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transmision problem? hope i dont need to replace.


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just thought i would get your thoughts on what might be going on. I have an 02 legacy gt A/T. I replaced headgaskets and all that fun stuff in december and had a transmision fluid leak in january that i fixed. I have had a check engine light on since I repaired it, one code was for an O2 sensor that I replaced (front) and it also had a code for something like a second and third gear transmision problem (its been a while not sure what the code was exactly) the car has run just fine untill today no problems at all. Then today the car acts like it doesent want to go at all in the city, it is fine at interstate speeds, but when im driving in the city It bogs down really bad and I can hear the a pop down by the transmision and exaust area, almost like a backfire sound. It only does it at low speeds and if i take it out of gear and rev the engine the problem does not happen. Do you think it is just my transmission going out finally (191,000 Miles) or could a bad rear O2 sensor possibly be causing this? Also would to much transmission fluid cause this to happen, obviously to little causes it to slip but could a little to much cxause it to pop like it is, and after 6 months of driving since I filled it?

 

 

Thanks for any input!

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Is the ATF temp light flashing at all at startup?

 

Does it seem like it is shifting at all? If not it sounds like it might be in limp mode which I think sticks in 2nd or 3rd gear all the time so you can still drive it, but right, it will feel like a dog taking off from a stop.

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Checked the codes and had a couple of them.

p0302 (cylinder 2 misfire) Im thinking now that this is the issue

 

p0118 and p0117 (o2 sensors, both) I replaced the front o2 sensor 2 months ago and think that the codes just never got reset.

 

After starting the caar today im thinking that it is not the transmission after all and that the noise I am hearing is backfiring in the exaust (would that cause a loud clanking noise?)

 

The AT light does not come on and I drained the fluid last night and there was no shavings or metal in the fluid so Im thinking it has to be the #2 cylinder. I have a fuel filter that I am going to put on when i get home and see if that helps, I am also going to replace the plugs as they might be fouled due to oil leak in the valve cover gaskets. The wires are only a year or two old so im ruling that out for now. What should be my next step, how do I check the fuel injector without just buying a new one and replacing it.

 

At this point im assuming I should just ignore the o2 codes and focus on the misfire. I should also mention that this morning I was an idiot and thought that I would pull off the plug wire to check to see if that was the issue and being an idiot i took it off at the ign coil (ya like i said im an idiot) got a nice couple shocks to remind myself it was a bad move. So I dont know if that would have thrown the code or not. The check engine light has been on for a while for a short in my coolant temp sensor but when the car starts running rough the check engine light flashes on and off untill i stop the car.

 

Thanks for the input so far guys! I thoght for sure at first it was the tranny and had already started looking for a new car (sad day) to get me by.

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What brand O2 sensors did you use? It is STRONGLY recommended to only use a Subaru OE O2 sensor for the front cat and either a Subaru O2 sensor or a high quality aftermarket for the downstream cat. If you use a non-OE for the upstream cat then you'll likely throw codes.

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I will change the plugs tonight, my wife just took it to a local mechanic that she knows while i was at work and he thinks it might be that my timing belt jumped a tooth and is now off timing, anyone think that this is possible. I just changed the belt in december and did a new water pump and new pulley system with a new tensioner. Seems unlikely to me that it would work fine for so long and then one day it would get me to work fine but have problems on when i left to go home, nothing happened it just started acting up. My problem solving thought process says that for it to get off timing all of a sudden is not likely.

 

he's thinking i should pull the heads off and re-time it and put new heads on it.

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It isn't common, but perfectly possible to jump a tooth or 2 and still run, poorly. And of course, it would be expected to throw codes as well.

 

But, not necessary to pull heads yet - just the timing covers.

 

As to what you do first - it's a dice toss but, if the tensioner is weak or the belt old and stretched, the possibility of a catastrophic failure is hanging over your head.

 

If you do sensors, plugs, wires etc. They will go to waste if the belt slips/breaks during a test drive of that work.

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