xbeerd Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 what does a pick n pull 'store' charge for the rear suspension tube? i couldnt find anything like it on their price list and they are closed. wondering if its worth grabbing the whole thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 ... the rear suspension tube? ... Could I Ask if you Meant the "U" Joint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted June 30, 2012 Author Share Posted June 30, 2012 Could I Ask if you Meant the "U" Joint? No. The big rump roast tube in the back that the control arms, trailing arms and dif attach to. I really don't know what its called?! Rear crossmember maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 No. The big rump roast tube in the back that the control arms, trailing arms and dif attach to. I really don't know what its called?! Rear crossmember maybe? Without knowing what kind of car you are talking about, it sounds like you are describing a torsion bar. Our picknpulls charge $19 for one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted June 30, 2012 Author Share Posted June 30, 2012 oh you guys and your details.:-p Its for an ea82/loyale. Tube bolts to body. Then control arms and dif bolt to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 This, He is talking about the whole flocking suspension tube assy. Good luck carring it out of the yard you self, the EA81 tube was a b*tch to put back up, even with 2 people and jacks lol.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 You are looking at about $55 w/o brakes. $70+ with brakes. Just tell them it is a rear dead axle (Which it is, since that '93 Loyale there is a 2WD) http://www.picknpull.com/part_pricing.aspx?LocationID=65&Language=English&NavItem=10&SearchCriteria=partpricing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted July 1, 2012 Author Share Posted July 1, 2012 Thanks Tom. Not lokin for the WHOLE thing. Just the tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 The ea82 one is quite a bit lighter. Unlike the ea81, it doesn't have torsion bars inside. It probably weighs 30lbs. I don't remember it being heavy enough to piss me off. But yes, when you have the trailing arms, brakes, etc all attached to it. It's a heavy little sob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Lol indeed. I didn't think about the added torsion bs. Scott, after I took down and cleaned up my EA81 tube assy. I was thinking, "How the f******* did Scott do this him self on the Loyale!?" Haha. Pretty bad when the EA81 tube is laying on your head, and you can't move it. Then you start laughing, and ur Mom has to come pull it off you. I felt like a sissy man :-p Scott, I went to the JY today as you know. I would see about getting that tube pretty soon. They are starting to clear out sections of cars. Pretty soon that '83 Hatch will be gone. Boo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted July 2, 2012 Author Share Posted July 2, 2012 (edited) yeah, i wanna go out there this week, thursday or friday probably. unless i can get out tuesday afternoon maybe we can go out there and convince them just to flip the ************er over on its top if they are gonna crush it that'd make it easier haha. yeah, the ea82 wasnt as bad as its hollow. although, the floor jack works well for holding the rear dif up untill you get it all disconnected, then lower it down and drag it out. if i recall thats how i did it. maybe i can score some 92 accord rear calipers per jeszeks swap.. have front and rear ebrake! Edited July 2, 2012 by xbeerd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 yeah, i wanna go out there this week, thursday or friday probably. unless i can get out tuesday afternoon. yeah, the ea82 wasnt as bad as its hollow. although, the floor jack works well for holding the rear dif up untill you get it all disconnected, then lower it down and drag it out. if i recall thats how i did it. maybe i can score some 92 accord rear calipers per jeszeks swap.. have front and rear ebrake! If you're lucky your axles aren't stuck on all ends. If your car is like mine, the axles are rusted stuck to all splines. You have to drop the tube, diff, axles, brakes, and trailing arms as one piece. It's HEAVY doing that. And I only had a scissor jack at the time. It sucks a lot, but it's possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Huh, you can used Accord rear calipers too eh. Tricky part is finding on of those early 90s Accords with rear disc, most I've seen are drumb (Dumb) btw, there are a ************ ton of double edge razer blades under the rear seat if you need one. I used one today LMAO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted July 2, 2012 Author Share Posted July 2, 2012 oh yeah, my axles were stuck, i popped the thing thru the rear drums for removal. puttin back in was a ***************, come to think of it, gettin out was too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 If you're lucky your axles aren't stuck on all ends. If your car is like mine, the axles are rusted stuck to all splines. You have to drop the tube, diff, axles, brakes, and trailing arms as one piece. It's HEAVY doing that. And I only had a scissor jack at the time. It sucks a lot, but it's possible. Mine are like that on both the Loyale and GL. I just took apart the DOJs to get the diff out, then I dropped the tube assembly (brakes and all) You can also undo both Castle nuts, and pitch the diff side to side (Once unbolted and lowered) to slide the CVJs out of the bearings/trailing arms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted July 2, 2012 Author Share Posted July 2, 2012 btw, there are a ************ ton of double edge razer blades under the rear seat if you need one. I used one today LMAO. LOL. good to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Getting the diff in and out is pretty easy if you have patients. The Tube was the hardest on the GL because of the shear weight of it. Like trying to move a flipping engine around LOL! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 ...maybe i can score some 92 accord rear calipers per jeszeks swap.. have front and rear ebrake! Here is my Writeup about that: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=134321 Cool Idea, but you must Keep the Subaru Lever for the Front Brakes and install Next to it, the Honda Lever for the Rear Brakes... and No Center Console. Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Perhaps it is said in the write-up, but could you make the Accord rear ebrakes work with the original Subaru lever? Would be kinda cool to have hand brakes on the front and rear though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyfun Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 what does a pick n pull 'store' charge for the rear suspension tube? i couldnt find anything like it on their price list and they are closed. wondering if its worth grabbing the whole thing. Just curious, why do you want the whole thing? Did you high-center and smash it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Rust. This is the Midwest boy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Just curious, why do you want the whole thing? Did you high-center and smash it? There's a concept you don't fully understand.... hahaha It's evil rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyfun Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Ah gotcha. Grew up on the coast in California, so I know how it goes. But ever since I moved back to Montana, it's nearly a forgotten memory. Thankfully, they don't salt the roads here, so my only rust is the cancer in my fenders, nothing important. So you're assuming that the part at the junkyard is less rusted out than yours. Is your so far gone that you can't just have the bad parts cleaned and welded over? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 The '93 Loyale in the yard is a Calif model. There is Zero rust on it anywhere. The one on Scott's car isn't all that bad as it was swapped from a less rusty car. I am guessing this would be to have a solid clean spare on hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 If his is anything like mine was when it rusted through and broke in half, no way is it possible to fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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