I could use some help!

[ibroad]

Alright guys, I could use some help.

 

I have 2 different problems:

 

 

Problem 1) There is something wrong with my clutch. When driving for around 10 minutes or more, the clutch will become very soft and doesn't spring back like normal. It's not really sticking to the floor, but it just does return to it's normal position. I actually made a post about this before and people mentioned to replace the clutch hose and slave cylinder which I plan to do very soon. I would just like to know if these problems could be associated.

 

 

Problem 2) When driving my brake light and battery light flash, and today I just realized that when this happens my headlights flash as well. However, the headlights only flash when they are turn on automatically. So, if I actually turn the headlights on they will not flash. Only when they turn on automatically.

 

 

Now I just had my alternator and battery replaced on 4/28/2012, so a couple months ago.

 

 

Questions:

 

1) Could the flashing dash lights be a problem associated with the clutch?

2) Or could they have given me a bad alternator, or put it in wrong?

 

 

Also, the flashing of the brake and batter light is not consistent. It's more sporadic. But it seems to be happening more and more.

 

They gave me a battery test results when I got my brakes done last week and it came back at 12.82V, 737 CCA. But no alternator results.

 

I'm really not sure what to do.

[ibroad]

Alright, I figured out the problem with some help.

 

(Now keep in mind, I just had the alternator and battery replaced a couple months ago (4/28/2012))

 

I decided to go to Advanced Auto and get a battery/charging system test done, so I have something to bring into AAA when I go in tomorrow morning.

 

Now, I got my rear brake pads/rotors replaced just last week (6/16/2012) at this same place AAA place. They did a free complete inspection and did a battery test and the results were as follows:

 

Battery Test-

Rated: 550 CCA

Measured: 737 CCA

Voltage: 12.82 V

 

So as I was saying I went to Advanced Auto and they tested the battery/charging system. It came back with the following results:

 

Battery Test-

Replace Battery

Rated: 550 CCA

Measured: 401 CCA

Voltage: 12.94 V

Temp: 99 F

 

Starter Test-

Cranking Normal

Voltage: 11.59 V

Amps: 0.0 A

Time: 812 mS

 

Charging System Test-

Low Voltage

No Load- 14.30 V

Loaded- 12.15 V

 

"Charging System Problem"

 

 

Now get this. The guy at Advanced Auto told me that obviously there was a problem and I should definitely go back to AAA and let them know.

 

Then I told him I was reading it could be a problem with the ground on the alternator and so he started looking at the cables and pushing them all down.

 

He got to the cable on the alternator with the green connector and he said "Did you see that?" He said that it wasn't pushed down all the way.

 

So I wasn't sure if that was the problem, but I start heading home and there were no more flashing lights anymore and it is definitely running better!

 

BUT

 

Now what do I do? Is my battery ruined? Is the alternator ruined?

 

Should I go back to AAA and have them replace the batter and alternator?

 

Sorry for all the questions, I'm new to all of this and I know you guys know more than anyone.

 

So what would you do in this situation? It was obviously a careless mistake on their part.

 

Is 2 months of this enough to damage the alternator or battery?

 

Picture of the green connector that wasn't secure:

 

 

Thanks for any help

[crazyman03]

Well, as far as if your battery is bad.. probably not.

Battery Test-

Rated: 550 CCA

Measured: 737 CCA

Voltage: 12.82 V

...

Battery Test-

Replace Battery

Rated: 550 CCA

Measured: 401 CCA

Voltage: 12.94 V

Temp: 99 F

 

.. you just have a really good battery is all. The reason why your CCA is a lot lower the 2nd time is because your alternator, obviously, wasnt charging as it should. So the Measured and the "Rated" numbers didn't add up. Did they bring the tester out to the car or did you bring the battery in? Try taking the battery in and do a full test on it. They'll charge it for about 45 minutes and then do a test. The ones that they test it while in the car, yea, they aren't *that* reliable.

 

IIRC, the little green plug is what tells the alternator the actual charge of the battery and whether or not to "full-field" and flat-out charge the battery, or just trickle charge it to keep it up. If it was not seated right, yea, that'll give you sporadic battery dash flashing goo.

 

As far as the clutch, I'm not too sure. do you have any leaks? i'm sure you have all the fluids? did you bleed the clutch after you changed the slave cylinder?

 

edit: if you really doubt if your battery is bad, have it fully tested. Or, just drive it around - It wouldnt be long before it would noticeable that your battery is low since it would be harder to start

 

 

-Justin

Edited June 23, 2012 by crazyman03

[ibroad]

Well, as far as if your battery is bad.. probably not.

