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96 Legacy stalls when coming to a stop


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1996 Legacy LSi. EJ18 and FWD (both swapped), been that way for 60,000 miles. runs and drives fine.

 

cuts out sometimes right as i'm coming to a stop. it's only done it a few times and starts right back up immediately. it never cuts out while cruising or accelerating so it hasn't been that big of an issue.

 

crank/cam sensor?

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I did have that on my '96 leg. brighton 2.2L a few times. Usually did it when stopping. The first time there was no CEL until after I tried to restart it quite a bit, then it was for the crank angle sensor I believe it was. It would still start but would be very hesitant to do so and would just die sometimes when stopping. After replacing it, it was oK.

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I did have that on my '96 leg. brighton 2.2L a few times. Usually did it when stopping. The first time there was no CEL until after I tried to restart it quite a bit, then it was for the crank angle sensor I believe it was. It would still start but would be very hesitant to do so and would just die sometimes when stopping. After replacing it, it was oK.

 

great, thanks porc! those are easy enough to swap out and i have a few extra lying around.

 

you're fairly certain it was for the crank and not the cam sensor? i'll start there.

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it's only a 10 minute job...sort of - nothing to remove by the 10mm bolt which i would easily reach on the EJ18 with a ratchet.

 

bolt came out easily...then the debacle started.

 

We will title this mini-series: "How a 10 minute job becomes one hour..."

 

the sensor was seized in the bore. pulled alternator and stuff for easy access. ended up cracking the plastic top/connector piece to bits over time and it all came off and the rest was still in the bore.

 

i had to chisel all the guts out, that wasn't too bad. it was amazing - about a 6 foot bushy strand of cooper wiring just pulled out, it was crazy watching all that unfurl from this tiny part.

 

then the very thin walled shell was still stuck in the bore - almost "one" with the aluminum bore. many small blows with a screw driver and hammer and working my way around the lip i created finally got the top rim folded away from the bore....ah...finally....

 

it was so seized though i had to keep going and chisel all the thin walled metal away from the bore for it to budge from top to bottom. i thought getting it started would be enough to grab it with pliers, etc. then by the time that was done the metal was so deformed it would not come out the bore from the top. so i had to keep striking the metal bit with a screw driver, slowly folding it up into a bit small enough that it fell out the bottom.

 

then i had to pick all the bits out of the timing belt crevices from all the chiseling, etc.

 

anyway - with any luck (since i didn't have any tonight!!!) this fixed the stalling when coming to a stop issue.

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Good ole corrosion! Hope you greased the hell out of that new sensor in case you ever have to replace that.

 

I was going to suggest, since you don't have any CEL codes, that maybe the IAC is sticky. A seafoam treatment may help, and it's always fun to watch. :-p

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These are a real PITA.
nice, you've seen them this bad before? i've rarely removed them so i don't have much experience, i think this may even be the first failure (if it is one) i've personally seen.

 

Good ole corrosion! Hope you greased the hell out of that new sensor
indeed, you know it!

 

I was going to suggest, since you don't have any CEL codes, that maybe the IAC is sticky. A seafoam treatment may help, and it's always fun to watch. :-p
crack head, that's a good suggestion. i don't know if i've ever done it to an EJ - good access point for EJ IAC's?
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GG,

 

They get gaulded in there pretty bad. That's why when folks may be having a problem with the crank sensor I recommend starting to soak it down with their favorite "penetrant" "just incase" it needs to come out.

 

I've tried to remove 12, only 2 were successful and I wasn't sure about one of them (plastic turned a bit within the metal sleeve - so I didn't sell it).

 

They are hard to get ahold of. Often I start with hose clamp pliers. Even after you get the metal that's lelft all wadded up the fight isn't over.

 

I tried to remove a few that I had damaged to list some oil pumps on Ebay and still gave up. I have the cast piece that has the oil pump and sensor in it in a vise smacking the sensor with a drift with no success. Liberal amounts of PB and often liquid wrench overnight. And I'm working on engines out of the car. Gotta be a real nightmare when in the car.

 

I have installed 2 crank sensors. And they were very liberally coated with anti-seize. I also cleaned out the whole with scotchbrite real well.

 

Often a new crank sensor solves an intermittent starting issue it seems. They never seem to die while car is running.

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1.8 should have the big IAC sticking out by the #3 intake runner right? I unplug the MAF, pull the hose off the IAC and start the engine. (unplugging the MAF makes it run Failsafe mode so it will actually run with the big hose unhooked) Hold the throttle open a bit and spray the hell out of the IAC valve with Intake + Throttle Body cleaner. If it smokes out the tail pipe you dun good. :-p

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Mine fortunately was free because I had replaced the oil pump previous to that and coated the jacket of the sensor with antisieze. But it was stuck in there pretty good before that. I kept putting kroil on it and eventually it let loose after a few days. I think Dave had to give his a root canal. :-p

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I wonder if it would still stall if you double footed it
if i get bored i'll turn around at that same stop and see if i can get it to do it - does it almost every time i drive to work in that one stop...it is a very steep incline with the nose of the car pointing up, not sure if that means anything but it must mean more of a load or something. IAC makes sense - it's sticking but only noticeable under certain loads...headed out of town today so can't mess with it til i get back.
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