MilesAway1980 Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 (edited) Hi all, Just removed the brake drums on my friend's 1987 Subaru GL. 2WD. The rear drums are this style: where the brake drum itself rides on the wheel bearings. However, I don't have a manual for the car, so I don't know the install torque. I know on some vehicles I've done before when it comes to wheel bearings, it's something like: Torque to 100 ft/lbs. Loosen. Torque to 75 ft/lbs. Sets the bearings, then resets the axle nut torque. Can someone give me the specifics for these drums? I'd appreciate it. Thanks. Edited June 3, 2012 by MilesAway1980 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stubies Subie Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 150 foot lbs, make sure the edge of the cone washer is smooth on the side and not grooved or you'll never get it tight. it should look like the one in the picture. cone washer goes on first, then the flat washer with the raised part out, (some say "OUT" on the side that goes against the castle nut), install the castle nut, torque to 150 ft lbs, and install the cotter pin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesAway1980 Posted June 1, 2012 Author Share Posted June 1, 2012 Thanks for the reply. However, that's not how this one is set up. It doesn't have anything like that cone washer. The setup is like this: - Large wheel bearing - Hub/Drum - Small wheel bearing - Thick disc washer (not a perfect circle, one edge is flat) - Thin, flexible sheet metal washer - Axle nut (not a castle nut. No cotter pin.) The theaded end of the axle itself has a groove/slot in it. The thick washer is about 1mm thick, is flat on one edge, and has a tab on the inside to go into the groove/slot and keep it from rotating. The thin sheet/washer has a tab like the thick washer, and then one edge is bent over to slide over the flat edge of the thick washer. The nut is then held in place by bending a corner of the thin sheet/washer up. I don't know if this would have the same torque since it's a different setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 yours is 2wd gets done like a us rwd front wheel just tite and back off a hair lock nut with tabs make shure spins freely the not should not be tight it just hold berrings in place make shure the tab washer is in good shape i whould buy new ones from dealer anyway as they are uhasly in bad shape and not very exspensive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 Your picture is of a 4wd drum,hence the confusion. Those big torques will kill 2wd bearings in very short order. For 2wds,snug the nut while spinning the wheel. Back off until you can feel a little bit of play. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesAway1980 Posted June 3, 2012 Author Share Posted June 3, 2012 Thanks for the replies. I didn't realize those were the 4WD drums. Is that because they have the grooves inside? Other than that, they look extremely similar. I used the method for tightening them by feel, backing off slightly, and then hand tightening the nut and locking it in place. The wheels spun freely and were nice and solid. Seemed to do the trick really well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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