Oil additive for minor leak and best protection?

[1997reduxe]

Ok, so I got my timing belt kit replaced on my 95 2.2 the other day.

(This was the one I wrote about a while back that had a gusher coming

out of the tb cover.)

Everything seems kosher regarding the kit change, the mechanic said

it was the driver's cam seal went bad.

But now I'm back to the "original leak(s)" I had.

Very small, but I wondered if anyone could recommend a great oil product

that may repair small leaks and possible protect from any damage I may

have cause while driving it on that one or two quarts for a short while?

I've actually been thinking about returning to Mobil1 in this car,

which I used to run religiously in my old 97. For the seals' sake especially.

Thanks for any help. (Once again).

Dan

[Suba9792]

I would NOT use any "oil stop leak" period its just not a wise decision. I would take it back to this "mechanic" and tell him that its still leaking.

Were all cam seals replaced?

Were they seated correctly?

Did he replace the oil pump o-ring and reseal it properly(loctite 518)?

Was the crank seal replaced and seated correctly?

These are the things you need to watch,I've seen too many shops, seat the seals wrong or not replace all of them period. Or go nuts with rtv on the oil pump. I'd take it back if I was you and tell him to do it right. Also you should check your valve covers as well. If the mechanic knew what he was doing you would not have this on going leak. If you were closer I'd say bring it by.

[987687]

Yea, don't go dumping any crap in the engine. It's going to cause more problems.

Don't let the shop do so either.

 

A proper timing belt job is oil pump, cam, and crank seals. And replacing the waterpump and all the idlers.

 

If one of those steps wasn't done, take it back until it's done. It should definitely not leak out the front of the engine after a timing belt job. That's ridiculous. Since it wasn't fixed right, get your money back, or have them do it right.

[jarl]

Just my 2 cents:

 

After replacing "all" the seals on my 2.2 (except the rear main), it looks like my car is leaking oil from the base of the oil filler tube. The left valve cover is covered with oil, but there's no oil reaching the floor. All it needs is an o'ring, but I've been waiting until I get a larger order to place.

 

So... check your's.

[Ricearu]

I think the original leaks the OP is referring to may be separator plate, or oil pan etc. I put lucas oil stabilizer in my soobies and it helps with oil consumption all the way around. Helps against wear too. Honestly, there is not additive that can be better than keeping your 4 quart capacity engine FULL of oil. Check it weekly at least. Look under your car for spotting and other fluid leaks daily. I have driven my wife's car for 3 months with a pissing front cam seal, I haven't fixed it because it has 2 bent valves and low compression on cyl 3. I just keep it full of oil and drive on until my outback is fixed.

 

Oh, and Mobile1 has very fine particles and they are all uniform, and will leak on older engines LIKE A SIEVE!

 

I live in texas' beautiful hot climate and run Rotella 15w-40 year round and my soobs barely leak. I always say to my friends and anyone who tells me that my car is leaving an oil spot, that that's how I know it has oil in it.

 

If it isn't leaking oil, it's probobly out...

[987687]

Just my 2 cents:

 

After replacing "all" the seals on my 2.2 (except the rear main), it looks like my car is leaking oil from the base of the oil filler tube. The left valve cover is covered with oil, but there's no oil reaching the floor. All it needs is an o'ring, but I've been waiting until I get a larger order to place.

 

So... check your's.

 

Just take the fill tube off in a parts store parking lot and bring it in. Napa has an index of o-rings. They'll just match them up to the right size. It'll cost you $1.50. That's what I did. No reason to order.

[Suba9792]

if the op is seeing the oil up front...one would assume that its not the separator plate, but yes at some point check to see if you do have the updated plate. but for now id stick to the front of the engine. i think his prognosis of your leak was either amature or he just didnt give a rats A$$ and did it sloppy. my bet is that he replaced the seal wrong.

[Suba9792]

I think the original leaks the OP is referring to may be separator plate, or oil pan etc. I put lucas oil stabilizer in my soobies and it helps with oil consumption all the way around. Helps against wear too. Honestly, there is not additive that can be better than keeping your 4 quart capacity engine FULL of oil. Check it weekly at least. Look under your car for spotting and other fluid leaks daily. I have driven my wife's car for 3 months with a pissing front cam seal, I haven't fixed it because it has 2 bent valves and low compression on cyl 3. I just keep it full of oil and drive on until my outback is fixed.

 

Oh, and Mobile1 has very fine particles and they are all uniform, and will leak on older engines LIKE A SIEVE!

 

I live in texas' beautiful hot climate and run Rotella 15w-40 year round and my soobs barely leak. I always say to my friends and anyone who tells me that my car is leaving an oil spot, that that's how I know it has oil in it.

 

If it isn't leaking oil, it's probobly out...

I have yet to see a leaky EJ pan. Oil stabilizer...humm whats it supposed to be "stabilizing"? i though regular maintenance, oil changes are supposed to relieve these sort of issues. ANY oil additive is plain old nonsense, you just dont use them period. Unless its MMO orRislone to clean it out.

Mobile one is great oil i run it in everything I own, never had a problem, but thats also because my cars have always been sealed up tight. But it does tend to thin out more at operating temp, but so do most synthetic oils.

Rotella is amazing oil for sure I will give it that! it passed some extreme endurance test.

[987687]

I have yet to see a leaky EJ pan.

 

Move to Maine.... It's not uncommon at all for them to rust out and start leaking.

 

Actually, don't move to Maine.

[Suba9792]

bottom line is.... there is no sure additive that will stop a oil leak without causing damage to vital engine componets and plugging galleys. When you have an oil leak, trace it to the source and replace that item that is leaking. Now if you wish to flush your oil and clean up some varnish then a little mmo or Rislone is fine, but your leak will be profuse with the thin detergent thats in those, and you would probably want to change it after about 100 miles.

 

Did he by chance look at you PS pump:rolleyes:

[Suba9792]

Move to Maine.... It's not uncommon at all for them to rust out and start leaking.

 

Actually, don't move to Maine.

Well that does make sense being in the rust belt for sure. we just never see them out here and if we do its very rare.

[1997reduxe]

Actually, don't move to Maine.

 

But I love Maine!

Acadia is the place!

 

The thing is, sorry for late reply, it's not leaking out of the front where it was anymore. I'm talking about a very small drip or drips. Actually, this car has a long and troubled history, New Hampshire beginnings, total salvage when I got it.

 

It just seems to be something like the fill tube oil ring, valve covers, or oil pan. Occasionally I am smelling oil from burning on exhaust but it may be leftovers from past leak (that's what it did even a while back even before the Niagra of leaks started.) (Or rear main or separator, but hoping not.) More like the mid area on engine. But he seems to have done the tb kit well. Thanks for all the various views as per usual...

 

But very happy lately. Can't believe it's still running as well as it is after running out of oil. I was amazed it made it the 55 miles home from his shop.

Now to begin the rest of the maintenance!