Transfer clutch pack replacement parts list?

[tobyj17]

Hi, I'm getting ready to replace the transfer clutch pack in my 97 Legacy, And i'm wondering if there's a parts list around here? Here's what I've found:

 

http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=18563

 

That's the transfer clutches, it appears to be all I need, but before i tear into it, I want to know if there's anything else I should be replacing? Also, any chance that there's a cheaper place? I've done a lot of searching, and some mention the duty C solenoid, but how to tell if it's bad?

 

Thanks in advance

[bstone]

If it hasn't gone bad yet then it probably will very soon. I would definitely replace the Duty C Solenoid.

[tobyj17]

If it hasn't gone bad yet then it probably will very soon. I would definitely replace the Duty C Solenoid.

 

Okay, I'll get the solenoid as well. Any special tools needed? I've got snap ring pliers and about every other standard tool imaginable..

[bstone]

Okay, I'll get the solenoid as well. Any special tools needed? I've got snap ring pliers and about every other standard tool imaginable..

 

Just a regular socket set and thin arms to get all the bolts of the extension housing off.

[bluedotsnow]

I had to do this job after a shop and dealer @#$# me over. here is what I learned.

 

if your going to replace the duty c solenoid you have to buy the valve body, if you actually want to install the new duty c valve body you need TWO gaskets one for under the backing plate and one for in between the backing plate and valve body. some people will tell you that "the gasket comes off every time and are reusable" but I have spent over $1000 on a bad situation that was resolved by myself comparing what a shop did to a tail section I got at pick n pull. I used the new solenoid on a junkyard valve body/tail section and low and behold rear wheel drive! (general disorder) did call this way before I found the problem but I did not have the means to test or verify his advice until recently.

 

after you get done replacing parts and still have the tail section off, get a can of air or air compressor to test that the valve body is operating properly. apply pressure to the supply port on the tail section and you should see two things happen. the (I believe lower) valve will open with psi applied to it and will allow pressure to flow up through the supply line forcing the clutch pack against the snap ring. not doing this untill a week ago has cost me dearly and I will now do it every time I have to do this job!

 

 

if you re install the valve body without the backing plate it will not hold pressure properly and blow it off back into the main fluid cavity. this causes the trans to show a higher fluid level than it should with a less than normal amount of atf (at least in my case) and it will also prevent atf from properly lubricating the clutch pack. so you will burn up your atf rather quickly I will post some pics for you when I can.

 

this is an easy job that takes ALOT of patience and the right tools. the parking prowl can also be problematic but as long as you make ABSOLUTELY sure its in place even with the case mostly on you will be fine. if you get it back together and you have clacking or juddering in D then you have to open it all up again and make sure that little prowl spring is in place holding tension on the prowl or it will move when in D and causes BAD BAD things to happen if left unchecked. I test the car with all 4 wheels off the ground just to be safe.

 

if you brace your trans properly and don't let it sag I found that the top two case bolts were impossible to get to without a flexible socket extension or one (for lack of a better term) with a u-joint like the rear drive shaft. I'm sure a thumb drive and extension could get it on but you really need a bit more than hand tight on these.

 

I have a 96 lego and will compare parts on opposedforces.com/parts 97 is the year they changed the 4eat or I would refer you to my parts list. I believe this is the year they changed how the transfer clutch/solenoid operates and fails too. can you list your trans code and the manufacture date? my 96 was actually made in 95 but still has OBD2 whoo hoo!

 

 

from what I can see on opposedforces.com/parts the only major change was in the piston clutch transfer assembly, do you have an F.S.M. not chilton or anything else BUT A REAL FSM for your car?

Edited May 20, 2012 by bluedotsnow

[bluedotsnow]

I wish someone else would chime in I believe one of the key differences between my car a 96 lego and your car is that the line pressure flowing the duty c valve body operates the clutches in a different fashion. yours I believe is locked in AWD unless line pressure is applied to the clutch packs separating them and rendering more FrontWD bias. mine requires line pressure applied to the clutch pack to engage AWD.

[GeneralDisorder]

There is no difference in how any of the MPT clutch pack's operate. That goes for all 4EAT's - '88 to present day. Fluid pressure is required to engage the AWD as with any hydraulic clutch pack as seen in any common modern automatic transmission.

 

The difference is that the Subaru MPT clutch (Multi-Plate Transer for those not in the know) is designed to slip when the duty-c bleeds off a percentage of the fluid pressure via a PWM signal from the TCU.

 

GD

[kmix99]

Wondering if you folks could help.........I'm in the process of replacing the Duty-C solenoid assy on my 1992 Legacy LS. I noticed there is a small bolt with o-ring on the outside of the tail housing. If you open this bolt, you'll see the end of the metal tubing that runs to the Duty-C valve assembly. Is this the port for pressure testing the solenoid? Do I need to do anything special with this during the install (like bleed this line through the bolt hole or something)?

 

Thanks in advance.

[wtdash]

HI,

It's been awhile since I did this repair, but I didn't bleed anything. Just put it back together and was good to go. The parking pawl mentioned above is a pain...ensure you note how it comes out!

 

Thanks,

TD