Gosdawg Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 So, like the title said, I just purchased a red 1994 Subaru impreza L wagon... It's 2wd, had 141000 miles, the a/c doesn't work. The engine sounds fine, the transmission feels smooth (not as smooth as my last car, an 02 ford focus, but it's still not bad). The impreza starts right up... And the motors are going out on the power windows... There is no check engine light... But I was told by the previous owner (who claimed to own it since 95, but title says since 2002)... The timing belt has not been changed, he has claimed to change the oil regular... It was involved in a fender bender with a parked car, but no serious damage... The A/c apparently went through some catastrophic failure... He explained (he claimed he could barely remember) that some metal or something had gotten into the lines and ruined the WHOLE system... I was also told by a quote he had gotten a few years ago to replace and repair is 1000 dollars... When I turn on the a/c, I get a real bad smell, that smells kinda of like burning metal, but I don't get it with the vent or the heat... I paid 900 dollars for the car. I know I should get regular maintenance done (I.e: change oil, change timing belt, check brakes and replace, maybe replace the brake drums? Change plugs and wires, clean battery terminals) Is there anything else I should worry about, or made aware of? Is there any general mait. That I am missing from my list? Also, is it possible to replace the rear brake drums with rotors and pads, or is that not possible to make that change effectively? Oh, and I am sure this normal, but apparently the car will burn about a half a quart of oil over about two months, but the previous owner has reported no leaks of the sort... And the only leak he reported, was repaired, and not an oil leak at all. I appreciate any and all help/advice that I can get... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recian Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 (edited) If i recall 94 imprezas were EJ18 only so youve got the small engine. My recommendations is change the timing belt. If the coolant isnt pretty green change the water pump and thermostat with it. For the ac you can go to a junkyard and pull all the lines and parts cheap for the ac then replace whatever components werent working from the doner car. Power windows are 50/50 so youll find them in the junkyard also. Pull a few motors. Take a volt meter and check resistance across the motor b4 u pull it so you dont get a bad one. And the average car burns about 1qt oil between oil changes. Thats normal for any car. Double check the leaks tho. I know oil pans and oil separators use liquid gasket which turns to powder after almost 20 years. For the rear brakes the LX came with them so you can swap it. Ive been looking for a good doner at the junkyard for awhile to get the hubs and knuckles from. For you junkyards will be ur best friend. Subarus are like legos you can take parts from one and put them on the other. Alot of parts didnt change between yr and model so they transfer Edited June 29, 2012 by Recian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 (edited) Engine is non-interference so the worst that can happen if the belt breaks is the engine/car will just stop. If it happens in heavy traffic that can be a cause for concern, but the engine will not bend any valves in that case. What I'm saying is, don't lose any sleep over it, but change it when funds become available and before you plan on any long trips. A/C: you got the correct advice; get the parts off a junked Impreza. Find someone who has experience with cooling systems and get a quote. My suspicion is that the compressor is seized; I find it hard to believe that pieces of metal will migrate much further than the compressor itself. Rear disks can be interchanged with ones from a early 90's Legacy. Our '97 Impreza has the rear disks from a '93 Legacy wagon. Only issue is use the Legacy handbrake cable since the Impreza cable won't mate up with the Legacy rears. The Legacy cable is about a foot longer so you'll have to run it so it doesn't interfere with the drive train. Update on the rear brakes: In our case, both our Imp and the donor Legacy were AWD. Not sure if the rear disks from an AWD Legacy will transfer easily to your 2WD Imp. Edited June 29, 2012 by edrach Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gosdawg Posted June 29, 2012 Author Share Posted June 29, 2012 Hm, just the compressor seized huh? Okay, So I will have that checked out, and if it is just the compressor, I can just replace that I imagine... But I'll definitely look around the junk yards for some parts... Now you guys have said that the subarus are like Legos, and that parts from make and model differ very little if any? Can I get a mor specific year range and vehicle range? Anyway, thanks for the advice... And also, I imagine it's possible to turn the FWD into an AWD? