Legacy ball joints

[Mikevan10]

I need to replace the ball joints in the front end of my 1997 Legacy wagon. Is there a particular brand I should get? Is there a particular brand I should avoid? Where will I get the best price?

 

Thanks,

Mike V.

[1 Lucky Texan]

I need to replace the ball joints in the front end of my 1997 Legacy wagon. Is there a particular brand I should get? Is there a particular brand I should avoid? Where will I get the best price?

 

Thanks,

Mike V.

 

someone with a lot of experience will probably be along with advice about aftermarket brands, but, you could give your local dealer a chance to match online dealer prices (like subarugenuineparts.com) I've some luck doing that (matched SPT spring prices, 'almost' matched SS brakeline price) or, just order OEM on-line.

[ShawnW]

I have some aftermarket ones that I stock and like the quality of-they look OEM to me. I can ship them. $18.70 ea plus shipping- USPS flat rate Priority small box should work.

[johnceggleston]

I have some aftermarket ones that I stock and like the quality of-they look OEM to me. I can ship them. $18.70 ea plus shipping- USPS flat rate Priority small box should work.

 

i think advance auto charges $28 for ball joints, i think.

[Mikevan10]

So I am safe to shop around for the best deal, regardless of manufacturer?

[idosubaru]

ball joints and tie rods are about the two most dangerous items that can fail...people think it's brakes - but you generally have options if brakes have issues.

 

if a ball joint or tie rod fails - it's not pretty when that happens, the car can do crazy things and you have no control.

 

i'm not saying i've heard of ball joint failures in Subaru's and you're generally going to have some warning signs and manufacturers don't want liabilities, so might not be much issue - but i like how robust Subaru ball joints are and I generally don't cheap out on them.

 

i use Subaru or Beck Arnley and wouldn't buy the cheapest thing you can find on these. Shawn just posted a great price and the guy knows Subaru's like his socks - I'd buy that.

[Mikevan10]

Any idea what Subaru charges for OEM joints?

[mattocs]

Any idea what Subaru charges for OEM joints?

 

About $45. You can save about $10 by ordering from an online Subaru dealer.

[1 Lucky Texan]

ball joints and tie rods are about the two most dangerous items that can fail...people think it's brakes - but you generally have options if brakes have issues.

 

if a ball joint or tie rod fails - it's not pretty when that happens, the car can do crazy things and you have no control.

 

i'm not saying i've heard of ball joint failures in Subaru's and you're generally going to have some warning signs and manufacturers don't want liabilities, so might not be much issue - but i like how robust Subaru ball joints are and I generally don't cheap out on them.

 

i use Subaru or Beck Arnley and wouldn't buy the cheapest thing you can find on these. Shawn just posted a great price and the guy knows Subaru's like his socks - I'd buy that.

 

 

Yeah, when it comes to aftermarket, many items are offered in 2-3-4 'levels'/price-points. I learned the hardway decades ago that asking for the cheapest V-belt just meanst I'd be back in 10-15K miles for another. Now, obviously, if a place doesn't offer a really cheap item, folks will leave and find some store that has a cheaper part. There's a kinda 'race to the bottom'. I try to ask around, like you're doing. I also figure, for DIY repairs, I'm saving on labor so, I spend a little xtra on fluids/parts. But, for folks who have tiny budgets, and for folks who will be selling a car in a week or two - there are cheap parts that barely work. I was just trying to explain to a guy at work who has just pulled out the 2nd bad clutch that he should ask what other quality/price points are available for him - no point in trying a 3rd one of the cheapest they have if 2 have already failed. I'm sure when they hear him ask for a part for a 92 paseo, they figure he is either gonna dump it soon, or he is just poor(he isn't). I bet most counter guys with any experience have a good feeling for what's crap and what's OK.

[Fairtax4me]

The cheapest cheap part you will be replacing again in 6-8 months. If I want a part that will last until the rest of the car rusts away I buy Moog. Usually twice the cost of the less expensive parts but worth it when you don't have to replace them again in a year, and have to pay for another alignment. For Ball joints that's not necessary, but after replacing steering parts an alignment is just cheap insurance against worn out tires.

