jj421 Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 (edited) Hey there. Today I spend five hours removing my bad axle out of my '90 Loyale and spent another four hours trying to put the new one in. Had to call it quits for the day and was looking for some help on the install. So far I have managed to remove the original axle and I've installed the transmission side of the new axle. However, I can't quite get the wheel side in where it's supposed to go. I can't manipulate the axle any to stick the splines through the hole (excuse my lack of terminology). What I've done is taken off the brake caliper, hub, and rotor. Anything else I need to remove? I know there are those two 17mm nuts on the control arm (I think) that I plan to remove, but I gotta run to O'Reilly as the ratchet I have doesn't have the torque to break the nuts loose. Gotta pick up another set of adapters for my torque wrench (since I broke mine trying to remove the axle). Anyways, help would be greatly appreciated. I might be able to take pictures when it gets bright out so you can see my dilemma. Thanks! Heck, better yet would be if someone in the Seattle area could come to my house and help me with this (along with some other things)! Edited August 11, 2012 by jj421 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aba4430 Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 Not sure how you got the old axle removed. However, removal of the control arm pivot bolt, the two leading rod bolts/nuts (and not sure of the tie rod from the knuckle) have to be removed. To put back in, you need to thread the axle through the knuckle first prior to putting the transmission side on. Another way is to disconnect the knuckle assembly from the strut, but that is more of a pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 put on the nut and washer and pull from both sides with two heal bars or otc tools sells a axle puller tool for about 85$ a must for any oldschool subaru owner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj421 Posted August 11, 2012 Author Share Posted August 11, 2012 Not sure how you got the old axle removed. However, removal of the control arm pivot bolt, the two leading rod bolts/nuts (and not sure of the tie rod from the knuckle) have to be removed. To put back in, you need to thread the axle through the knuckle first prior to putting the transmission side on. Another way is to disconnect the knuckle assembly from the strut, but that is more of a pain. Well, the old axle, the transmission side came off without a hitch, then just pounded out the other side with a hammer and wood. When I first tried to install this new axle, I installed it through the knuckle first, but I couldn't get the transmission side on. Maybe because I didn't have the leading rod bolts disconnected. I'll have to play with it some more today. put on the nut and washer and pull from both sides with two heal bars or otc tools sells a axle puller tool for about 85$ a must for any oldschool subaru owner Yeah, I managed to pull the axle through the first time I tried installing it. But that's not the issue. Here is my car in it's current state (excuse my cat :-p ): Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 Looks to me, like you've installed the DOJ on the transmission first and are now trying to fit the CVJ through the knuckle. I've never found that to work for me. I've always pulled the CVJ through the knuckle first and then slipped the DOJ on the transmission. Make sure the holes for the roll pin line up first. Here's a write up I did a long time ago on what works for me (from the USRM). http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=615158#post615158 Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj421 Posted August 11, 2012 Author Share Posted August 11, 2012 Looks to me, like you've installed the DOJ on the transmission first and are now trying to fit the CVJ through the knuckle. I've never found that to work for me. I've always pulled the CVJ through the knuckle first and then slipped the DOJ on the transmission. Make sure the holes for the roll pin line up first. Here's a write up I did a long time ago on what works for me (from the USRM). http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=615158#post615158 Good luck. Yeah, I tried that method first, but couldn't slip it on the transmission. Guess I'll try again. But after reading multiple threads, it seemed most people start with the transmission side, then put it through the knuckle. Oh well, I'll try again. It was nighttime when I was working on it so maybe the day light will help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 Put it through the knuckle first. Undo the sway bar where it connects to the control arm, and you have the inner control arm bolt removed right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj421 Posted August 11, 2012 Author Share Posted August 11, 2012 (edited) Put it through the knuckle first. Undo the sway bar where it connects to the control arm, and you have the inner control arm bolt removed right? I do have the inner control arm bolt removed. And I can't disconnect the sway bar because my socket doesn't fit over the nut; it's not a deep enough socket. But see, now I've got another issue. As I was punching the roll pin out to take it off the transmission side, both my "punch" (left) and the roll pin (right) got stuck. No matter how hard I try, I can't get either one out. The punch successfully got the roll pin out of the original axle easily, so it's not too big. I know that I need to rotate the axle 180 degrees and put the roll pin in the other way, but, well, I can't take it off. Ugh, I am so frustrated with this axle. Nothing has been going my way since I started installing it. Edited August 11, 2012 by jj421 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 Well disconnecting the sway bar would be a huge help, so see if you can borrow the right socket, or wrench. As far as the punch, try a pair of dykes, or diagonal wire cutters, grab the punch with them, and pry against the axle cup and it should pry it loose. Or maybe tap on the roll pin and see if it will punch the punch back out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj421 Posted August 11, 2012 Author Share Posted August 11, 2012 You are a freakin' genius! Haha, I managed to get the punch out, but not the roll pin. However, the roll pin was out far enough that I could take the axle off, ergo allowing my to mess with it outside of the car, where it's a lot more comfortable to say the least. I'm gonna run to O'Reilly and see about getting a deep 17mm socket to take off the sway bar. I don't know anybody with a socket that I could borrow. Might buy the socket and then return it when I'm finished. :-p I hope from there I should be able to install the axle properly. But with my luck, something else will go wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj421 Posted August 12, 2012 Author Share Posted August 12, 2012 Anybody got any tips on slipping the axle over the transmission stub? I'm literally like 1mm away from it, but it won't slip over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj421 Posted August 12, 2012 Author Share Posted August 12, 2012 Nevermind. I have successfully installed the axle! Most of it was thanks to you guys!!! I can't imagine life without the USMB. Now, to put everything back together and clean up the mess.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted August 12, 2012 Share Posted August 12, 2012 Congrats! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj421 Posted August 12, 2012 Author Share Posted August 12, 2012 Thanks! Now I need to do my bearings.... I'd really need someone to help me in person with those though. But that's a project for another day. Again, thanks for your help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wentz912 Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 Lets help you out with your terminology a little bit here.... I'm pretty sure what you're calling a sway bar is actually the radius rod. Connected to the frame with big round bushings that it protrudes through, and two bolts/nuts in slotted holes that attach it to the control arm? IE these are sway bars and THESE are radius rods Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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