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 the "metal bits in the a/c" talk is usually not reality...particularly on Subaru's...but not impossible. if you believe it - then change the compressor and the two hoses that connect to it...and if you find it all in a pull it yourself yard, heck replace everything easily accessible which is a lot of the A/C. often mechanics will just say that without a robust look at what's wrong...if that's the case then it may just need properly charged, a leak fixed, or the compressor replaced. good to get new orings in there anyway so might as well knock it all out at once and do as much as you easily can. Auto: change the trans fluid and front diff Manual: change the gear oil I'd want it reliable so personally i'd get an ebay timing belt kit with new timing belt, timing pulleys, and tensioner and replace all of that. easy job on those motors and the kits can be had for $100 or less for everything. if the timing belt is original not only is it over twice it's mileage it's 20 years old, not reliable enough for me. Make sure battery terminal connections are clean and tight to keep battery and alt happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gosdawg Posted June 29, 2012 Author Share Posted June 29, 2012 the "metal bits in the a/c" talk is usually not reality...particularly on Subaru's...but not impossible. if you believe it - then change the compressor and the two hoses that connect to it...and if you find it all in a pull it yourself yard, heck replace everything easily accessible which is a lot of the A/C. often mechanics will just say that without a robust look at what's wrong...if that's the case then it may just need properly charged, a leak fixed, or the compressor replaced. good to get new orings in there anyway so might as well knock it all out at once and do as much as you easily can. Auto: change the trans fluid and front diff Manual: change the gear oil I'd want it reliable so personally i'd get an ebay timing belt kit with new timing belt, timing pulleys, and tensioner and replace all of that. easy job on those motors and the kits can be had for $100 or less for everything. if the timing belt is original not only is it over twice it's mileage it's 20 years old, not reliable enough for me. Make sure battery terminal connections are clean and tight to keep battery and alt happy. Okay, we'll that's good to know, I'll definitely look into it more... Hopefully it is just the compressor and a matter of charging, but I should be sure first... Is there anyway I can check that my self, or I should I find a reliable mechanic to do this, or both? Also, the PO claimd to have changed the transmission fluid already because he accidentally drained the TF when changeling the oil once... So I think that's taken care of, it was within a few years... Also, this is newbish, how do I change the front diff, what is that? And I will definitely look into the timing belt kit... Is it pretty easy to change without raising the engine? Or should I take it to somebody and let them do the labor? I can be pretty good with a wrench, I am just asking if there are special tools I need to use (probably some I can rent from autozone or O'Reilly I bet)... Thanks for the continued advice everyone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 Is there anyway I can check that my self, mechanic will be an insane amount of money. personally i'd install a used compressor and charge it and see what happens. they're so cheap and easy it would be worth a shot. you could pull the a/c lines (very easy) and rinse them in some kind of solvent into a pan and see if particles come out. that would only take a few minutes the hose is held to the compressor with one bolt and the other end with one bolt. i'd do that then install a used compressor (if nothing weird comes out of the hoses) and charge it. and new orings at each fitting you disconnect. Also, the PO claimd to have changed the transmission fluid already because he accidentally drained the TF when changeling the oil once... So I think that's taken care of, it was within a few years... Also, this is newbish, how do I change the front diff, what is that? Also, the PO claimd to have changed the transmission fluid already because he accidentally drained the TF when changeling the oil once... if it's an automatic you should still change it. one drain and refill only gets a small percentage of the fluid out due to fluid sitting in the torque converter and valve bodies, it's not like engine oil. most of us change it about 3 times in short succession or you can have a professional due it. at 20+ years old and that many miles it needs the old fluid out given you just bought this thing and would like to avoid an expensive transmission repair. if it's a manual then you're fine, all the oil drains out of those. Also, this is newbish, how do I change the front diff, what is that?well you still haven't told us if it's an auto or manual. if it's a manual then the front diff shares the trans fluid, it's one and the same you only change the trans fluid. if it's an automatic it has a dedicated front diff with it's own gear oil. you change it like engine oil - drain and refill with gear oil. And I will definitely look into the timing belt kit... Is it pretty easy to change without raising the engine? Or should I take it to somebody and let them do the labor? I can be pretty good with a wrench, I am just asking if there are special tools I need to use (probably some I can rent from autozone or O'Reilly I bet)...in my opinion subaru timing belts are super easy...but i don't know you or your skill set. definitely no need to lift engine or special tools. remove drive belts, 22mm bolt on crank pulley, crank pulley, timing covers, then timing belt. lots of information on here on how to do it. get a factory service manual. EJ18's are awesome - keep them from running out of oil and overheating and they