[davebugs]

I buy the best, OEM if necessary. I've done a lot of 95-99 Subaru's and non ever needed a BJ. Rear end links a few (and they were pricey).

 

GG is correct. Like my Astro just needed an idler on the LF suspension. Wen tot my local independent auto parts and the new fella(been there a few weeks) looked up what they had.

 

One for 25.00 (probably Quality or Cardone) and a MOOG for 117.00. I asked for the expensive one. I had to ask twice because most folks buy the cheap parts. I don't piss around with cheap parts in general and certainly not with steering.

 

I prefer used OEM to new and cheap most of the time but that doesn't make sense for a BJ.

[1-3-2-4]

I used Deeza with no issue just watch out that you don't pry so much that you crack where the ball joint sits.

[Mikevan10]

I tried to get a hold of Shawn but he did not respond to my voice mail so I just picked up a pair of ball joints from my local foreign car parts store. They sold me joints that are packaged with brand name Autoparts International and are made in China. $21.00 each. Wish me luck...

 

I started researching this message board for tips on ball joint replacement as well as CV joint boot replacement (I'll be doing that too). Man, there are alot of horror stories out there! I really don't think this job should be a big deal. Hope I am right. I'll let y'all know how it goes.

 

Mike V.

[ShawnW]

Sorry I didn't call you back. I don't typically keep office hours during the day but will be soon. Tried to reach you back but you were already gone. Best to email.

 

Spray a ton of penetrant on the bolt that retains the ball joint at the top. Its going to be rusted in good on most cars from out east.

[Mikevan10]

Last weekend I set out to change out both front ball joints, replace the left hand side outboard CV joint boot and replace the inner tie rods on my 1997 Legacy. What I actually accomplished was to replace the CV joint boot and the left side ball joint. The CV joint reboot went well (see other thread dedicated to that task). Next I went after the left side ball joint. I had been spraying the pinch bolt area with PB Blaster for about 12 hours and also periodically tapping on the pinch bolt to set up a vibration and help the PB Blaster work. When I finally attempted to unscrew the pinch bolt the head twisted right off. You know the rest of the story. I had to drill the bolt out. This took hours of work and dispensed with a box full of drill bits before the job was done. Once the actual pinch bolt was removed, I went in with a 7/16" drill to allow me to install a longer M10 bolt with a nut. It was a very big PITA.

 

Not to bi*ch too much, but as fate would have it I came down with nasty spring cold on Friday and my stamina was in short supply so I decided that when I finally completed the installation of the left side ball joint at around 2 PM on Sunday that I would leave the tie rods and right side ball joint for another time.

 

Now I am trying to decide how to approach the job if the right side pinch bolt twists off. I assume it will, although I have been squirting a shot of PB Blaster on it daily just for the hell of it. The first thing I will probably do is to buy some cobalt drill bits. Maybe a 1/8", a 1/4", and a 3/8". I already have the 7/16" one. The pinch bolt material is too hard for your standard high speed steel drill bits unless you like dulling several of them and spending a long, hard time drilling away.

 

I will also seriously consider removing the steering knuckle from the car but I don't know how I would hold it in order to do the job on my drill press.

 

This was a horrendous job (admittedly made much worse by my poor health).

 

Mike V.

[1 Lucky Texan]

Last weekend I set out to change out both front ball joints, replace the left hand side outboard CV joint boot and replace the inner tie rods on my 1997 Legacy. What I actually accomplished was to replace the CV joint boot and the left side ball joint. The CV joint reboot went well (see other thread dedicated to that task). Next I went after the left side ball joint. I had been spraying the pinch bolt area with PB Blaster for about 12 hours and also periodically tapping on the pinch bolt to set up a vibration and help the PB Blaster work. When I finally attempted to unscrew the pinch bolt the head twisted right off. You know the rest of the story. I had to drill the bolt out. This took hours of work and dispensed with a box full of drill bits before the job was done. Once the actual pinch bolt was removed, I went in with a 7/16" drill to allow me to install a longer M10 bolt with a nut. It was a very big PITA.

