raymond338 Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Okay, I have saved another subaru from the crushing machine. At least, so far. It is a 1988 DL with an EA82 1800 and front wheel drive automatic transmission. The 'For Sale' advertisement said it would not go into reverse or third gear. I went and looked at it. The car is in amazing shape with only 85,000 original miles. Second owner didn't know too much about cars: the transmission dipstick didn't have a drop of fluid on it. He didn't want to come off the price any (and despite wanting to save the car, I have my financial limits). I suggested that he try putting some fluid in and see what happens. He did so, but to no avail, as he informed me two weeks later when I called him again (saw the advertisement reposted). I went and test drove it. It did go into 3rd gear for a little piece (1/2 mile) and it pulled well, but it seems to be slipping. The engine will rev and the car will no longer accelerate. Especially after it is wamr. If I drop it from 'D' to '2' the car downshifts (but it doesn't pull in 3rd, leastways not much). Reverse works slightly when I first crank it and its cold. It will drive backward, but any attempt to accelerate seriously results in the engine revving with no additional movement. After that I can 'rock' it in third by revving the motor up and down, but it won't actually GO in reverse. I drained the fluid out he put in, black as hell and thin. I refilled it. No real difference and the fluid is still dark brown. I thought maybe flushing it out might save it. I am willing to try again a couple of times. But I thought I would seek someone who might have more knowledge about this car or automatic transmissions in general. I thought maybe these signals would mean something to someone with more experience. I bought the car without expecting the transmission to be any good, so there will be no great disappointment if it needs rebuilt or replaced, but obviously I would prefer any attempt to repair it without all of that expense and effort. I hate for the car to end up as 'parts', but better that then its only other destination: the smelter! Unfortunately the only parts that will interchange with my 1980 DL is probably the tires. Any info is appreciated, including anyone that knows if I can switch out the tranny for a manual. I have access to a 1991 Loyale with an 1800 and a 5spd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Swap in the 5-speed. The 3AT is crap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor pole Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 do the five speed swap, everything bolts up. If you have access to a parts car that is complete that is a definite plus. I swapped my 91 to a 5sp and I love it. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raymond338 Posted July 11, 2012 Author Share Posted July 11, 2012 well there is a 91 loyale at our local pull your own part. i will have to check and see if it is 2wd or 4wd. i was there last week and the car was complete. not a lot of subaru's on the road around here. i will need the MT, flywheel and clutch assembly, clutch pedal and cable, shifter and linkage. do i need the cv axles off of the MT car? that is, are they a different length? anything else i need to get? (computer for instance?) just want to get everything while the car is there, cause when its gone its gone... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 You need the pedal box with attached pedals and clutch cable, the transmission, the shifter assembly and shift boot, and the transmission crossmember. Grab all the bolts too. Axles are the same as long as you're putting in a non-turbo manual trans. If it had the 4eat auto trans, it would be worth fixing, the 3at sucks to drive so a 5spd manual is a huge improvement. Oh, a 4x4 trans will work too, just cap off the rear output. I've used a spray paint cap with rtv before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dj7291993 Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 Grab whatever it uses as a return spring, too. Usually, it's the hill holder. You don;t need the hill holder system, but you'll need the part with the spring (or rig a spring in yourself). I just cut the lines going to it, and zip tied it into an open space. There's better ways, but since I was pulling the junkyard trans in Feb, the ground was covered in snow, mud, and ice, and I just wanted it out. Also, a tip on the pedals, the studs the mount to, are from the brake booster. Once you get the nuts off, pry that back, it'll make getting it out easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor pole Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 Make sure and grab the speedometer cable too. MT cable is longer than 3at Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raymond338 Posted July 22, 2012 Author Share Posted July 22, 2012 Got all the pieces mentioned above. thanks. Got the automatic out this weekend, will start mounting the MT this week. Will there be a neutral switch I need to bypass or hook up somehow to the MT? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor pole Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 Got all the pieces mentioned above. thanks. Got the automatic out this weekend, will start mounting the MT this week. Will there be a neutral switch I need to bypass or hook up somehow to the MT? you will need to bypass the inhibitor switch in the automatic shifter. If I remember right it is the two black/yellow wires need to be connected. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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