easily make 200,000 miles without blinking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gosdawg Posted June 29, 2012 Author Share Posted June 29, 2012 Sorry about that, I thought I mentioned that the car is an automatic transmission. So yea, it is an automatic transmission... I will go ahead and change the transmission oil a couple more times, and change the gear oil as well... And I will go ahead and start looking for a used compressor, and in the mean time I will go ahead and clean the lines out and see if anything comes out with it... Do you have any idea why I got the bad smell with the A/c on, but isn't there when the vent and heat is on? But say weird things do come out of the a/c lines, am I just replacing those lines, or am I replacing everything... And am I worried about the condenser being damaged? And as far as changing the timing belt, I think I could go ahead and do that myself... If its not too hard I won't even bother paying for the labor. Thank you again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 after 20 years who knows, smell could just be smell in the vents or something from not being used...i don't know. A/C is a closed system so *it* shouldn't make the cabin air smell at all, that would be very odd. wash the hoses out in a container FIRST and then make a decision. if i comes out clean, just a compressor and orings. if it comes out dirty or with metal/particles in it - then post here and we'll start there. no point in writing books about contingencies, start by cleaning the hose out and let us know what you find. http://www.car-parts.com for used compressors. find the cheapest and have it shipped to you. almost all of them ship. if you find particles i would be replacing everything you can that is easily accessible, basically everything under the hood...just not the heater core stuff/evaporator. condensor is easy, it's held in by like two bolts and the hoses for most Subaru's - so yes it would be almost silly not to replace it as long as you can get a good deal on one. they're essentially worthless since Subaru A/C parts don't have many issues so they're no demand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gosdawg Posted June 29, 2012 Author Share Posted June 29, 2012 Okay, I will do that within the next day or two, and then I will post my results... I kind of hope there are no metal flakes in the lines, as I am kind of pressed time and money wise to replace nearly everything under the hood (unless you mean the just a/c system) But either way... Thanks for the advice, and I'll try to come back ASAP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gosdawg Posted June 30, 2012 Author Share Posted June 30, 2012 Is the compressor right there next to the alternator? Also, what is that thing, front left of the engine bay, just behind the passenger headlight? I can't tell... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 Burning metal? Could be burning clutch on the compressor when it's engaged. Large cylinder to the drivers side of the alternator is the AC compressor. Has to big aluminum lines bolted to the top. The pulley is composed of an idler (the belt rides on this) and a hub and clutch assembly that turns the compressor shaft. The outer section of the hub (the clutch) is pulled against the idler when a magnetic coil is energized. If the compressor is seized you will not be able to turn the inner hub of the pulley by hand, or it may feel notchy. Be sure the engine is off when you try this. The hub is the section on the front with the triangle. Put your hand on it and try to turn it. Should be easy, with an even feel of drag the whole way around. If it's very hard to turn, or doesn't turn at all it's likely the compressor is damaged internally. The smell could also be something strange in the heater core, or the blower motor is burning out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 Is the compressor right there next to the alternator? Also, what is that thing, front left of the engine bay, just behind the passenger headlight? I can't tell... The air filter? :-p If you're (un)lucky you have ABS and that's the ABS pump module. There could also be a charcoal canister for the evap emissions system there. And the horn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gosdawg Posted July 1, 2012 Author Share Posted July 1, 2012 Burning metal? Could be burning clutch on the compressor when it's engaged. Large cylinder to the drivers side of the alternator is the AC compressor. Has to big aluminum lines bolted to the top. The pulley is composed of an idler (the belt rides on this) and a hub and clutch assembly that turns the compressor shaft. The outer section of the hub (the clutch) is pulled against the idler when a magnetic coil is energized. If the compressor is seized you will not be able to turn the inner hub of the pulley by hand, or it may feel notchy. Be sure the engine is off when you try this. The hub is the section on the front with the triangle. Put your hand on it and try to turn it. Should be easy, with an even feel of drag the whole way around. If it's very hard to turn, or doesn't turn at all it's likely the compressor is damaged internally. The smell could also be something strange in the heater core, or the blower motor is burning out. Hm, but I only smell that smell when the a/c switch is on, otherwise (on vent, bilevel and heat) there is no smell... But I'm definitely going to check the lines and