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So the good news is I had towing


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Everything running fine going home from work today and the transmission goes out while driving down 26.

 

felt like a flat tire, pulling hard to the right, got much smoother once I pushed in the clutch, but still felt like a flat. got out, all the tires are good. I checked and it won't go forward or backward at all. clutch in or clutch out I can move through the gears and nothing. tried 4wd hi and same deal. tried 4 low and I can get it to move but I hear a grinding and it pulls hard to the right. i only went about 10 ft like that, then got it towed home. i could smell some clutch, though whether it was cause or effect I don't know.

 

Ive only had it a few weeks so I can't speak to the last time any clutch work or anything else was done. It had fluid in it when I checked a few days ago. I do know the left front CV was going out, Monday was the day to get that fixed.

 

so main question is what is a good way to test what the problem is? I still haven't done the basics and do a visual, check the fluid, etc since its dark. tomorrow or monday I will jack it up and see if things spin. Is this commonly associated with anything. Hopeing its just a clutch or axle or something.

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You may want to state the year and model of your car so people can help ya out not trying to be rude but it helps. Swaping the axles out are pretty easy specially if you buy the right punch to remove the roll pins. Theres a few post that state the tool part numbers in the "transmision" thread at the main page of this site if I remember right. I have personally only done ea81,ea82 and impeza ones though but still not bad to do. But as for the tranny issue I would start by checking all your linkages to be sure you didnt lose any bolts. I had my 80 lose a nut and my linkage losend up and got stuck in first but even then it made a gringing sound when I drove luckily for me I just tightend the bolt and was good to go. Does your clutch feel strange if you just depress it (not trying to drive) can you feel it releasing? Others on here know alot more than me so im sure you will get her figured out. Good luck :)

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its looking like something associated with the right side CV joint. the shaft itself looks like its sitting against the bottom of the cup instead of the middle. no news as to whats actually broken but ill pull it out tomorrow and check it.

 

with any luck it didnt mess up anything inside the transmission.

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looking at the EMPI axles on Rockauto in hopes that its just that simple.

 

The catalog only lists 2 EMPI axles, one set for a hatch, and one for wagon, coupe, FWD. No mention of 4wd.

 

the hatch would be the old ea81 style I beleive, but I dont know if theres a difference between the FWD and 4wd front CV's for my wagon. Mine is an 87 5spd dual range.

 

the description says its a 23 spline inner, 30 spline outer. anyone know what part number my axle is, or what spline count my trans is so I can make sure to get the right part?

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You would have a 23 spline inner joint. Outer spline count doesn't matter between EA82 cars. Turbo, 4EAT, or XT6 have the 25 spline stub shafts on the transmission. Non turbo, 3AT, or any other EA82s without any of the ones listed before, have 23 spline stub shafts. Obviously stuff can vary, especially when parts are interchanged.

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from what u said sounds like a ford ranger like my dad had where he blew the tranny on his way back home i know its not a subaru but the engine ran fine after ward just wouldn't move anywhere, also sounds like what happened to my 1985 subaru brat the tranny got blown by the previous owner in about the same way(also the previous owner blew the motor in the same week:banghead:before the trany but got imports from japan with 30-40 thousand with the car:headbang:)

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I'll throw my two cents in from experience with my bug i had something like that happen i sheared the gland nut that holds the flywheel to the crank the person i got it from over torqued the bolt on and me hoping on it sheared it. just my two cents

Edited by cpreset
found the right name
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I cant find the post i was looking at last night, but if I remember correctly someone was saying that unless you put it in low range the front diff is open. so if I pull the bad CV and run the car through the gears i should see the stub from the trans move (hopefully without grinding noises), and if I put it in low range (with the back tires off the ground of course) both fronts should spin.

 

is there any truth to this. I cant remember where how I found the post that broke it down like that.

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Front and rear Diffs are always open regardless of transfer case position. What changes between high and lo is the transfer gear, which is completely separate from the diffs. There were transmissions that had a center diff lock, but that doesn't affect front/rear diffs.

 

Since it moves in 4wd, that mostly rules out a transmission issue. It could still be a front differential problem, but it's most likely an axle.

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I started it up and noticed that the passenger cv was spinning, pulled the front hubcap and the axle nut and cone washer fell out. Thinking this is the major fault. Gonna give it a visual, see if anything is obviously stripped, then probably put it back on and see if it makes noise or anything

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ok, no problems with the trans. the castle nut and cone washer came off, allowing the axle to back out of the hub.

 

didn't seem to be much damage to the parts, the axle spindle had the front of the splines a little chewed up, but only about a mm deep or less. a small file fixed it easily. put it all back together and was able to drive it more or less as it was before the catastrophe.

 

couple things noticed along the way. the castle nut didn't have a pin holding it in, and it was actually too deep in the spindle for the pin to catch it anyway. seems like its going down too deep. also when i tried to torque it, it would simply bottom out before I could get 150 pds on it. the cone washer did have a ridge at the top of it, I'm thinking its just done and I need a new one.

 

it had a thunk when under power in first gear there for a bit. i had attributed it to the cv, and it still does it now, but the tone is different. its a deep thunk, and it goes off 3-4 times at a steady rhythm when turning or accelerating. unless something better presents itself, ill probably just replace the wheel bearing and cone washer and see if that does it.

 

Anythin else I should check?

 

edit - was just reading some other threads and I don't have the big flat washer (spring washer) that goes between the cone washer and the axle nut. Can someone just give me a quick rundown of the gear that goes from the wheel bearing out. just so I can acquire what is missing. from reading it looks like just he cone and spring washers and the nut.

Edited by djellum
noticed something else
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You need the cone washer then the flat washer then install the axle nut to 145ft lbs at least thats what my spec sheet says. And make sure you install a cotter pin. You should be able to look at the other side of your car to see how it should be. Maybe even just pull that side off so you can bring that flat washer to the hardware store if need be.

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Sounds like your cone washe got all chewed up when it got loose. Replace the cone washer and get the flat washer from a dealer or JY. The flat washer is not actually flat and it works like a lock washer. It actually has printed on it which side goes out and you can see that it had a taper to it. Onece you have those two you can put it all together and be on your way. Do it right the first time and you should be okay.

 

Also, look at the splines on the hub and make sure you have enough left to make that hub reliable. The shaft material is much harder than the hub and I have seen many of the hubs walloed out. If you only have a third or so of the splines left, you will wnat to replace the hub too. It is only going to fail and leave you stranded again.

 

Goof luck

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