 

Not to bi*ch too much, but as fate would have it I came down with nasty spring cold on Friday and my stamina was in short supply so I decided that when I finally completed the installation of the left side ball joint at around 2 PM on Sunday that I would leave the tie rods and right side ball joint for another time.

 

Now I am trying to decide how to approach the job if the right side pinch bolt twists off. I assume it will, although I have been squirting a shot of PB Blaster on it daily just for the hell of it. The first thing I will probably do is to buy some cobalt drill bits. Maybe a 1/8", a 1/4", and a 3/8". I already have the 7/16" one. The pinch bolt material is too hard for your standard high speed steel drill bits unless you like dulling several of them and spending a long, hard time drilling away.

 

I will also seriously consider removing the steering knuckle from the car but I don't know how I would hold it in order to do the job on my drill press.

 

This was a horrendous job (admittedly made much worse by my poor health).

 

Mike V.

 

 

how much heat could you put on it before compromising grease/rubber on the good parts? Try heating it, then pouring some cold water on it. Also, try TIGHTENING it very slightly before backing it out. (maybe set a torque wrench to 5-10% OVER suggested torque and tighten it)

 

I dunno - good luck.

[Mikevan10]

Heat - I don't know how much I could get away with. The only rubber parts I would be concerned with would be the wheel bearing seals. The inner wheel bearing seal should be relatively easy to replace but I don't know about the outer one. Do you? But any the only heat source I have is a regular propane job for soldering plumbing joints.

 

I can do the tightening thing with a torque wrench set to 10% over the specified tightening torque. I will do it but, to be honest, I can't see it helping. It seems like the bolt gets seizied in there over its entire length. It is not just over the threaded portion. I say this based on waht I observed as I drilled out the pinch bolt on the left side. The unthreaded portion of the bolt was definitely one with the knuckle...

[wentz912]

Five bucks says you use NeverSeize on the new hardware!

[uniberp]

Search for an old post of mine on the technique of pre-drilling the the pinch bolt before removing it. I've done it several times and not busted a bolt head off since I started doing it this way.

 

Last weekend I set out to change out both front ball joints, replace the left hand side outboard CV joint boot and replace the inner tie rods on my 1997 Legacy. What I actually accomplished was to replace the CV joint boot and the left side ball joint. The CV joint reboot went well (see other thread dedicated to that task). Next I went after the left side ball joint. I had been spraying the pinch bolt area with PB Blaster for about 12 hours and also periodically tapping on the pinch bolt to set up a vibration and help the PB Blaster work. When I finally attempted to unscrew the pinch bolt the head twisted right off. You know the rest of the story. I had to drill the bolt out. This took hours of work and dispensed with a box full of drill bits before the job was done. Once the actual pinch bolt was removed, I went in with a 7/16" drill to allow me to install a longer M10 bolt with a nut. It was a very big PITA.

 

Not to bi*ch too much, but as fate would have it I came down with nasty spring cold on Friday and my stamina was in short supply so I decided that when I finally completed the installation of the left side ball joint at around 2 PM on Sunday that I would leave the tie rods and right side ball joint for another time.

 

Now I am trying to decide how to approach the job if the right side pinch bolt twists off. I assume it will, although I have been squirting a shot of PB Blaster on it daily just for the hell of it. The first thing I will probably do is to buy some cobalt drill bits. Maybe a 1/8", a 1/4", and a 3/8". I already have the 7/16" one. The pinch bolt material is too hard for your standard high speed steel drill bits unless you like dulling several of them and spending a long, hard time drilling away.

 

I will also seriously consider removing the steering knuckle from the car but I don't know how I would hold it in order to do the job on my drill press.

 

This was a horrendous job (admittedly made much worse by my poor health).

 

Mike V.

[rallynutdon]

The cheapest cheap part you will be replacing again in 6-8 months. If I want a part that will last until the rest of the car rusts away I buy Moog. Usually twice the cost of the less expensive parts but worth it when you don't have to replace them again in a year, and have to pay for another alignment. For Ball joints that's not necessary, but after replacing steering parts an alignment is just cheap insurance against worn out tires.

