TheLoyale Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Is this nick, too deep? Is the block shot? This is on the mating surface of the cylinder bore. Subruise has new HG set and Re-Seal kit. Nay or yay on the Block? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor pole Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 I would be weary in using this block without resurfacing... very little material left for the sealing ring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted June 10, 2012 Share Posted June 10, 2012 thank you Tom for posting this. usmb w the worlds smartest dumbphone does not include starting threads nor does it allow me to post pics very easily (i know how, my phone makes me homicidal). i have another block, but it has a bunch of calsified looking deposits (tap water?). i already cleaned this block up but apperently between tear down at the old place and here, well you saw it. advice????? thank you Ben, and thanx for the gaskets/seals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 10, 2012 Author Share Posted June 10, 2012 I wonder what a machine shop would charge to resurface and Deck both sides of the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted June 10, 2012 Share Posted June 10, 2012 more than zero =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 10, 2012 Share Posted June 10, 2012 Line up a new HG with the block - chances are that's inside the fire ring of the gasket. In which case it's a non-issue. Block surfaceing runs about $50 through my machinist. I do it on all the engines I rebuild but not just for a new HG. I use a "fine" roto-loc style disc in my die grinder to very lightly and carefully clean up block surfaces. If you need to do it by hand get the brown (coarse) scotch-brite pads. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor pole Posted June 10, 2012 Share Posted June 10, 2012 No problem Rob, I am just glad used and they wont get lost or damaged sitting in my garage. thanks for the exhaust btw:headbang: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 10, 2012 Share Posted June 10, 2012 As GD said, that looks like it will be inside the ring. Hold the new gasket over it and see how far it extends if any beyond the edge of the ring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 well, it protruded under the fire ring on the gasket so im not gonna use that block. so motor #4 will be a refurb of motor #2. waaaay dirtier:-\ oh well. cleaning time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 What you could try is take a solid sanding block with 80 grit wet/dry sandpaper on it and go over the whole surface area of that side. Try to be consistant as possible. Hard to tell how deep it is from the pic...and you can do it dry. If it's an EA 82 the pistons have 0 deck height so put them both at TDC as you go and clean them up as well. Then see what you have. I read about it years ago from a Subaru mechanic who did all like that with headgasket jobs, and I've done it with success as well. At this point, it's not going to hurt anything to try. Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 thanx Doug, you are right, it wont hurt right now. but it will hurt if it wasnt up to snuff and my cheapness allowed me to build yet another ea82. ill give it the old bodyman once over with the sanding block. as far as cleaning the pistons goes the hgs did a wonderfull job of steam cleaning them to a shiny, almost brand new finish. i think what ill do is build the other block and then take the better heads off the current tired, pos motor or my other spares and build a 'b' motor, ready for drop in next time i blow one up. RV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 12, 2012 Author Share Posted June 12, 2012 I wonder if you could just fill that gouge with JB Weld, and carefully grind it down so its nice and flush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 I wonder if you could just fill that gouge with JB Weld, and carefully grind it down so its nice and flush. Ummm,,, No. Pressures and heat would take it back to what you started with, quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 12, 2012 Author Share Posted June 12, 2012 Ummm,,, No. Pressures and heat would take it back to what you started with, quickly. Oh c'mon! They say you can fix a Cylinder bore with it! :-p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 i think id jb the bore before id try this on the hg surface. i just feel like the ''seal'' would blow much easier at the top than inside for some reason. and when exactly would i ever need to repair the bore in a ea82? lol we swim in them up here, not to mention ive never seen one without factory cross hatching still there. maybe ill do it on that block just to humor you Tom =). @ Quidam: i see what you are saying about sanding the pistons now (zero deck clearance= possible interference ea82, and that sucks even worse than these already do). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 I would just have the block decked. Or you could o-ring it. Lol. Hey it would solve the problem. Friend of mine built his own block o-ringing tool. Fun excercise in basic machining work. GD 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 13, 2012 Author Share Posted June 13, 2012 I agree with GD, as I said before. I would get the block decked when you have the cash, to have an extra good block. O-ringing tool eh, I have no idea. