Suba_GL_87 Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 (edited) 1996 outback wagon 2.5 DOCH after i replaced pair of headgasket.. so, running was pretty good and drove to 25 miles.. somehow the muffler was whiteout of everywhere... look like failure headgasket?? but it's engine running good but look like shake and misfire to me 25 ft lb 51 ft lb 90 lose 90 lose 25 ft lb on 1-2 step 11 ft lb on 3-6 step.. it's correctly? Edited June 21, 2012 by Suba_GL_87 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocei77 Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 Supposed to be two 90 turns on each after that. ie one set of 90 (all bolts)then start the other set. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba_GL_87 Posted June 21, 2012 Author Share Posted June 21, 2012 ya, i mean 90 deg. i did it. not 180** Supposed to be two 90 turns on each after that. ie one set of 90 (all bolts)then start the other set. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 I think what ocei77 was trying to say is that after the final 11 and 25 lbs, there are two more sequences of 90 all the way around. Regardless, that's the way it's supposed to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocei77 Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Not 90 loose. But 90 tight after the poundage settings. reread the sequence in the manual. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba_GL_87 Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 you mean.. 90 deg lose on 1-6step back to 90 deg tight on 1-6 step then lose 90 deg again and then back to tight on 90 deg? 25 ft lb on 1-2 step 11 ft lb on 3-6 step.. it's make a sense? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Not 90 loose. But 90 tight after the poundage settings.reread the sequence in the manual. O. Right, as I said. The final thing you do is 180° on all bolts, 90° at a time. Tighten cylinder head bolts. (1) Apply a coat of engine oil to washers and bolt threads. (2) Tighten all bolts to 29 N·m (3.0 kg-m, 22 ft-lb) in alphabetical sequence. Then tighten all bolts to 69 N·m (7.0 kg-m, 51 ft-lb) in alphabetical sequence. (3) Back off all bolts by 180° first; back them off by 180° again. (4) Tighten bolts (A) and ( to 34 N·m (3.5 kg-m, 25 ft-lb). (5) Tighten bolts ©, (D), (E) and (F) to 15 N·m (1.5 kg-m, 11 ft-lb). (6) Tighten all bolts by 80 to 90° in alphabetical sequence. (7) Further tighten all bolts by 80 to 90° in alphabetical sequence. CAUTION: Ensure that the total “re-tightening angle” [in the two previous steps] do not exceed 180°. That's right out of the FSM. Some versions number the bolts by letter, some do by number. It's the exact same thing. I've used these exact directions many times, and never an issue with it. If you only tightened the head bolts to 25 and 11 ft/lbs, and ran the engine. You've ruined the new head gaskets. Start over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba_GL_87 Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 http://www.uniquemotorsports.com/2011/02/subaru-head-torque-specs-and-sequence/ thats how.. thank, master suba. end of thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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