john40iowa Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Sorry to ask a dumb question. It has been something like 25 years since I have replaced an accessory belt; next week I will replace them and the Tensioner as well. To save unnecessary steps, with the tensioner loose do I still need to loosen the alternator? Not lazy, but don't want to "Make work" either. Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogrekhan Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Hey, On set ups that use a tensioner you only need to back off the tensioner to remove the belt. A word of advice , go easy on that tensioner..too much torque on it and you might end up replacing it as well hehe. Jeremy.S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPX Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Not sure what year and model you are referring to. But for many 2.2Ls and I think even the 2.5L, you need to loosen the alternator tensioner to get that belt off before changing the AC belt and ultimately the timing belt. Make sure you also loose the pivot bolt of the alternator so it is easier to loosen or tighten the tensioner. Then tighten the pivot bolt after you have the tension set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john40iowa Posted May 31, 2012 Author Share Posted May 31, 2012 Thanks. With 200 K and irritating squeak the tensioner is going as well 2.5 sohc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehanz123 Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Idk if I should replace mine myself, I have a 2002 impreza wrx nd the timing belt needs to be replaced. But my mechanic is too scared to do it nd says I should take it to a Subaru mechanic. It is that hard of a fix? And anyone know how much this type of labor costs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikevan10 Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 No, it is not very hard to change the timing belt(s) if you have a modicum of mechanical ability and a few hand tools. And if your "mechanic" is afraid to do it you need to find a real mechanic. My opinion. YMMV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1997reduxe Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 It seems like we're talking about two different belts, but my advice is be very careful about taking advice on this forum, as invaluable as it is. A lot of the people on here have vast amounts of automotive and/or technical experience, and it's easy to think from reading their experience that you can just pitch in and get it done... Which, you can, only nowhere as easily or quickly as they will. I did a timing belt job once, it took me about two weeks because all the way along I found the "other" parts I hadn't planned on, "other" tools I didn't know I'd need...Plus that when I reassembled it I aligned the crank pulley incorrectly and had to take it apart then do that part again. It was lucky it worked after my initial screw up. AND if you don't get the belt right you can screw the engine up. (Mine was a 97.) I learned a whole valuable lot though. Then I found a guy here in Houston who would do the TB job including water pump and all pulleys and seals tensioner AND reseal oil pump for 180 dollars. I'd never do it again. Just my 2 centavos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 Just remember. On the alt belt to loosen the jamb nut on the tensioner pulley before starting to loosen the long adjustment bolt. That little cast aluminum piece is ratehr expensive dealer item and a trip to dealer. That long bolt is a bit pricey for what it is also. I sell these tensioners used because so many folks screw them up. Sometimes you can remove the timing belt covers and then the 2 bolts that hold the tensioner easier thean reaching that jamb nut. Often when disassebling the engine I do it this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john40iowa Posted June 1, 2012 Author Share Posted June 1, 2012 For clarity The timing belt is not due yet. That is way beyond my expertise and time available. Gladly we pay a good shop to perform the 100K service; I ordered a brand new tensioner and long bolt. Thanks for the sound advise, this will be followed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psychocandy Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 Then I found a guy here in Houston who would do the TB job including water pump and all pulleys and seals tensioner AND reseal oil pump for 180 dollars. I'd never do it again. Just my 2 centavos. KEE-RIST! I was about to do the TB (plus replacing idlers, water pump, etc) myself when I read this. I'd easily pay someone $200 to do it for me. so I called around to a couple shops. Both estimates started at $1200!!! I love California, but sometimes I hate it too! p.s. I'm confident in my ability to do this job (have worked as a motorcycle tech), but I wanted to ask some advice. Is it really necessary to have the #1 cylinder at TDC (that's what my shop manual says, and I don't have a compression gauge, I could do the old stick a screwdriver down the spark plug hole trick, but if I don't have to...), or do i just need to have all the timing marks lined up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 Both estimates started at $1200!!!. Lucky you, psychocandy--you can have the thrill and satisfaction of doing it yourself, all the while smiling as you mentally add up all the money you're saving! Forget TDC, just line up all the timing marks. Remember, you're using the little hash marks--NOT the arrows. And use the opportunity to replace the water pump, the idlers, the cam & crank seals and re-seal the oil pump. Use the search function here on USMB--lots of good discussion and some excellent links to other resources. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psychocandy Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 Lucky you, psychocandy--you can have the thrill and satisfaction of doing it yourself, all the while smiling as you mentally add up all the money you're saving! Forget TDC, just line up all the timing marks. Remember, you're using the little hash marks--NOT the arrows. And use the opportunity to replace the water pump, the idlers, the cam & crank seals and re-seal the oil pump. Use the search function here on USMB--lots of good discussion and some excellent links to other resources. Good luck. I figured, just wanted to check. I found a guy's walk-through for the TB job on his WRX. It looks pretty much the same, except I should have the old style tensioner, and the WRX has more idlers. Plus, we don't have the TB guides, do we? I was gonna do everything but the oil pump. I guess I might as well though. Not scoffing at the satisfaction of a job well done, I'm sure I'll actually sorta enjoy doing it. But I was TOTALLY prepared to have someone else do it for <$200. lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 Didn;t see any mention of replacing the timing belt in the OPs question, so I assume he just wants to replace AC and Alt/PS belts. Take off the belt guards and toss them in the trash. (or don't if you really want to keep them) The pivot bolt for the alternator holds the belt guard on that side so it has to be loosened then the guard has a slip section that allows it to simply slide out of the way without removing the pivot bolt. Loosen the lock bolt on the adjuster and spin the adjuster out about 1.5" - 2". to allow the belt to slip off the alt pulley. The AC belt tensioner has a lock nut that is blocked by the cooling fan assembly, you need a 12mm 0 offset box end to loosen it. Or remove the fan by removing the coolant reservoir (two bolts then lift straight up) and the 4 bolts that hold the fan to the radiator (one top, two right side when viewed from above, one bottom) unplug the harness in the lower right corner, then lift straight out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1997reduxe Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 I figured, just wanted to check.Not scoffing at the satisfaction of a job well done, I'm sure I'll actually sorta enjoy doing it. But I was TOTALLY prepared to have someone else do it for <$200. lol. Remember, just calling around for random quotes, you can sometimes find better recommendations and prices through searching for members in your area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehanz123 Posted June 3, 2012 Share Posted June 3, 2012 Yeah estimates start at a grand in California! And I have a 2002 wrx.. I reealy wouldnt want to mess up this motor :/. Anyone have any connections for a Subaru guy in socal? Lol Also I know this isn't the forum but I have 1200. Wat should I fix first. Tining belt? Bad synchros/bearings? Clutch? Brakes? Or get a dyno tune? I just got out of surgery so I'm trying to plan for when I recover Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now