Olnick Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 I don't think my car would mind...it hasn't tried to kill me yet. But a car is just a big, dumb (albeit cute and lovable) animal. It depends entirely on its Master to provide and care for it. I'm just trying to maximize longevity for a part that's doomed to an early failure anyway. Why waste your money on a split boot and the labor to install it? Get a quality rebuilt genuine Subaru axle to start with and save money in the long run. MWE in Denver is an excellent source by the way. But whichever way you go, good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efseiler Posted August 19, 2012 Author Share Posted August 19, 2012 But a car is just a big, dumb (albeit cute and lovable) animal. It depends entirely on its Master to provide and care for it. Master? Yeah...but only after two tours of duty... --Damien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tallwelder81 Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 yeah rooster, my read drivers side cv has that basic fix. no duct tape, just the thick saran-wrap, and baling wire. and it has been okay for over 6,000 miles and 14-16 months. just ugly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 yeah rooster, my read drivers side cv has that basic fix. no duct tape, just the thick saran-wrap, and baling wire. and it has been okay for over 6,000 miles and 14-16 months. just ugly. Who cares if it is ugly! It is on the bottom side of the car, and not seen by anyone. Only you knows the seran is there. BTW, I have bought Subie seats on line from a yard that were protected with cardboard wrapped in heavy duty seran film for shipping via Fed X. Bet that seran would work great as a red neck boot fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 I'm driving with a damaged CV joint now and am looking for the least expensive option. I have done them in the past myself but do not currently have the tools or confidence. J and J charges around $250 for the job. Since the OP is in Vermont he may want to contact South End Auto in Lyndonville that routinely does the entire job for under $100!!! On temporary fixes, more power to those who are able to get these to work. All of the licensed and official garages will only recommend authorized fixes. The really questionable ones will scare owners with the liklihood of the front end breaking down while going down the highway at 65 mph with terrible consequences and they can't let you leave the shop until they fix your car ("Mr Goodwrench has you by the balljoints"). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efseiler Posted August 25, 2012 Author Share Posted August 25, 2012 I'm driving with a damaged CV joint now and am looking for the least expensive option. I have done them in the past myself but do not currently have the tools or confidence. J and J charges around $250 for the job. Since the OP is in Vermont he may want to contact South End Auto in Lyndonville that routinely does the entire job for under $100!!! On temporary fixes, more power to those who are able to get these to work. All of the licensed and official garages will only recommend authorized fixes. The really questionable ones will scare owners with the liklihood of the front end breaking down while going down the highway at 65 mph with terrible consequences and they can't let you leave the shop until they fix your car ("Mr Goodwrench has you by the balljoints"). Yeah, Mark of 'South End Auto' is a pretty honest guy who does good work at a nice price. If you live in the area also try Andy of 'Burke View Garage' (I think they used to call themselves 'Auto Shed'). He's a little more expensive but does excellent work. But never take it into a dealer...no matter what. Their crack team of terrorist attorneys will make you pay a fortune for a simple repair...and there's no upside to it, either. Cheers! --Damien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Milkman Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 Heys guys, just picked up a 90 fwd L wagon last weekend with the right side CV joint already clicking/popping. At this ppoinit is my joint too far gone to do the boot fix or is it still correctable? thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 you can try putting grease back in it and wrapping it with saran wrap, temporarily. if it quiets down i would re-boot it . but chances are pretty good that it will not improve. once they start making noise they are pretty much short for this world, i think. just my guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subieresurrect Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 The easiest and cheapest fix is to just go to your parts store and buy a universal boot to replace it. it comes in two parts, cut the old one off clean it out then repack the bearings with grease. The replacement comes in two parts and glues together then clamps on. I have only used one once but it seemed to hold pretty well. just make sure you clean it well and glue it well!! http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_c-v-joint-solvent-welded-split-boot-kit-outer-dorman--oe-solutions_5830000-p[/url] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efseiler Posted August 31, 2012 Author Share Posted August 31, 2012 ok...but it says 'outer'....the boot that burst was 'inner' (nearest the xmission). --Damien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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