Tosh Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 So today I had possibly one of the worst days in my wrenching history. Long story short, My subaru axel pin removal tool got stuck. In the process of he-manning that out it broke off. I tried to punch it out with a 3/16" punch that got stuck, managed to barley get that out. Attempted to drill it out with a Ti bit and that broke off. So now one side of my axle has a bit of drill bit sticking out and the other has a punch. Needless to say they are both stuck good. How hard is it/is it possible to remove the stub axel from the transmission with an axel still on? or should I just be looking for a new DR transmission? and yes I know drilling it out was the 'wrong' decision, it was a lapse in judgement on my part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 from a day or 2 ago http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=134221 long story short was weld a slide hammer to whatever you have stuck in there. doesnt have to be a slide hammer and idk if you have enough material to weld to, but its an option. do you need to save the axle or is it toast? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted July 2, 2012 Author Share Posted July 2, 2012 I don't have enough to weld to on either side. The axel is toast both inner and outer boots are ripped I have a replacement axel ready to go in. I think pulling the stub axel is really my only option at this point. I've been trying to find a guide/fsm pages on "how to" but no luck yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted July 2, 2012 Author Share Posted July 2, 2012 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 I've had this with a transmission that I bought. It was a mess. What I ended up doing was using an angle grinder and cut the axle away where the punch was stuck. When I got down to the spline on both sides of the axle, the punch, pin, and whatever else was stuck were only going through the spline. At this point, all the tension sticking them in there was gone, and I just punched the stuck bits out, and the ground up axle came free. It's gonna suck to do in car, but you should have enough access from the bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted July 2, 2012 Author Share Posted July 2, 2012 I've had this with a transmission that I bought. It was a mess. What I ended up doing was using an angle grinder and cut the axle away where the punch was stuck. When I got down to the spline on both sides of the axle, the punch, pin, and whatever else was stuck were only going through the spline.At this point, all the tension sticking them in there was gone, and I just punched the stuck bits out, and the ground up axle came free. It's gonna suck to do in car, but you should have enough access from the bottom. Ugh, I was really hoping I wouldn't have to do this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Ugh, I was really hoping I wouldn't have to do this Maybe somebody will have a better idea... But, I ran through them all. And ended up just grinding everything. Just try not to bugger up the splines on the tranny too much, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted July 2, 2012 Author Share Posted July 2, 2012 Maybe somebody will have a better idea... But, I ran through them all. And ended up just grinding everything. Just try not to bugger up the splines on the tranny too much, though. so its NOT possible to remove the stub without cracking the transmission open? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 cold chisel/grinder/dremel to make the axle pin hole into a U instead of an O? if you can remove the material on the transmission side of the axle you should be able to slide off the axle and leave the pins correct. with the axle gone it would give you an extra amount of material to grab. if its soft enough I would try the chisel and hammer to just remove a tab of metal off the back of the axle. probably all case hardened, but might be worth the cost of the chisel if it gets it done before it wears out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 You could try that... It's gonna be wicked tight working in there, though. The other thing is, diff bearing don't like a lot of love in the form of being hammered on. so its NOT possible to remove the stub without cracking the transmission open? Correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Yea, 5MT stubs are held in with a snapring on the inside. Don't think there's any way to get to them without opening up the transmission, which will be very hard with an axle cup stuck on the driver's side... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted July 3, 2012 Author Share Posted July 3, 2012 Yea, 5MT stubs are held in with a snapring on the inside. Don't think there's any way to get to them without opening up the transmission, which will be very hard with an axle cup stuck on the driver's side... Looks like its new transmission time Anyone got a DR awd box? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 Looks like its new transmission time Anyone got a DR awd box? Just take an hour and fix it. It's gonna be easier to fix that messup than it will be to swap transmissions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 (edited) +1 Just get your hands on some type of small circular saw/angle grinder and start cutting away. It's fun. You'll like it. =P If you don't have one, use the money you'd put towards a new tranny zzz Edited July 3, 2012 by l75eya Added a little face with a big saw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortysayhi Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 This doesn't help with your current situation per say, but a Allen wrench works as a axle stub remover. And they are super strong. (it's what I use) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted July 3, 2012 Author Share Posted July 3, 2012 Just take an hour and fix it. It's gonna be easier to fix that messup than it will be to swap transmissions. well my big fear is that I'm gonna cut off the old axel and still not be able to get the stuff out. At which point I'm stuck having to drive my subie to work for a week in RWD while I get my hands on a transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 well my big fear is that I'm gonna cut off the old axel and still not be able to get the stuff out. At which point I'm stuck having to drive my subie to work for a week in RWD while I get my hands on a transmission. Well if you grind it down to the stub, there will be no more pin holding the axle on. The only thing stopping you at that point is if the splines are rusted stuck together. If you're gonna swap transmissions, why not try first before giving up. If you're set on swapping, at least mess it up beyond hope before giving up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyfun Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 Why can't you just drill it out with another bit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted July 4, 2012 Author Share Posted July 4, 2012 Well if you grind it down to the stub, there will be no more pin holding the axle on.The only thing stopping you at that point is if the splines are rusted stuck together. If you're gonna swap transmissions, why not try first before giving up. If you're set on swapping, at least mess it up beyond hope before giving up. I've got no doubt I can get the old axel off like this. My concern is being able to reinstall the new axel after. I'm all game for trying this I'd just like to have a trans in the garage just incase I'm not able to get the new axel in. Rebuilding or at least resealing a transmission is on my list of things to try my hand at so "having a spare" transmission would just give me something to work on this summer. Why can't you just drill it out with another bit? The bit thats stuck in there is a Titanium nitride coated, I think it would be easier to do the trans swap then drill that out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 The bit thats stuck in there is a Titanium nitride coated, I think it would be easier to do the trans swap then drill that out. Yea, a bit to drill that out would likely cost more than a new transmission.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted July 13, 2012 Author Share Posted July 13, 2012 :banghead: spent all afternoon with the angle grinder trying to cut this axel out. No luck apparently a 4.5 inch wheel isn't big enough, gonna get the sawzall out and give that a try. :drunk:zzz:drunk: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 SUCCESS!:headbang: 2 grinder disks and a sawzall blade later and 'plink' the drill bit just falls right out. Now there is just the punch. I fashion me a good wacking system and get to pounding. Had to go and pick up a bigger hammer. VICTORY!:headbang: the damn axel just came apart when i went to pull it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyfun Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 Congrats on not having to crack the transmission. And it sounds like that axle needed replacing anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 i use a cobalt cement bit for drilling cement took a few to get through the last one drill from one side than the other till you hit the center shaft then stop then it should slide off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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