4x4 EA series rear wheel bearing

[81EA81]

I am in the process of replacing the rear wheel bearings on my 84 Gl wagon(EA81).

 

I removed the trailing arm and CV axle from the car and since pulled the outer seal and bearing. My next step is to remove the retaining ring from the inside of the hub.

 

I've done a bit of research and I discovered a Pin Socket specially designed for this job.

By the looks of it someone before me used the punch and hammer method and two of the notches look a bit rough.Hopefully pics this evening

 

The question is, Who has been able use this method successfully without tearing up the hub?

Ideally I would order the pin socket but the bearings were ALOT more expensive then I thought. I will call around locally to look into borrowing one.

 

Both the old and new bearings are NTN yet they are in a Timken box.

 

Yes its a west coast car but there is still plenty of rust holding it together. It took a good effort to remove the CV axle. I have a question about this too, it will be asked with pics.

 

Thank you.

[john in KY]

I'll sell my pin socket for $25 shipped.

[Gloyale]

The pin socket is the way to go. If you can find one, buy it. It will make instalation much easier.

 

BUt if you don't have it, the punch method works too. you'll just have to clean up the edges on a bench grinder before reinstallation.

 

bearing should only be $40-60 from AZ or other store.

[987687]

I've done it with a punch, and it worked fine. I didn't mess anything up. I have a thread about rear wheel bearings with pics in the USRM.

[morf]

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=112226

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77491

 

Helped me out a lot.

Edited May 9, 2012 by morf
better guide

[81EA81]

I'll sell my pin socket for $25 shipped.

 

Thank you, I may take you up on that.Ill PM you when I have the money to see if your still willing,However I was able to remove the ring with a punch and hammer.

 

 

Thank you Morf for the links.

 

 

987687,

I've done it with a punch, and it worked fine. I didn't mess anything up. I have a thread about rear wheel bearings with pics in the USRM.

 

Thank you and USMB for that. it helped me get an understanding on how to start. This is my first time dealing with the back half of a Subaru. usually all the action is up front.

 

The outer lip was bent into the slots to lock it in place.It put up a fight at first then it seemed to go real easy.would it hurt to put Anti- seize on the threads during installation or is that a job for wheel bearing grease.

 

Oh, and as far as races needing pressed it.GD, I thought I read somewhere you saying the outter steel on the race is strong yet the underlying layer is brittle and can form micro fractures from the impact of a hammer.

My plan is to use a rubber mallet against the old race against the new.

Bad idea?

I hope all goes well.

 

[lostbrat]

I made my own pin socket. you just need a welder,somne metal and an old 1/2" socket. I have used mine half dozen times and is the way to go. I will use it again soon because I have a rear suspension completley disassembled for painting.

[GeneralDisorder]

Oh, and as far as races needing pressed it.GD, I thought I read somewhere you saying the outter steel on the race is strong yet the underlying layer is brittle and can form micro fractures from the impact of a hammer.

My plan is to use a rubber mallet against the old race against the new.

Bad idea?

I hope all goes well.

 

Yes - use the old outer race to drive in the new one. I get the new one started a bit with my small dead blown and just work my way around it till it is in far enough to correct it's own alignment. Then I use the old race to put the new one in to the full depth.

 

GD