dgarlepp Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 Hi, I picked up a 2.2 engine from a 1995 Legacy L, 2 wheel drive. From the research I've done I should have no problems putting it in my 1995 Legacy all wheel drive. Correct? Both cars are 1995. one is FWD one is AWD. I have the engine in my garage right now, it has 66,000 miles. Should I check or do anything to the engine while it's out of the car. I see no oil leaks. Thanks for any help Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 Should both be dual port heads. Both have EGR? You should be good to go. I reseal them. The 2 O rings (back sode of pass head and behind cam sensor drivers front), Crank, cam seals. Idler kit and timing belt and spark plugs while it's out. VC gaskets are up to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 I would at least replace the separator plate and the wrist pin access cover o-ring (the diamond plate on the left side of the block). And maybe reseal the oil pan. The rest can be done with the engine in the car, but it's much easier to do with the engine out on a stand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 I just had that swap done last Fall. I had a '95, 2.2 put in my wife's 98 OBW. With the motor still on a stand, suggest you replace the timing belt, and the tensioners, the water pump, and seals. Good cheap kits available on ebay. Much easier to do the work, when the motor is out of the car. A couple of months ago, I had to replace the crank sensor and the knock sensor. Be sure you know what you are doing, when re-seating the engine to an automatic transmission, if that is what you have. Do the seating wrong, and you will ruin the A/T, so be careful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 Can't believe I forgot the oil seperator/baffle plate! GOTTA reseal it!! Or some folks here upgrade to the metal one - which also requires new screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 the 95 ej22 is a non interference engine, so the only thing you HAVE to do is the oil separator plate on the back of the block behind the flex plate or flywheel. fair tax mentioned this. buy the new plate / cover w/ screws , (subaru ~$35) and the ultra gray sealant (local $5). every thing else can be done after the install. BUT if you have the money and some time, oil seals on the front, cam, crank, oil pump (subaru ~$30) and ALL new timing components, belt, all idlers, and water pump (ebay ~$130). NKG plugs (<$10 local) and wires (subaru ~$40) are a good idea. valve cover gaskets if needed, (~$28 local). intake manifold gaskets - probably need exhaust manifold gaskets - need pcv - ? alt and AC belts oil 5 qt. filter coolant 1.5 gal. tips: read up on the timing belt alignment marks and re-seating the torque convert - search torqueconverter don't dent the trans oil pan flex plate to torque converter bolts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whatnow490 Posted December 23, 2014 Share Posted December 23, 2014 Did an engine swap in my 95 legacy. Did my timing and water pump before install used my intake wiring harness etc replacing gaskets on the intake and had to buy a few hoses that were a lil worn and broke during install. I started the car once installed before i hooked everything else up radiator alternator exhaust just to hear it run for a brief second. Engine fired up so i shut it off and went ahead an installed the rest but once i was going to start filling the radiator and bleed it. I turn the key and get noting as if the battery is disconnected. Any one have any ideas. only lights i have on the dash are that a door is open bc i didnt close my driver door when turning the key and the air bag light comes on too but nothing else no engaging of the starter like the car is dead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 23, 2014 Share Posted December 23, 2014 1. main fuse is blown 2. battery is dead 3. terminals are loose or corroded 4. battery cables Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whatnow490 Posted December 23, 2014 Share Posted December 23, 2014 (edited) Hooked up the battery to jumper cables cleaned my terminals checked that they were also tight checked fuses pulled each one the sbfs too all looked good had spares and swapped the sbfs out. Double checked timing just to be sure. Is the main Fuse located somewhere other than the two fuse boxes in the car.one under hood other drivers side floor board. Edited December 23, 2014 by whatnow490 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 Did you verify the connections on the starter are tight and the start wire didn't fall off while you were putting things back together? Checked the ground connection on the engine? Did you check the fusible link in the under-hood fuse box? The one that looks like a wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whatnow490 Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 Yea i made sure everything was tight. Its a ground issue. The starter might be done to not sure yet but used my jumper cables to make solid ground from the battery and got a few more lights on the dash and can actually hear a faint click when turning over. Which could be bc my battery is dieing or the starter but gonna be cleaning up some grounds and prob installing a few more and maybe a starter change.. Thanks for the help... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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