mikaleda Posted February 14, 2013 Author Share Posted February 14, 2013 (edited) bump: also i am looking into a newer model alt. a cs130d. the cs130d has dual internal fans (no fan behind the pully) and is less problematic than the cs130. hoping to get this car going soon my legacy is going to have to sit around for a while mud season is stating early and with the tires that are on it even if i did fix it it wouldn't do me much good edit: :banana: :drool: :cool: lol just testing the emoticons seeing wich ones are back Edited February 14, 2013 by mikaleda 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted February 18, 2013 Author Share Posted February 18, 2013 Okay I got a new alternator in it is out of a 95 impreza 2.2 and it fits so nicely I'm so glad to have my car running again its good enough to get me where I need to go for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted February 20, 2013 Author Share Posted February 20, 2013 The new alt is working perfectly now I just need to get a fusible link box installed and put in a heavier fusible link for the alt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted February 23, 2013 Author Share Posted February 23, 2013 Well the p.o. Screwed me over yet again I can't get any parts from him at all :mad: this has made everything a whole lot harder now it is going to take quite a bit longer to get this car going now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted February 25, 2013 Author Share Posted February 25, 2013 Okay I ordered new rear wheel bearings for both sides $75 a peice plus $10 a peice for seals and I Called the closest stealership an they quoted me for $14 a peice for the cone washers that are bad up front and I still haven't found a steering rack yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted March 1, 2013 Author Share Posted March 1, 2013 Okay trying to order rear wheel bearings twice and neither time did I get the right part. And after getting three differant prices for the same part and the last one being $102 a peice not including seals l, I have decided to use rock auto. So it's going to be a while before I start tearing the rear end apart. On a side note I am now only going to use napa for electircal components and if it needs to be shipped i will have to double check thee order for the prices we pay for parts we shouldn't have to go through this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted March 3, 2013 Author Share Posted March 3, 2013 Okay I found out I can get new bearings and seals for both side la for $127 from rockauto and I am also going to get a new thermostat, PVC valve, and valve cover gaskets. I will do some more rewiring for the acc part of my fuse box and the alt at the same time as I do the fusible link box. I will post more pics and updates as I get things done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 Okay I ended up getting a good price at one of the local stores for $150 I got new moog seals, ntn bearings and a Stant thermostat. Now I just need to get them in, I am going to do the theostat today but I am going to wait a bit to put the bearings in since I found some major rust inside. I have been doing a little rust Provention but that is when I found the floor under the drivers seat is almost rusted through I will get some pics up latter today hopefully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted March 10, 2013 Author Share Posted March 10, 2013 Okay new thermostat in and now it's overheating no circulation both hoses are cold and no circulation I the rad. I did check the the thermostat before installed it. It opened fully at 200 degrees 195 T-stat so that is about right. The thermostat is a new Stant oe type and oe temp. I'm thinking the water pump is probably on the way out between that and the rust that I found in the cab (my drivers side seat fell through on one corner pics coming) I am begging to doubt this car is actually worth saving. By the time I have fixed the rust and wiring and all the other stuff I could practicly have built this car from the ground up. I am seriously thinking about getting another ea81 subaru that doesnt have ao much rust and putting my new parts on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted March 11, 2013 Author Share Posted March 11, 2013 Okay I got the interior pulled out and got the carpet pulled out and they were dripping wet. They were probably so wet because of the softball sized hole I found when I pulled the carpet out. I am going to talk to my metal worker neighbor and see if fixing the rust is going to be feasible. I think I am going to be using metal off of an old shower stal 1/16 inch thick and somewhat rustproof. We'll see what happens I am still working on pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted March 11, 2013 Author Share Posted March 11, 2013 Okay this is the end of this car. when I pulled the interior out I found out that one of the rust holes goes clean through the molded frame and the unibody is bent. I think that is why my passenger side tire sits like it does. I don't know what to do except look for another ea81 subie and put my new parts in it. Poor subie it only had 133,000 miles on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 