babyfacefitz Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 Just got my first forester after year of OBW's. When trying to get my state inspection done the local "friendly" shop said my OBD would read ($89 charge to connect a different way) and rear cylinder were leaking. There for I needed all new parts in back, springs drums, etc. I asked if both were leaking, yes of course. ($350 on the brake). Getting home, my OBD reader worked just fine, no codes. The rear cylinders look good, the only fluid I can find is on the wheel studs. Questions? Are there kits out there? What years can the other cars work? 99-02 forester?, any legacy parts work? Do you find these can go out, or did these guys fib? thanks, Love USF! Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 your post is hard to read so i'm not sure what you're asking. i think you need to verify what is wrong first. any OBD scanner should work fine. many auto parts stores do it for free as well. clarify what is wrong with the brakes..."brake cylinder"...what do they mean by that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babyfacefitz Posted July 19, 2012 Author Share Posted July 19, 2012 Thanks for the question Gary. I guess I don't have much questions now. I was feeling like ranting since I thought the shop was fibbing. I now found out some prices and methods. The shop inspected and said my rear brake cylinders were leaking. The inside of the drum/springs all look dry. Only the wheels studs had clear brake fluid on them. I think they needed more work and put the fluid on the studs. The hub had a little fluid on the outside ring from centrifugal force. No fluid on anywhere else. The driver side ball joint did have some play but the passenger is solid. I plan to replace the ball joint. I saw some direction on here and plan to let rust eater work for a couple of days. I guess I can take back the car and say the brakes aren't leaking and leave it at that. My mechanic friend that works a suby dealer wondered if I will still have to replace the brake cylinder if they say so. I update when I get back to the shop soon. Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 If the wheel cylinder itself and everything behind the drum is dry, I would suspect you do not need cylinders. That said, the car being a 2002 a brake fluid flushing would be in order. replace the hardware? if the shoes are wearing evenly i only would if the kit was on sale. Replace ball joints in pairs, as if one is bad the other will not be too far behind. Are you doing this work yourself or is a shop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babyfacefitz Posted July 21, 2012 Author Share Posted July 21, 2012 Nipper, thanks for the advice on the ball joints. I have a friend that might do it or I will tackle the ball joints. Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoupedUpSubie Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 I have dealt with drum brakes and bad wheel cylinders(what they are calling brake cylinder) a lot. In order to check the wheel cylinders they need to pull the drums which seems like more then what a normal inspection would entail. My advice is fix the ball joint and if your brake pedal feels fine and isn't mushy clean things up on the outside and go to a different place for the inspection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 Couped not necassarily. With front discs and rear drums there are a few shops that will pull the rear drums (one) for inspection. not defending this shop just throwing it out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babyfacefitz Posted August 3, 2012 Author Share Posted August 3, 2012 Update My friendly Firestone wanted $400 to put in the ball joints I got my replaced but it took heat, pb blaster and more heat. Took major heat and some impact/attitude to get out my first pinch bolt. I put in small hole on the back of the bolt and that might have helped too. I got excited and hit the next one with two much attitude and the head twisted off. Drilling it out enough for a good extractor worked...only with major heat again. eventually the top unthreaded part broke. I then work on the back and got it to thread out with the extractor backwards. Taking the linkage for the anti sway off the control arm helped removal and installation of the new ball joint. Now lets see if I get my inspection with new ball joints and the rear cylinders that didnt leak now or before. Thanks USMB. Now we'll Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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