Gloyale Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 Are you positive you have the fuel supply and return lines correct? switched maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaingoatgruff Posted July 31, 2012 Author Share Posted July 31, 2012 Compression looks a bit low but is probably fine. What are PCSV and VCSV? Can you hook up a diagnostic scanner to this setup? I kinda wonder what the ECT sensor says. Might double check that and make sure it's plugged in all the way. Kind of a PITA to get to under the intake with all the wire harness and hoses in the way. PCSV = pressure control solenoid valve VCSV = vent control solenoid valve I just got ahold of a scanner today, had to borrow one from a friend at school. The scanner communicates fine, shows codes for fuel temp sensor and fuel level sensor (because they're not hooked up) but nothing else. I have gone through and triple checked connections, especially the pita ones. I'll have to look up specs for the coolant temp sensor, I haven't checked that one yet... I'm wondering, just how much can I check with this scanner considering the engine doesn't run? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaingoatgruff Posted July 31, 2012 Author Share Posted July 31, 2012 Are you positive you have the fuel supply and return lines correct? switched maybe? I am positive they're correct. I considered that possibility a while ago and rechecked them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 Wonder Wedge Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 What I'm curious to hear is why the cranking becomes "labored" or slows down when both fuel AND spark are plugged in... hmmm... have you tried cranking with a WOT? or a partial throttle? How are the voltages to the coil with KOEO (key on engine off) and while cranking? Were the injector pluses (flashes with the noid) strong or weak? Maybe the coil isnt punching enough across the plugs? I know you've tested for spark at the wires, but how do the plugs look? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaingoatgruff Posted August 1, 2012 Author Share Posted August 1, 2012 What I'm curious to hear is why the cranking becomes "labored" or slows down when both fuel AND spark are plugged in... hmmm... have you tried cranking with a WOT? or a partial throttle? How are the voltages to the coil with KOEO (key on engine off) and while cranking? Were the injector pluses (flashes with the noid) strong or weak? Maybe the coil isnt punching enough across the plugs? I know you've tested for spark at the wires, but how do the plugs look? I am confused by how the engine cranks slow with everything connected. I've only checked voltages at components with key on engine off. I recently noticed the volts drop to 10.5 at the battery while cranking and I'm not sure what the minimal voltage required is. The battery from my truck is too big to try so I'm working on getting a friend with a small car to come over so I can try his battery. I've also been thinking - even though its far fetched - could an Optima red top show 12V but not have the amps? I vaguely remember hearing of these types of batteries testing out as fine but not working so I'm just wondering. I cranked at WOT, only makes it backfire a little more. The plugs are black and reek of unburnt fuel. I tested the resistances of my coil and the secondary resistances are low for both front and rear. Spec says 17K to 24K ohms and I've got about 12K on each. Could that make a weak spark? Primaries are good, 0.6 ohms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaingoatgruff Posted August 4, 2012 Author Share Posted August 4, 2012 This afternoon I hooked up a battery charger set to 55amp start assist. The engine didn't seem to have any trouble turning over and even fired a second like it wanted to start then nothing but cranking. I tried a few more times, got some backfiring, no start. White smoke at the tailpipe, normal exhaust smell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaruguru Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 Are you getting fuel? I know my surge tank needed to be primed before the FI pump would work to get fuel to the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaingoatgruff Posted August 4, 2012 Author Share Posted August 4, 2012 (edited) Are you getting fuel? I know my surge tank needed to be primed before the FI pump would work to get fuel to the engine. Yes, the surge tank, injector pump, and canister filter were primed before I attempted to start it. I have 36psi fuel pressure at the supply line on the manifold. I also checked injector pulse with a noid light and each plug showed a bright steady flashing. Tried swapping injectors after suspecting leakage, so I've had two sets in there and that second set (the ones in there now) worked fine when they were shelved. Thank you for your suggestion, subaruguru. I'm wondering now why I'm getting white smoke out the tailpipe. ccording to my understanding excess fuel is black smoke, oil burning is blue to white, coolant vaporizing is white and you can smell the difference. My exhaust smells like burnt fuel and nothing else when I get white smoke. Anybody know what conditions would cause this? Edited August 4, 2012 by mountaingoatgruff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaingoatgruff Posted August 4, 2012 Author Share Posted August 4, 2012 (edited) CTS shows about 2400 ohms with engine at outdoor temp this morning, about 70deg. Seems normal. Just like every other goddamn thing I check on this miserable failure of a project car. I give up. The Brat's for sale as soon as I figure out what I'll take for it. I'll consider a trade for a running Subaru. Edited August 4, 2012 by mountaingoatgruff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tincan Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 (edited) White smoke... Sputtering... Couple fires... It's checking out normal on all ends... Have you, by any chance, checked that the heads/gaskets are seated properly? Perhaps you tore or misaligned the head gasket while putting it together. I could see why it might happen if you had the engine "upright", as gravity could assist it pulling out of place. I just figure, well, you've checked everything else, and that's the only thing I could see otherwise that could keep your compression lower on two cylinders and higher on the other two. Worth checking... Edited August 4, 2012 by tincan revising grammar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaingoatgruff Posted August 4, 2012 Author Share Posted August 4, 2012 (edited) White smoke... Sputtering... Couple fires... It's checking out normal on all ends... Have you, by any chance, checked that the heads/gaskets are seated properly? Perhaps you tore or misaligned the head gasket while putting it together. I could see why it might happen if you had the engine "upright", as gravity could assist it pulling out of place. I just figure, well, you've checked everything else, and that's the only thing I could see otherwise that could keep your compression lower on two cylinders and higher on the other two. Worth checking... I never touched the heads so there's no reason to suspect any problems there. This engine ran fine, I put in a different wiring harness, switched some parts to OBD2, added the fuel system I described earlier and now it won't run. Like I said, I'm done . I need my spare time for welding not hopeless wrenching so the Brat will most likley be parted out to minimize my already ridiculous losses. I've been bummed as hell for months, made an rump roast of myself slaughtering an otherwise good Brat, wasted more money than I'll ever cop to and worst of all I've been short and snappy with my family for too long. I'll post an ad in the parts for sale section when I'm ready to start tearing into it. I'd also trade it and all associated parts for a TIG machine of 200+ amps with ACHF and waveform manipulation, I don't mind older units. Edited August 4, 2012 by mountaingoatgruff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaruguru Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 Just by chance did you switch the crank gear? IIRC the OBD2 will have multiple tabs for the Crank angle sensor instead of the 4 or so that OBD1 has. just a thought. I was at my wits end with this hatch i got but then i found a small glitch i had overlooked, man is it fun to drive. Cheers R. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tincan Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 I never touched the heads so there's no reason to suspect any problems there. This engine ran fine, I put in a different wiring harness, switched some parts to OBD2, added the fuel system I described earlier and now it won't run. Well if it hadn't gone to white smoke until recently... From what I remember, cranking an engine can cause arching of the plugs to the cylinder head... That alone, after so long, can ruin head gaskets. On the other hand, just go back to ODB1 when you have time again. If it ran before, the least you could do before giving up is try putting it back to the way it was before dumping the project. Just a suggestion as a last resort. I can only imagine it's very frustrating, but, it ain't over 'til it's really over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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