Control arm bushing questions

[1 Lucky Texan]

for an 03 H6 Outback, wondering about some options for replacing the bushing/mount and bushing located at the rear, of the front, lower arm.

 

Supposedly the stock unit is liquid filled, well, if so, that explains the drips i had for a while in my garage that just healed itself.

 

I have a few questions - and of course, wonder what others have done or would do.

 

first, is there an STi replacement and what years? I found some that are quite a but cheaper than the OEM listed for the Otback;

 

would these fit OK? ;

 

ST2020055000 Impreza

2002-2005 STI BUSHING TV LINK ® Right Side ONLY for Impreza RS & WRX 02-05 $49

ST2020055010 Impreza

2002-2005 STI BUSHING TV LINK (L)Left Side ONLY for Impreza RS & WRX 02-05 $49

 

I saw those at;

 

http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_...?model=Impreza

 

 

If so, for the money and ease of not actually cutting the old bearing sleeve out for some prothane or whiteline inserts, I'd go for some STI mounts.

 

 

For folks who might be interested in some changes to the dynamics, there's the anti-lift kits from whiteline - is the KCA361 a fit? Also, can anyone confirm the install torque numbers for the bolts/nut? (I got those numbers from the whiteline install info)

 

 

2 mount-to-chassis bolts = 184 ftlbs.

 

1 control arm nut = 140 ftlbs.

 

 

see: http://www.whiteline.com.au/instruct...9f_KCA319A.pdf

 

 

I will be under the car in October for maintenance and checking this stuff - likely before so I can order parts - either way, I can't find a lot of reliable info on what parts cross over.

[CNY_Dave]

My legacy/outback manual says the nut (which is supposed to be replaced) is 137 ft lbs, the bolts are 181 ft lbs.

 

It also says there is supposed to be a gap on both sides of the bushing, 1.5mm in front and 1mm in back, gap adjusted by moving the bushing on the arm and using the oval holes in the bushing mount.

 

It also says to scribe a line across the old bushing onto the control arm, then align the marks on re-assembly. For a new bushing I guess you have to transfer the mark from the old to the new bushing.

[1 Lucky Texan]

My legacy/outback manual says the nut (which is supposed to be replaced) is 137 ft lbs, the bolts are 181 ft lbs.

 

It also says there is supposed to be a gap on both sides of the bushing, 1.5mm in front and 1mm in back, gap adjusted by moving the bushing on the arm and using the oval holes in the bushing mount.

 

It also says to scribe a line across the old bushing onto the control arm, then align the marks on re-assembly. For a new bushing I guess you have to transfer the mark from the old to the new bushing.

 

 

thanx! I didn't know about the alignment issue.

[Fairtax4me]

The bushing to frame bolts are big but 180 ft lbs seems excessive.

 

Also, the reason for marking the bushing is that it needs to be installed so the bushing is not twisted while the car is sitting at ride height.

[1 Lucky Texan]

The bushing to frame bolts are big but 180 ft lbs seems excessive.

 

Also, the reason for marking the bushing is that it needs to be installed so the bushing is not twisted while the car is sitting at ride height.

 

ah - so the instructions in the Whiteline document to leave the connections loose, drop the car onto it's wheels - bounce it a coupla times - then torque things down, would likely replace the alignment marking routine?

[Fairtax4me]

Yeah that's pretty much the way to do it. Only trouble is its a beeiotch to get a socket on that nut on the end unless the control arm is pulled down from the floor pan.

[Fairtax4me]

Excessive as it sounds, 181+/- a few Ft Lbs is the FSM spec for the bushing to frame bolts, and has been since the dawn of the EJ cars.

I've never torqued them to that on any of my cars. Maybe I should. :-p

[1 Lucky Texan]

Excessive as it sounds, 181+/- a few Ft Lbs is the FSM spec for the bushing to frame bolts, and has been since the dawn of the EJ cars.

I've never torqued them to that on any of my cars. Maybe I should. :-p

 

I'll just set my wrench on 60lbs and torque it 3 times.

 

 

anyone have insight on the fitment issue?

[Olnick]

I'll just set my wrench on 60lbs and torque it 3 times.

 

Good thinking, Tex. (Don't forget to add that extra pound!)

[CNY_Dave]

ah - so the instructions in the Whiteline document to leave the connections loose, drop the car onto it's wheels - bounce it a coupla times - then torque things down, would likely replace the alignment marking routine?

 

That's the way it's normally done with a bushing like this, if you can get a socket on the nut.

[1 Lucky Texan]

turns out that a Forester part 'may' work but, the STi or Legacy or other non-'lifted' soobs won't be compatible.

It's like the Forry and the OB cone from the factory with a slight body lift and the housing for that bushing is shaped differently to keep the steering geometry correct.

 

So, buying a replacement for $80-$85 or rebuilding for about half that seem to be the best options. Pricey little unit.

 

If a 2 piece, 70 durometer polyurethane bushing could be found, and if you can cut out the sleeve for the old bushing insert, rebuilding might be a decent option.