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Hello, my throw out bearing started making all kinds of racket the other day, so it's clutch change time.... I have changed a few clutches in other vehicles before, but not a Subaru. What is the quickest easiest method? Pull engine or drop trans?

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Get new clips from dealer for bearing.

If the engine is hard to separate, I just use a bottle jack against a 2x4 on firewall and the piston against the engine where the lift bracket is.

Saves many choice words and trying to get something in between the two.

While there if you have the old style separator plate, change it.

You don't have to lift the engine completely out of the bay. Just forward enough to access what is needed .

 

O.

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A quick google, and here's a picture for you. Stolen from someone on NES.

rear.seal.jpg

 

It's not really that much doom as long as you don't strip out the screw heads.

 

Unless the rear main is really leaking, everyone on here will tell you to leave it alone. I've replaced a lot of them if they're only just wet, and never had one leak. I guess my method works well.

My secret is the ring thing on the flex plate. I'll put the seal under it, and slowly bolt it up to the crank. It slowly pulls the seal in evenly.

Edited by 987687
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....My secret is the ring thing on the flex plate. I'll put the seal under it, and slowly bolt it up to the crank. It slowly pulls the seal in evenly.

 

Never thought of that. Great idea. But thankfully, this not my vocation., so I don't see a lot.

 

O.

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So don't worry about the rear main if it's not leaking? I have always changed it in the past with any clutch job.... So what's the deal with the oil separator plate anyways- is it a leak prone area?

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So don't worry about the rear main if it's not leaking? I have always changed it in the past with any clutch job.... So what's the deal with the oil separator plate anyways- is it a leak prone area?

 

The plastic ones crack.

If yours is aluminum, you're fine.

 

What year is it? We can probably be able to tell you what you have by what year/model.

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