cohophysh Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 1990 legacy 360k 2.2 5 speed, clutch replace 120k ago. I noticed that I have to shift up a lot sooner or else the car bogs down (lose of power). Those of you that own a manual probably know what i am talking about, you get the hard chug chug which tells you to shift up. This happens in 2-5 gears. Could it be the clutch or am I having a fuel sending problem. I hope this makes sense Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hohieu Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 It doesn't sound like a clutch issue -- more like a fuel or ignition issue. When was the last time you replaced the fuel filter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cohophysh Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share Posted June 6, 2012 I am sure it needs to be replaced, still not convinced that it isn't the clutch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hohieu Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 I suppose the chug-chug-chug you describe could be a slipping clutch. Does the tach skip around when this happens? In other words, does the engine seem to be racing when these symptoms appear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 If your RPMs go up, but speed stays the same. It's the clutch. Otherwise, catalytic converter or fuel system. When was the last it had some quality time with new spark plugs and new filters? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cohophysh Posted June 7, 2012 Author Share Posted June 7, 2012 I suppose the chug-chug-chug you describe could be a slipping clutch. Does the tach skip around when this happens? In other words, does the engine seem to be racing when these symptoms appear? no, if that was happening I would know it was the clutch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 if the rpms stay the same its not your clutch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cohophysh Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 Ya, I am wondering about compression, hopefully the weather clears this weekend and I can get a closer look. What other symptoms would appear if it were the cat converter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 Compression is probably fine. Fine for an engine with 360k anyway. Plugged cat you typically get a rotten egg smell. Engine doesn't make power at higher rpms or under heavy load because of excessive back pressure in the exhaust. It's unable to push out the exhaust fast enough to make room for fresh air/fuel to come in so power drops. The cat may also get very hot, and in some cases glow red / orange. There are a few tests that can be done to check for a plugged cat. A vacuum gauge attached to the engine will tell you if vacuum is dropping when the power loss occurs, which can be an indicator. Testing the back pressure of the exhaust is the best way but can be difficult without the right tools. You can also remove the cats and inspect them visually for obstruction. Do you have emissions testing in your area? A shop that does emissions generally will have the equipment to do a diagnostic on the cats without removing them. If you don't have emissions testing, you can gut them for a temporary solution, though in the end you probably should "replace" them. Other causes, as said before, clogged fuel and/or air filters. Power loss can also be caused by a dirty MAF sensor, bad knock sensor, bad throttle position sensor, low fuel pressure, jumped timing. The PCV valve can cause running issues if it gets clogged/ gummed up. Loose intake hoses, cracked or loose breather hoses (from the valve covers to the intake tube). Lots of things can cause power issues. Start with the simple stuff, give everything a good checking over and do some general tune-up stuff if it hasn't been done in a while. Plugs, wires, filters. Any filter more than a year old just needs to be changed anyway whether it helps or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cohophysh Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 sounds good, thanks for all the advice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cohophysh Posted June 9, 2012 Author Share Posted June 9, 2012 gonna go do a tune up on it this morning. will report back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cohophysh Posted June 11, 2012 Author Share Posted June 11, 2012 well replaced plugs, PVC, gas filter, oil and oil filter and voila...power back...didn't realize how long ago I replaced the plugs...they were showing a lot of wear. Also, I always forget about the PVC valve... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hohieu Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 Thanks for the good report. I'm glad to hear that some routine maintenance resolved your issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 I missed this one somehow. Glad to hear its running well and a simple tune-up was all that was needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cohophysh Posted June 15, 2012 Author Share Posted June 15, 2012 well now it is acting up again, upon acceleration it really starts to sputter..., especially starting off in first gear...fuel problem or???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cohophysh Posted June 15, 2012 Author Share Posted June 15, 2012 oh here, I forgot this:banghead: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uniberp Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 well now it is acting up again, upon acceleration it really starts to sputter..., especially starting off in first gear...fuel problem or???? Techron. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cohophysh Posted June 16, 2012 Author Share Posted June 16, 2012 what a dork...I think one of the plug wires was just a little loose...i feel like a turd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 It means nothing now, but I was kinda thinking that yesterday. I figured you would figure it out. :-p New plug wires can be difficult to "click" onto the plugs. Double check them all if you haven't already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cohophysh Posted June 21, 2012 Author Share Posted June 21, 2012 weird enough the plug wire keeps popping off on the drivers side. I probably need to replace them but even so I feel them snap into place but after a few minutes it pops off again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 The boot creates a seal around the plug well in the head. Put some silicone grease around the top lip of the boot where it fits into the head. That'll let it slip into the hole easier. Is there any way to describe that without it sounding dirty? :-p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cohophysh Posted June 21, 2012 Author Share Posted June 21, 2012 got all of the plugs to stay in, still running like crapola. I hate to start throwing parts at it and seeing what sticks. i did pull a couple codes off but I don't know how old they are...temp sensor, knock sensor, mass air...however, it has overheated in the past and I did have the mass air flow disconnected one time so I would expect those codes to be on...maybe need to replace knock sensor and plug wires. It really is a strange problem cause sometimes it will run just fine but then mash the pedal and...sputter sputter...any help is appreciated as always. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 Knock sensor is easy to replace and makes a big difference in the way the engine runs. They go bad quite often can cause all sort of trouble including misfires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hohieu Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Coolant temp. sensor is also easy to replace. Does it stumble only after the engine has reached operating temp.? If so, the car may be running in open loop and, thus, running too rich. Do you smell unburned gasoline from the exhaust? If you're having power issues at higher rpm as alluded to in your original post, then it may very well be a defective knock sensor, as suggested by Fairtax, that is causing the engine to run in safe mode in order to forestall serious engine damage. Either way, both parts are relatively inexpensive and easy to replace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cohophysh Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 thanks for that, I was going to replace the temp sensor as well since it is only a couple bucks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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