 

 

.. you just have a really good battery is all. The reason why your CCA is a lot lower the 2nd time is because your alternator, obviously, wasnt charging as it should. So the Measured and the "Rated" numbers didn't add up. Did they bring the tester out to the car or did you bring the battery in? Try taking the battery in and do a full test on it. They'll charge it for about 45 minutes and then do a test. The ones that they test it while in the car, yea, they aren't *that* reliable.

 

IIRC, the little green plug is what tells the alternator the actual charge of the battery and whether or not to "full-field" and flat-out charge the battery, or just trickle charge it to keep it up. If it was not seated right, yea, that'll give you sporadic battery dash flashing goo.

 

As far as the clutch, I'm not too sure. do you have any leaks? i'm sure you have all the fluids? did you bleed the clutch after you changed the slave cylinder?

 

edit: if you really doubt if your battery is bad, have it fully tested. Or, just drive it around - It wouldnt be long before it would noticeable that your battery is low since it would be harder to start

 

 

-Justin

 

Awesome, thanks man. I actually haven't done the clutch repairs yet, probably next weekend. So I'm hoping the new hose and slave cylinder will fix the problem.

 

For the battery, I just got back from AAA and they tested the battery with the type they bring to the car. If it starts acting up, I'll pull it and have it tested.

 

The newest readings:

 

Battery Test-

Rated: 550 CCA

Measured: 723 CCA

Voltage: 12.77 V

 

"Good battery"

 

Cranking Test-

Voltage: 11.37 V

Amps: 80.9 A

Time: 687 mS

 

Charging System Test-

"No Problems"

No Load: 14.36 V

Loaded: 14.3 V

 

 

They basically told me the battery should be fine. So I guess I will take their word on this one.

 

Now you don't think the alternator could have been damaged at all, do you?

 

Thanks again.

[crazyman03]

Nope, not at all! Like I said it was probably just that green plug that was the culprit. The alternator didn't know to charge the battery so it didn't, mainly because it didn't know any better.

 

Since your newest results reflect the battery at 723 over the 401 you last had, that says a lot about your alternator... Its in good shape. Unless you charged your battery by some other means.

 

 

 

-Justin

[ibroad]

Nope, not at all! Like I said it was probably just that green plug that was the culprit. The alternator didn't know to charge the battery so it didn't, mainly because it didn't know any better.

 

Since your newest results reflect the battery at 723 over the 401 you last had, that says a lot about your alternator... Its in good shape. Unless you charged your battery by some other means.

 

 

 

-Justin

 

You the man! Thanks a lot. I didn't charge the battery at all, so it was all the alternator. I guess I'll stop stressing now, all is well. Now I just have to fix the clutch .....so I'll probably be back lol

[mdjdc]

The clutch is the slave cylinder so I would do what the others have told you before you get stuck. It will just go out one day and you will not be able to get her into gear. I've seen this happen several times and a side of the road swap is a pain in the ***. Change the slave cylinder and the hose now.

 

Cheers

[unibrook]

I echo the change of slave cylinder. It is easy to do in your driveway.

[987687]

The green connector supplies field current as well as the battery voltage to the alternator. With it disconnected, the alternator does no more than spin. It can only create voltage when it has a field current.

Now, if the battery sense wire were to come loose, but still have the field wire on the alt. Really bad things would happen. The regulator is stupid, it would assume it needed to go into full charge mode and kill the electrical system. Fortunately both of those wires are in the same connector, so no damage happened.

[ibroad]

The green connector supplies field current as well as the battery voltage to the alternator. With it disconnected, the alternator does no more than spin. It can only create voltage when it has a field current.

Now, if the battery sense wire were to come loose, but still have the field wire on the alt. Really bad things would happen. The regulator is stupid, it would assume it needed to go into full charge mode and kill the electrical system. Fortunately both of those wires are in the same connector, so no damage happened.

 

Thanks for explaining that!

[ibroad]

I echo the change of slave cylinder. It is easy to do in your driveway.

 

I'm ordering the parts as we speak.

 

Is http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/ a reputable website?

 

The slave cylinder is $63 on there, compared with an aftermarket from Advanced Auto for like $30. Is the genuine Subaru slave cylinder better?

[ibroad]

Would this slave cylinder work just as good as the genuine Subaru one?

 

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_TECHnovation-Clutch-Slave-Cylinder-Perfection-Clutch_19340178-P_236_R%7CGRP60006_____