I got it on the signature. I once had the club pres ask me (as treasurer) to pu my John Hancock on a check, and I did

[idosubaru]

yep - i just had one like this the other day. it was INSANE. welcome to the northeast. not only that but the ball joint itself needed drilled out of the hub - completely rusted in place - it was crazy train. on a newer Outback in great condition with almost zero rust on the body.

 

i think i would try that predrill along with:

 

there is some kind of rust penetrant that folks mentioned that i've never heard of or used before available at auto parts stores, i can't recall the name but people were talking about it recently. they wet a rag and wrap it around the offending parts to let the fluid continually soak into the rust?

 

the predrill is probably partially effective due to it creating localized heating.

 

propane can actually help in some situations - but you are correct the typical rust seen in the NE - particularly on that pinch bolt the propane is never going to touch. you don't really want the wheel bearings and associated grease soaking that heat anyway if possible.

 

YIELD is also some really good stuff, seems better than PB Blaster...though it's very expensive and hard to get, local places don't typically carry it.

[1 Lucky Texan]

yep - i just had one like this the other day. it was INSANE. welcome to the northeast. not only that but the ball joint itself needed drilled out of the hub - completely rusted in place - it was crazy train. on a newer Outback in great condition with almost zero rust on the body.

 

i think i would try that predrill along with:

 

there is some kind of rust penetrant that folks mentioned that i've never heard of or used before available at auto parts stores, i can't recall the name but people were talking about it recently. they wet a rag and wrap it around the offending parts to let the fluid continually soak into the rust?

 

the predrill is probably partially effective due to it creating localized heating.

 

propane can actually help in some situations - but you are correct the typical rust seen in the NE - particularly on that pinch bolt the propane is never going to touch. you don't really want the wheel bearings and associated grease soaking that heat anyway if possible.

 

YIELD is also some really good stuff, seems better than PB Blaster...though it's very expensive and hard to get, local places don't typically carry it.

 

 

that rag soaking thing does seem familiar.

 

The only test you can find on the 'net was for PB Blaster, Kroil and other off-the-shelf penetrants, but in that test, the best was 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF fluid (dexron III I guess) - have to shake it up before use.

 

still, may not work for this severe rusting. As for heat, I'm sure the knuckle gets plenty hot in normal use - but excess heat could definitely be an issue. If you could keep it localized - then flood with cool/cold water......thermal shock might be helpful.

[1997reduxe]

i wish i had seen this post earlier.

i have seen Moog on rockauto for 30 bucks.

Gotta get them myself.

[Mikevan10]

Wow, Gary, how does one DRILL the ball joint out of the knuckle? As hard as it is to say, I guess I was "lucky" in that I had no problem removing the ball joint once the pinch bolt was out. Of course, the area around the pinch bolt was worked over pretty good by that time....

 

Your theory that predrilling the threaded end of the pinch bolt causing localized heating, thus helping to "free up" the pinch bolt is the best one I have seen. I cannot come up with another techically sound reason why that would help. I would be interested to hear anybody else's theories.

[Mikevan10]

OK, no theories, I guess. Well, just for the heck of it, the first thing I did when I started work to change out the right side ball joint Sunday morning was to drill a 3/16" hole, one inch deep into the threaded end of the pinch bolt. The next thing I did was to "tighten" the pinch bolt to 50 ft-lbs. I had been spraying PB Blaster on the pinch bolt for a week. I doused it a couple of times daily. Guess what? The head of the pinch bolt twisted off!! This is exactly what I expected to happen so this time I was prepared with a collection of brand new cobalt drill bits. I drilled the bolt from both ends in small steps, using about six increasingly sized drill bits ending with the 7/16" bit which accomodates the M10 pinch bolt (with a nut on it). Since I had the sharp cobalt bits and I was mentally prepared, the job went smoother than the left side but it still ammounted to a couple of hours of drill work.

 

So now I have two new ball joints in and I should not have to do this job again on this car (1997 with close to 250K on the odometer).

 

Mike V.