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ISK-200-GRM/?rtype=10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 (edited) i think id jb the bore before id try this on the hg surface. i just feel like the ''seal'' would blow much easier at the top than inside for some reason. and when exactly would i ever need to repair the bore in a ea82? lol we swim in them up here, not to mention ive never seen one without factory cross hatching still there. maybe ill do it on that block just to humor you Tom =). @ Quidam: i see what you are saying about sanding the pistons now (zero deck clearance= possible interference ea82, and that sucks even worse than these already do). Ha, well, JB Weld has it's limits, temperature wise, and I'm not sure where that is. I'm thinking around 300* F it cooks. No worries with interference (even if you don't shave the pistons) as I've checked all those clearances. Here is the last one I did dry and the hardest part is getting the dowels out of the block. PB Blaster, Mapp gas propane torch and vice grips will take them out though, without hurting the block. No cracking and such to worry about like cast iron. It expands faster than the dowels. I took 80 grit to it, then 100, 120, 150, 180, then 220. Just a note, I go straight for the 80 grit first on aluminum, whether it's an intake flange, exhaust flange, or these: This one I did wet with water outside some time ago. Doug Edited June 13, 2012 by Quidam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 o ring an ea82:brow: ha ha:D good one GD. not that i have any machining skills beyond that of a block of marble for heads (damn that works good). I was toying with the idea of splitting the case and trying that trick out on the block. ill probably end up doing Doug's trick/method. i already maxed out the budget on this block by buying it for $40 complete lol. even sandpaper seems a bit of an expense........yup im cheap. real cheap, and broke to boot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 (edited) Just some thoughts I want to put here. I have bought sandpaper from an ebay seller for a few years now. You pick the grits and quantity of each in whatever size pack you want to buy. I usually buy 25 at a time for about a buck a sheet. I have three different size sanding blocks and I do heads like this as well. Doing it wet with water will save some money vrs doing it dry, as it's easier on the paper. Subaru prints that you can surface these EA 82 blocks up to .016 and gives the warpage/out of square limits at .003. Say you take .015 off the block, with a .040 headgasket, that still leaves .025 piston to head clearance. Anything you take off the block will raise your compression ratio. It also lowers the engines chances of detonation with reduced quench. And FYI, I've been told by people who have tested these things on a dyno, there is nothing to be gained by going tighter than .025 piston to head clearance. This all brings up the question of whether or not the block is square after doing these things. Subaru specs are up to .003 out of square on the deck. This can be measured with the case split...but I've never been far off from perfect, just being consistent in the process. Take most of the meat off with the 80 grit. Now, about that out of square thing. True story. A family member has a Modified Stock pulling truck. You know, the ones they pull sleds with and see who can pull it the furthest. Typically they have $20,000.00 or so engines in them. He bought a new 426 Hemi Chrysler block, stroked and bored it to 471 c.i.d. to fit the class rules. Built by someone who builds these motors for a living. He competed with it and blew a headgasket. Replaced head gasket went out and blew it again. So. They tear it down, new head gaskets strap it to a dyno, $500.00 per session. It was making 650 hp under load and still climbing when it blew another head gasket. :brow:They took it back to the machinist (Fowler Engines in Columbus, Ohio) where it was found the block was .003 out of square. Fixed that and no problems since. Didn't put it back on the dyno with the cost but it turns 7200 rpm under the load of the sled while it usually makes full pulls. Not sure what kind of power it actually makes...enough to win a good percentage of the time. So out of square a bit on one of these shouldn't even be a problem, unless you get it up to 650 hp:D. Doug Edited June 14, 2012 by Quidam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 if you move the decimal point you will see my target hp range for this motor. ive blocked out enough panels to feel comfortable trying this method. that and i got 2 sets of hgs and heads so whateva. thanx again for the info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 oops dp'd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 I agree with GD, as I said before. I would get the block decked when you have the cash, to have an extra good block. O-ringing tool eh, I have no idea. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ISK-200-GRM/?rtype=10 A friend of mine built his own o-ringing tool for his 1.3 Suzuki Samurai motor. True story. O-ringed the block with stainless steel aircraft lock wire. He put custom forged 8:1 pistons in it - pistons were made from Honda motorcycle forged piston blanks. He runs 10 psi into it with an IHI-VF7 from an EA82T. Modified Ford Probe intercooler, blow-through DGEV Weber carb setup.... Masarati BiTurbo rising rate fuel pressure regulator...... Makes about 120 HP from the little monster. :-p We are in the process of switching it over to MegaSquirt-II using an EA82 SPFI throttle body. Fun, fun. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 if your stuck you could try gentaly peening the aluminum outwards from cly to make that spot higher and then level it off could be fixed thiss way or plane them i charge 75 bucks to plane block haves while you watch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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