sorry to hear that.. the low mileage ones are usually the rusty ones.. because they most likely sat for a while I hope you can find a replacement soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted March 12, 2013 Author Share Posted March 12, 2013 At least I know what to look for on my next one I just hope my next one will be blue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted March 12, 2013 Author Share Posted March 12, 2013 (edited) I was thinking about this car last night and I think I may be able to save it. First thing I need to do is straighten the unibody as best I can then have it welded up and reinforced. Next I would fix the rest of the rusted out floor panels and sand and paint the rust. Once that is done I know where I can get the suspension off of an impreza for cheap, so I am thinking five lug swap. At that point even of the frame is off a little I can adjust caster camber and make everything work. Later on I can get an ea81 and a dual range transmition and turn this into a mudder What do you guys think? Better than going to the wrecker I think. Edited March 12, 2013 by mikaleda Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Thats the way to think man, there are just too few of these cars left around to keep a disposable attitude towards them. Escpecially with all the time and work you've put into it already it would be sad to think that another salvagible classic went to its death. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted March 12, 2013 Author Share Posted March 12, 2013 Ya that is what I was thinking I just put to much work into this car to just let it go, Besides it matches my legacy nicely Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted March 12, 2013 Author Share Posted March 12, 2013 Okay I did some searching on the five lug swap and the same car I got the alternator out of (95 impreza 2 door sedan) should have the right front suspension parts. The tie rod ends I can get through rock auto but, the lower control arms might be a problem. I think I can use the original Lower controll arm if I have it machined to fit the ej ball joint. The back is going to be a little harder to find what I need, I haven't seen an xt6 around here in years. Since I am going to be working on the getting the body welded up first I have time to find those parts. I might end up getting them through rock auto depending on the cost . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted March 12, 2013 Author Share Posted March 12, 2013 Well rockauto doesn't have much of anything for the xt6. I'll have to try and find the parts another way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Might look into going with rear 4-lug disc parts, and either re-drill for 5-lug or do a 4 - 5 lug adapter. Just a thought there. For the rusted unibody area. I've opened the floor area over the section that was bad, and fit a length of tubing in to close the gap. Go longer than the rusted area, and plug weld it a few places along the sides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted March 13, 2013 Author Share Posted March 13, 2013 Might look into going with rear 4-lug disc parts, and either re-drill for 5-lug or do a 4 - 5 lug adapter. Just a thought there.Good idea that would Shure make that part easier. do you know if the rear discs off of an 87 Rx would work? For the rusted unibody area. I've opened the floor area over the section that was bad, and fit a length of tubing in to close the gap. Go longer than the rusted area, and plug weld it a few places along the sides.Nice I like that fix that is what I will do, that should get it fairly straight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted March 18, 2013 Author Share Posted March 18, 2013 Okay pics coming in a minute but, I have pulled everything but the dash out of the interior and have chipped out most of the tar and exposed the rust holes. Some of the rust holes were huge but for the most part it's mainly the floor boards. Here is the biggest hole Here is under the drivers seat Molded frame that's rusted through Dirt I got out of the rear quarter panel Yuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted March 18, 2013 Author Share Posted March 18, 2013 More pics, PS holes DS holes continued from first post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 Wow, lots of rust! Does Idaho use salt on their roads? I just traveled 93/95 from Courdelane to the border a few weeks ago. I'm thinking I should wash the undercarraige... now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted March 18, 2013 Author Share Posted March 18, 2013 (edited) Yes Idaho uses salt! Calcium chloride Deicer at least, bonner county does for sure I don't know about cda area but I would assume so. better safe than sorry. Edited March 18, 2013 by mikaleda Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 yes, salt is the devil. I'd rather just drive on spoob roads or stay home than have the kind of damage that the junk causes to our cars, you've got your work cut out for you. About time to invest in a welder, or beer for a welder friend lol. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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