My turn for head gaskets

[Rooster2]

Last night my 99 OBW began to over heat. I caught it early, and got the motor turned off before any damage. I opened the hood, and found coolant spilling out the top of the radiator reservoir container, with bubbles coming to the top of the reservoir, like an aquarium bubbler aerator. I know the bubbles are a dead give away that the head gaskets are bad. So, it is my turn to have the head gaskets replaced. Seems impossible to drive an EJ-25 in the 1996-1999 year range, with out blowing head gaskets. My car has 197K miles on the odo. I am the second owner, so don't know if the head gasket has ever been replaced before. I am still able to drive the car for short trips, and it runs great without over heating, so I have some time to gather parts, and plan when to get it into the shop.

 

I have read enough here to know that genuine Subaru head gaskets work best. What website do you guys recommend to buy head gaskets? Does the head gasket kit package contain valve cover gaskets, or is that a separate part order?

 

I already have a complete timing belt kit, that includes seals, water pump, tensioner, and pullys that I will give to my mechanic for installation. I will also have him put in a set of new sparkplugs, while motor is out of the car.

 

My mechanic is well experienced in working on Subie motors, so I trust the quality of his work. Now, to bite the bullet and get the motor worked on.

 

Thanks for any suggestions and help! Rooster2, Larry

[davebugs]

I'd request he pull the engine - I think it makes for a better job and really doesn't end up taking any more time I don't think.

 

I never pass up an opportunity to reseal the baffle plate - although that one should be metal.

 

Accessory belts & coolant.

 

I get OEM HG and WP gasket. Intake I don' tcare but OEM are about the same price as OEM - and often aren't needed anyways.

 

Exhaust gaskets Felpro and OEM are pretty close in price, OEM are a little nicer but not worth a special trip.

[porcupine73]

I think grossgary said he always gets some Subaru part # ending in what 680 or something like that for the HG's. Now I am forgetting if that was for the phase I or the phase II.

[Rooster2]

I think grossgary said he always gets some Subaru part # ending in what 680 or something like that for the HG's. Now I am forgetting if that was for the phase I or the phase II.

 

Grossgary, I am sure will chime in with a reply. We can always count on him.

[Ricearu]

it's the 610 gaskets.

[michaelbteam]

I bought a 99 Outback a few years ago with a very elusive HG leak--would only leak [into the coolant] under heavy load. Radiator shop tested it for 30 minutes and could not get it to leak. ANYWAY--I used it all winter to commute 20 miles uphill from SLC to Snowbird, 3000 vertical. The overflow would be full when I got there, and at the end of my work day I would empty the overflow back into the radiator and drive home--no issues going downhill. I did this for two months and sold it cheap with full disclosure and bought another 2.2 Subie.

Buyer beware on 2.5's--HG problems can be well disguised!

[Rooster2]

I bought a 99 Outback a few years ago with a very elusive HG leak--would only leak [into the coolant] under heavy load. Radiator shop tested it for 30 minutes and could not get it to leak. ANYWAY--I used it all winter to commute 20 miles uphill from SLC to Snowbird, 3000 vertical. The overflow would be full when I got there, and at the end of my work day I would empty the overflow back into the radiator and drive home--no issues going downhill. I did this for two months and sold it cheap with full disclosure and bought another 2.2 Subie.

Buyer beware on 2.5's--HG problems can be well disguised!

 

Yea, this is my second first gen 2.5 motor. Last Fall, my wife burned up the motor in her 1998 OBW from a bad head gasket. I replaced with a 2.2 from a '95. So, I am not at all surprised to see my 1999 2.5 motor is like nearly all the others in blowing its head gasket. The motor is not damaged, so I will replace the HG, and motor on. I hope to get another 100K miles, by then the car will be junk.

[themoneypit]

if you need to drive the car until the mechanic can do the HGs, get a stant LEV-R rad cap and install it with the lever up. this allows the exhaust gas to burp out, and the car will still run fine and not overheat. ive used this method twice and leave one of those rad caps in the glove compartment of any phase I DOHC 2.5. it will keep you from being stranded. when you put one of those lever caps on, be sure the lever aims towards the battery when tight and you wont have any problem with closing the hood with the lever up. hope that helps.

[bstone]

if you need to drive the car until the mechanic can do the HGs, get a stant LEV-R rad cap and install it with the lever up. this allows the exhaust gas to burp out, and the car will still run fine and not overheat. ive used this method twice and leave one of those rad caps in the glove compartment of any phase I DOHC 2.5. it will keep you from being stranded. when you put one of those lever caps on, be sure the lever aims towards the battery when tight and you wont have any problem with closing the hood with the lever up. hope that helps.

 

Very inventive, my friend.

[Rooster2]

if you need to drive the car until the mechanic can do the HGs, get a stant LEV-R rad cap and install it with the lever up. this allows the exhaust gas to burp out, and the car will still run fine and not overheat. ive used this method twice and leave one of those rad caps in the glove compartment of any phase I DOHC 2.5. it will keep you from being stranded. when you put one of those lever caps on, be sure the lever aims towards the battery when tight and you wont have any problem with closing the hood with the lever up. hope that helps.

 

 

Thanks..........a great idea! Rooster2

 

 

Also realize that the vent screw on top of radiator at opposite end from rad cap, can be loosened to vent out some of the exhaust gas as well.

Edited August 4, 2012 by Rooster2
added info