knoxuni Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 I got it march of 2012 for $800 because of my truck dying. I wanting outback at the time but couldn't afford it, so I got this. its a 1992 Loyale with 139K on it. When I got it the car had 130K its all stock. One of the first things I did was changed all the fluids and cleaned it. its got a few dents here and there but ************ happens when its a 20yr old car. i replace the lights with some xenons and put some stickers on it. I just got done fixing the TOD. plans: some 14in wheels some lights. a proper roof rack. new muffler. mud flaps and some dent removel. Pictures: this car will go anywere so i have taken it everywere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knoxuni Posted May 30, 2012 Author Share Posted May 30, 2012 one more pic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXJ Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 $800... looks like a great find Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knoxuni Posted May 30, 2012 Author Share Posted May 30, 2012 Just wonderful i got the TOD.... not happy. oil pump yes or no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXJ Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 (edited) I don't think the tick of death has been discussed.... listen...there's a thread on the main page right now, tick of death in the title, someone gave it five stars, it wanders around a lot and that Rick James is a pain in the rump roast.. you might learn something, though, re your oil pump, mystery springs and plungers etc etc.. if that thread doesn't do anything for you.... search. TOD can be solved, no worries..you got a good car edit: great ending for joshjosh the OP...good story Edited May 30, 2012 by RXJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 lol thats my wagons twin! in almost every way. 91 loyale same color i paid 800 its an auto with 142k miles.... i too have the occasional TOD but mine only happens when its really cold. but it still annoys me so im going to reseal the motor when i get a chance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knoxuni Posted May 31, 2012 Author Share Posted May 31, 2012 lol thats my wagons twin! in almost every way. 91 loyale same color i paid 800 its an auto with 142k miles.... i too have the occasional TOD but mine only happens when its really cold. but it still annoys me so im going to reseal the motor when i get a chance I am waiting on the time and parts to reseal mine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 I get paid in a few days so im probably goin to go down to the local subaru dealership and buy all new gaskets aside from intake and HG a new timing belt maybe a new water pump too..i enjoy knowing i can pull it apart replace everything and have it back together in less than 4 hrs, even less with air tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knoxuni Posted June 2, 2012 Author Share Posted June 2, 2012 ok here is the deal. i dont wana get rid of the car but i dont think its the micky mouse seal.... the lifters are ticking what does that mean? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXJ Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 (edited) You also don't want to search...that said, I wish my kids (18 &20) were asking questions like this...are you really 17? It may have something to do with oil pressure... edit: did you change the mickey mouse seals? Edited June 2, 2012 by RXJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zukiru Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 solutions for tick of death. cheap to expensive 1. change oil. 2. run one quart of ATF (has detergents) this solved mine. (remove at next oil change) 3. Seafoam in oil 4. reseal oil pump 5. NEW oil pump. don't throw an oil pump at it until you've tried cleaning the gunk out of your oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigjimd Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 I tried #1 through #4 in that order and they helped for a while. Finally pulled the motor and did a complete reseal along with getting the HLA's rebuilt. Prolly should have eplaced the oil pump but it looked good. Maybe 10,000 miles later and still quiet and no oil leaks. Yipee!!! Gotta go over it as soon as it gets back in town cause it's spotting a little coolant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knoxuni Posted June 3, 2012 Author Share Posted June 3, 2012 I am going to do a reseal but Is there a parts list for what I need any were? Is it hard as it looks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_dude Posted June 3, 2012 Share Posted June 3, 2012 I am going to do a reseal but Is there a parts list for what I need any were? Is it hard as it looks? I think you should just swap an EA81 in it. No timing belts, let alone a stupid timing belt design. Those EA82s are so much more of a pain maintenance wise. Hell I'll give you a hand on finding a cheap EA81 and swapping them out. You must realize I have become biased against the EA82. I loved those cars for such a long time (and still love the bodies, lots of cargo space and lightweight), have owned 8 or 9 of them. But after owning a few EJs, and my first EA81... I realize I've been missing out on what really gave Subaru their reputation for reliability and durability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