the compressor today or tomorrow at some point (I know I said that already, but it's been a busy weekend) And to the second post, no, not the air filter... It's between that and the headlight... It's to like, a medium sized rubber hose and small on that hooks into it... I don't think the car has ABS... Thanks everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gosdawg Posted July 15, 2012 Author Share Posted July 15, 2012 So, I was taking off the a/c lines, when, low and behold... There is still freon in there... I guess I should have guessed, (hopefully freon is not corrosive, if it is, hopefully someone will let me know) So a couple of questions... How do I safely and cleanly, drain the freon out, so I can check the lines for metal shavings (or anything else weird)? Also, I tried to turn the hub on the front of the compressor by hand, it does NOT move... But I see where there is an Alan wrench screw, am I supposed to turn with the Alan wrench, or by hand, because by hand, it does not budge... But of course, I know little about subarus because I came from a ford focus before this car (big difference so far, not a bad difference, just unfamiliar) Also, if I take the a/c lines off, can I leave them off and be fine, should I cover the holes that they attached to, or should I reconnect them to be safe? Thanks for all the advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 Okay, I will do that within the next day or two, and then I will post my results... I kind of hope there are no metal flakes in the lines, as I am kind of pressed time and money wise to replace nearly everything under the hood (unless you mean the just a/c system) But either way... Thanks for the advice, and I'll try to come back ASAP Like others may have said, I wouldn't worry about metal flakes in the A/C system. I don't think that is ever a big concern. I guess you could replace the dryer, but I doubt there would be much metal accumulated there, and not anywhere else. Subaru compressors sit high and up front on the motor, so they are easy to remover and replace with no special tools. Put a used compressor on with new O rings, evacuate the system to rid moisture and atmospheric air, check for leaks, then charge with 134A refrigerant. I am thinking if you replaced the compressor yourself, total replacement cost would be less than $200. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gosdawg Posted July 16, 2012 Author Share Posted July 16, 2012 Okay, that is helpful information, and helps me think the I won't have much problem... It makes me wonder why the old owners mechanic would say there is... But either way, I think I'm going to check the lines like some have said, and so, I need a couple of answers based on the questions from my last post. Again, thanks everyone for all the advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 The hub on the compressor should be easy to spin by hand. If it doesn't move at all the compressor is damaged internally and should be replaced. There are a few ways to evacuate the AC system, one is to take it to a shop, two is to crack the line open slightly then run away for an hour, three is to buy some fitting adapters and hoses and a vacuum pump and refrigerant storage tank and capture the charge yourself. More than likely, if you take the car to an AC shop and say I need this system emptied the proper way, and i'll bring it back to have it re-charged after I fix the compressor, they'll be nice and empty it for very cheap or even free. (it only takes 2 minutes for the service machine to empty the system) The black plastic can with the two vacuum lines is the charcoal canister for the evap system. Make sure those vacuum lines aren't dried out and split to avoid vacuum leaks there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 (edited) The hub on the compressor should be easy to spin by hand. If it doesn't move at all the compressor is damaged internally and should be replaced. There are a few ways to evacuate the AC system, one is to take it to a shop, two is to crack the line open slightly then run away for an hour, three is to buy some fitting adapters and hoses and a vacuum pump and refrigerant storage tank and capture the charge yourself. More than likely, if you take the car to an AC shop and say I need this system emptied the proper way, and i'll bring it back to have it re-charged after I fix the compressor, they'll be nice and empty it for very cheap or even free. (it only takes 2 minutes for the service machine to empty the system) I did not read this thread thoroughly......is it possible that there is no refrigerant left in the system. It could have all leaked out. To check if there is refrigerant left in the system. Unscrew the low side port by removing the plastic cap that has an "L" (for low) embossed on the cap. Depress the schrader valve for a split second, and listen for the hiss of the refrigerant escaping from the system. This will tell you if you have refrigerant in the system. Edited July 16, 2012 by Rooster2 added more info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gosdawg Posted July 16, 2012 Author Share Posted July 16, 2012 Yeah, there is refrigerant left in the system, I was unbolting one of the a/c lines when I started to hear it hiss, then, all of a sudden, this like, super radioactive green color liquid squirted out, so I tightened it (I'm assuming that is the freon)... I would have ran away for about an hour, but I'm worried about the green liquid stuff being corrosive or damaging in some way to the other engine components... Other wise, I would have a bright neon green engine right now :-p So what should I do with the green liquid should I run away for an hour? Anyway, I understand that my question are newbish... I appreciate the advice. Thank you. Further advice is also appreciated... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Yeah, there is refrigerant left in the system, I was unbolting one of the a/c lines when I started to hear it hiss, then, all of a sudden, this like, super radioactive green color liquid squirted out, so I tightened it (I'm assuming that is the freon)...I would have ran away for about an hour, but I'm worried about the green liquid stuff being corrosive or damaging in some way to the other engine components... Other wise, I would have a bright neon green engine right now :-p So what should I do with the green liquid should I run away for an hour? Anyway, I understand that my question are newbish... I appreciate the advice. Thank you. Further advice is also appreciated... The green color liquid, is prolly bright neon color. That is a dye that has been added to the system with the refrigerant to find leaks. It is designed so that when a special light is shone around the A/C plumbing works, the dye glows to show where there is a leak. Special glasses are worn to make the dye easier to see at the leakage site. So, someone has worked on the system in the past to find leaks. The leak was prolly fixed since you still have plenty of gas pressure in the system. You can only hope that previous owner did not fill up the system with a lot of "stop leak" product, instead of fixing the leak properly with new O rings. If so, the system can be badly clogged with sealant. It is possible that previous owner tried playing mechanic and has added too much 134A refrigerant to the system, so the sensor prevents the compressor from turning on, because the pressure is too high. It would be wise to have a shop check the refrigerant pressure in the system with A/C gauges to find out what your pressure readings are, and get advise from them as to their findings, and how to proceed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 The green liquid is oil with UV dye added. The refrigerant is a gas and has no color/visible appearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gosdawg Posted July 16, 2012 Author Share Posted July 16, 2012 Oh, that's the dye? Yeah, I can see that now... It's really visible... That's really good to know! Who knows if it was too full, I just know that the hub on the compressor one of you is telling me about will not turn by hand... It nudged a millimeter to the left or right, but other than that, it's pretty rigid... So according to you guys, I should evacuate the system, check the lines, replace the compressor, charge, and see what happens... I can find compressors at the local pick in pull for about 30 bucks. Do you guys think I should go ahead and change the lines, regardless of the condition I find them in? Also, is there anything else I should be looking for? Or checking for? Any procedure I should make sure that I do? (procedure explained in some detail if possible) I'm starting to think that this IS a compressor issue, and the old owners mechanic (as someone mentioned) was lazy and/or dishonest and saw the ability to mAke a quick 1000 (quoted price to fix the supposed metal shaving issue) However, I am still going to check the lines for these metal shavings to be sure... Again, thanks for all advice and future advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 When you have a compressor that's locked because of internal damage it's smart to check the lines for pieces of metal from the compressor. There are several different ways these can fail, and the location of the failure (and design of the compressor) will determine if any particles are pushed out of the compressor into the lines. Probably not, but it's easy to check. Disconnect the high pressure line at each end and remove it, put one end into a cup and spray brake cleaner through it to wash it out. IF any chunks or glitter come out then you'll have to replace some other parts while you're at it, but all of this stuff is cheap at the junkyard. Junkyard compressor is the way to go. These don't fail very often. Just make sure the junkyard compressor will turn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoupedUpSubie Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 I know your fumbling around with your AC right now but I can give you a parts list for the drum to disc conversion for a FWD car. These parts can be from an AWD(preferably a mid to late 90s impreza/legacy or forester) Disc backing plates parking brake cable from disc equipped car parking brake components rotors and pads calipers and bracket All it takes is removing all the old components and putting the new ones back on. The hub is the same for both disc and drum brakes on a FWD. Your rear brakes wont get all the power they normally would if originally equipped with discs. In order to get this you need to change the master cylinder to an SVX(don't quote me on that part). It could easily be done in a day. I do not recommend going to AWD with the 1.8 liter. They are under powered especially with AWD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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