Question for EJ guys with SJR 6 inch lift

[torxxx]

So I'm real close to having the $ together to get my 6 inch lift from SJR. Wondering how much of an extension on the steering shaft you guys running an EJ series with the 6 inch lift on it? I'm figuring with the angle of the shafts and the ujoints on the shaft itself, maybe 3.5 inch piece added in?

 

I want to have a prototype welded up so when I get the lift on, I have something ready to go (just tack weld the extension in place for now, and then I can adjust after the lift) And are you retaining the stock steering shaft knuckle or using an older style? (reason why I ask, the EA82 Manual steering rack came with a shaft w/o that rag joint in the middle of it, its basically 2 ujoints on the end of a straight shaft and it 2 inches longer than the EJ steering shaft knuckle)

 

I know the radiator hoses need to be adapted, and the heater hoses. Shifter on the 5 speed gonna be long enough with the 6 inch lift? And what about the wiring for the engine? ( I looked under the hood and rough guessing, I think they will be long enuff, but it will be tight)

 

Thanks!

[Crazyeights]

You probably need to fit it after the lift is in place, tack it up, and them remove it to weld it up. Remember to wrap the U-Joints in a wet cloth to avoid damaging them from the heat.

 

Here are some ideas of what you can prepare in advance to make it go as smoothly as possible.

 

EA Lift steering shaft ideas

Edited August 3, 2012 by Crazyeights

[Scott in Bellingham]

heres the hoses I used

http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=1119673&postcount=9

 

 

 

upper hose

 

I got these at rileys you can see the # it also fits a 93-97 chrysler/dodge 3.3 v-6 concord and Intrepid lower hose

 

 

 

 

lower hose fits a 91 BMW M3 lower , I trimmed 3" off the top end

 

 

 

these hoses have 1 end smll for the rad and one end big for the EJ

 

 

this ea82 rad has the outlet sticking straight out, not up at a angle

[torxxx]

thanks guys. The hoses and what they normally fit will help a bunch. Gonna go track them down this weekend so I have them and dont have to worry bout it when the time comes.

 

Scott, do you have any EJ 6 inch lifts sitting on the shelf, or do you make them as people request them? My goal for August is to have you paid for the lift and the shipping so I can have this thing lifted and done being modded before the snow flies up here in Alaska. (the crap weather we have havin today, it could snow tommorow lol. lets hope it holds off for a bit)

 

And whats the total weight on the 6 inch EJ kit? I'm trying to figure out the shipping to Alaska. I had my AA lift priority bulk shipped and it was like 45 bucks or something. I can always have it thrown on a Lynden or Carlile Truck thats headed back my direction as well.

 

Getting excited, took the OB wheeling in the mud last night and it was hard to not want to take it where my lifted 86 goes. Keep telling myself I need to pull off the plastic bumpers and roll with out them til the left gets here. No sense in destroying 500 dollars worth of plastic bumpers when I can sell them and buy the tubing to make the "real" bumper.

[Scott in Bellingham]

Im sorry I thought you had a EA82 with a EJ swap so those hoses may not work,

 

I have one on the shelf, not always thou , I just sent one to Nome and it took 3 flat rate boxes and with Insurance will be $80 for shipping

Edited August 3, 2012 by Scott in Bellingham
detail

[NorthCoast]

Steering shaft extension is 4". I just cut mine in half and welded in a 4" nipple. Not pretty but it works.

[Fairtax4me]

(reason why I ask, the EA82 Manual steering rack came with a shaft w/o that rag joint in the middle of it, its basically 2 ujoints on the end of a straight shaft and it 2 inches longer than the EJ steering shaft knuckle)

Rag joint on the EJ steering shaft? I've never seen one. All the ones I've dealt with are just a straight section of tube between two U joints. The 2" kit I put on my 96 had a lengthened steering shaft with it. Seems to me it was only about 1" longer than the stock one though. I think they just cut the stock one in the middle and slipped a larger I.D. tube over it. Dunno how they figured the length though.

[tron]

watch the rear..

With this tall of a lift it lowers the spring perches down, these can hook under the body if the car is at an angle and the shock compresses. Your lift is bolted in to the stock locations that are held on the other side (inside unibody frame rail). These 4 points that hold the lift to the body pulled out, The only thing holding them is a tack weld from the factory robot arm that tacked that nut in there with no washer.

 

I drilled through the body completely and ran bolts top down with a cut piece of leaf spring steel on bottom as one washer with 2 holes. this prevented the dents that were starting to happen from the 2 mount points of each rear lift piece. For the inside of car i used large house framing washers to prevent pull through. So your just making a platform for the car's rails to sit on instead of the 2 mount points that seem for me to sink in to the frame.

 

the next thing i will do if it gets bendy again back there is to put a piece of pipe in between the 2 washer set up so the bolt and nut hold on to (sandwich) the pipe instead of putting pressure on the frame.

 

 

The rear seems a little waggly as the only thing keeping you up is the blocks and the shocks, they move from left to right a little when on steep side slopes. (sway bar is removed in my set up)

 

 

 

I LOVE my car and I love the sjr lift on it.

With the 6 in lift and 28.8in tires I am amazed at what i can roll over with out hearing a sound.

 

I removed the front sway bar and i (along with anyone wheeling with me) am amazed at how well she still handles on the street still.(just driving round normally)

Off road is amazing with no sways on these cars! My fern just slowly lifts one wheel then the other like shes slinking along the forest floor.

unrestricted indpendant suspension at its finest.

I wheeled her with the front bar on (came with no rear bar) and she would slip front wheels all the time.

 

I could not imagine trying to wheel this thing with out the low gearing of the DR transmission swap aswell.

scott makes a great kit and i wish i lived closer so i could wheel with him and his family.

Edited August 19, 2012 by tron
picture

[torxxx]

ahhh yours is the one on scotts website.

 

Well I got the forester struts/springs installed. used 98-01 front KYB Excels, 02-04 KYB GR-2 Rears. I got bored and decided to bolt on 30" tires on to it at work the other day... Front fits and barely rubs @ full lock. had to buddies sit on the front bumper to compress the suspension and somehow, it doesnt rub on the bumper. So close to having all the $ for the lift. Starting to get excited now.

 

After 8 years of wheeling my 72 hp Ea82, having this 155 hp with the EJ25D is gonna be nice. Oh, and I scored a Nissan divorced T-case and drivelines this weekend... (Got the full running truck for 250) Kinda thinking about putting the solid axle in the rear.... Guess I should get the damn car lifted first before thinkin bout that stuff LOL

 

Thanks for the tips. appreciate it

[Scott in Bellingham]

I scored a Nissan divorced T-case and drivelines this weekend... (Got the full running truck for 250) Kinda thinking about putting the solid axle in the rear....

 

 

I have those parts at my shop if you do the 720 t-case and rearend you will need 8" lift up front to slip the 2nd diff under transaxle, I can help with brackets for the rear solid axle

[Jerry DeMoss]

Sounds really cool. Care to share some pictures?