your suggestions/advice. Now if any of you are inclined to experience what I did, unplug the black fusible link. Now go hit the ignition and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 Awesome! I love when it turns out to be a cheap, easy fix (albeit a bothersome one). Glad it worked out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ABawm 88 GL Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 Yeah the same thing happened to me, I had to get to school and the junkyard so I just through some metal in there... I was stumped for an hour though because it looked fine haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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