801Ruckus Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 (edited) Knoxuni, good buy!!! My first subie was a '92 Loyale wag I bought last winter, same colour as yours, was beat to fuss, but for $600, I figured it'd get me by till I found something more durable. Replaced the retaining bolt in the front right wheel when the old one sheared and started trynna walk sideways on me. Then, 2 days after buying new tires, poof goes the tranny. Luckily, I got a call from a friend at a wrecking yard who read my facebook post where I was lamenting the loss of my loyale and on a hunch he went out in the yard and found the SAME EXACT CAR that a lady had sold to the lot for scrap when they bought a new Outback. She'd sold it the day before my loyale died. Still seems pretty bizarre to me. Anyway, I traded the old one in against the one at the lot, and for $400 cash, I have a "resurrected" Loyale... that started fountaining fluids pretty much the instant I dropped it off the trailer and warmed it up. Ugh. Anyway, good to see another Loyale owner posting here! Our cars won't be the same colour or configuration for long, I'm willing to bet. It'll be interesting to see what directions we take our same(ish) cars. Good luck, cheers! Also, Subarudude, how do I tell what model I have in my '92 loyale? I have the motor from the old one on reserve, but if I can replace this one with something stouter and more reliable, ill jump at the chance. I bought my first Loyale because my research indicated that early 90's subies get good mileage and run like tanks if you maintain them, so here I am| making my GM AND Mopar family members ashamed to admit they know me ;-) Edited June 4, 2012 by 801Ruckus missing relevant question Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knoxuni Posted June 4, 2012 Author Share Posted June 4, 2012 I think you should just swap an EA81 in it. No timing belts, let alone a stupid timing belt design. Those EA82s are so much more of a pain maintenance wise. Hell I'll give you a hand on finding a cheap EA81 and swapping them out. You must realize I have become biased against the EA82. I loved those cars for such a long time (and still love the bodies, lots of cargo space and lightweight), have owned 8 or 9 of them. But after owning a few EJs, and my first EA81... I realize I've been missing out on what really gave Subaru their reputation for reliability and durability. how much would a ea81 be and how hard would the swap be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wm_reed Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 I just purchased a 92 Loyale for $700. 4 door sedan, front wheel drive. Only 85K miles. Just replaced waterpump, cam seals, front crank seal, resealed oil pump, and replaced one CV Axle. This forum has been an awesome help! I need further help with adjusting the timing and with a Check Engine Code. The book says to hook the green conectors together before adjusting timing. The only green connector I found is near the firewall by the brake fluid (nothing under the dash by the fuse box). Is this the correct green connector to connect together? The book also tells me that the "Check Engine light" will illuminate. Unfortunaltely mine is already illuminated (flashing a "34" code - EGR). When I connect the green connector the "Check Engine" light extinguishes. Any further advice would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXJ Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 (edited) I am going to do a reseal but Is there a parts list for what I need any were? Is it hard as it looks? it's my understanding there's only 3 major seals to be done for a reseal of the pump same as in above pic... don't tap these in too deep, they want to be flush or you risk closing off ports.. there's a big O-ring here in front of the mickey mouse ring (not all that clear in the pic but you can't miss it when your pump is out as far as a parts list, don't know if I saved the #s...will post if found but someone here will know....check ebay, amazon, local auto store. *edit: .. just remembered ...you have to take your timing belts off...thus timing belt covers, thus fan pulley bolt, fan ("clutch" fan...am learning ************ here too).... so yeah, if doing this with the engine in, it's prob a pain in the rump roast.....leave the timing belt covers off after all is said and done and become part of the coverless cult...makes sense to me Edited June 4, 2012 by RXJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wm_reed Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Most of the auto parts stores on line (Auto parts warehouse, rock auto, etc) have a kit for the oil pump (kit includes: Mickey Mouse o-ring, pump seal, and body o-ring). I suggest using grease to hold the Mickey o-ring in place while installing. Cost is about $12. Napa sell it all seperately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knoxuni Posted June 5, 2012 Author Share Posted June 5, 2012 (edited) ok I got all the stuff to reseal my motor starting soon also. what is a nicer sounding muffler than the 20yr old on thats on it? mine is falling appart and i am looking for a new one. JUST the muffler tho the rest of exhaust is good Edited June 5, 2012 by knoxuni Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXJ Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 I suggest using grease to hold the Mickey o-ring in place while installing. make note of that knoxuni.. why didn't i think of that?.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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