Pacific Rider Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 My daughters 97 Legacy LSI 2.5 DOHC auto 220000+ mi Started making this loud sound today, it gets a little quieter when it's in gear. The end of the vid is in gear R then N then D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Rod knock. It's toast. Pull the pan. You'll find the metal. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Rod knock. It's toast. Pull the pan. You'll find the metal. GD Yup, the engine is toast. Sounds like a main bearing has broken off. The end of an engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djmark7 Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 i cant listen any more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Impressive that it runs. Only ever heard 2 that bad. It'll be good for other newbies that come here and search. But it sucks for you. When I get one like this I put a 2.2 in it. Most JY 2.5's are gonna have hG issues which often lead to the rod bearing issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 rod knock toasty i have a good crank if you need with rods for 96-98 ej25d or have two rebiuldable short blocks and one running long block with bad headgasket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pacific Rider Posted May 29, 2012 Author Share Posted May 29, 2012 Thanks. Im not shure what I'll do from here. Will the 2.2 run with the same computer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Yes. A 95 automatic 2.2 is a direct swap - no wiring required at all. 96 to 98 will require a different exhaust header. Otherwise its plug and play. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 i have very good results putting 2.5 heads on 2.2 engine close to same power and you just need a 2.2 short block Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pacific Rider Posted May 30, 2012 Author Share Posted May 30, 2012 I don't have a place to make a project out of it. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/3045503222.html PostingID: 3045503222 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1997reduxe Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 Oh damn I wish you were in Houston. I'd learn to replace it out on the street. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 to bad its 8000 miles away put a 2.2 in it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 you could do a 2.2 swap in your driveway this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pacific Rider Posted June 2, 2012 Author Share Posted June 2, 2012 Daughter never liked the car.It looks like a real easy swap but we don't have the money for another engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pacific Rider Posted June 4, 2012 Author Share Posted June 4, 2012 Are you guys a 100% on the engine. I moved it today, it doesn't seem to want to go forward to well. Would the transmission make such a noise? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 This is two or three noises, and I dont think it is a rod knock. Rod knock has a very easy test. Disconnect 1 plug wire at a time. When you get to the affected cylinder the noise will stop. If that isn't it, and as you say the car doesnt want to move, lets look at a transmission issue, like a failed torque converter or flex plate, broken front pump, god knows what else. Rod knock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 It's a rod knock. I've heard it many times. Pull the pan or cut the filter and you will find the metal. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Are you guys a 100% on the engine. I moved it today, it doesn't seem to want to go forward to well. Would the transmission make such a noise? Yeah, it's not gonna want to drive well with spun/seized bearings. It's excactly the spun bearing noise....heard it many times. You will find the metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pacific Rider Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share Posted June 6, 2012 This guy says it was the flex plate. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwZIcM4fn5c&feature=related I'm not trying to be a pain, just tryin to rue everything else out. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 IM going with a flex plate, but like i said the rod bearing noise is an easy test to do. Also there is the usual disclaimer, that noises are hard to diagnose over the net, so GD may be correct. I may be correct, or we may both be correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pacific Rider Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share Posted June 6, 2012 (edited) Would the flex plate be an easy fix?? It sounds like it's banging on the case, can't tell if it's the bell housing or not. Edited June 6, 2012 by Pacific Rider Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=133453&highlight=Flex+Plate With a pic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 Problem with the flexplate theory. If it were damaged badly enough to affect engagement of the transmission, the engine would not be able to start because the starter could not spin the crankshaft fast enough to overcome the compression in the cylinders. But the flexplate can be inspected through the access hole in the top of the bell housing to the right of the throttle body. You could even remove the bolts that hold it to the torque converter and see if it falls apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 The picture of the cracked flexplate was on a running car, so they can run and start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 Another vote for rod knock here. I have heard that way too many times. Just pull the drain plug and look at the oil. It will be a grey murky mess with shiny spots in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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