Tighten crank pulley/bolt without dismantling engine?

[1997reduxe]

Hey all.

So it's been about two months since my mechanic changed my timing belt. No probs yet, and last weekend I drove about 10 hours or so total to San Antonio, Austin and back to Houston, and yesterday I noticed a strange vibe/noise from engine, and saw the crank pulley's loose. If he were real nearby, I'd drive it right over to him, but he's a least an hour away.

Can you tighten the crank bolt without taking apart the tb cover etc?

I only did it before when I did my own tb, and had all the stuff off already.

Thanks,

Dan

[The Dude]

The short answer is yes, but removing the timing belt covers is the least of your worries. On my car, a 2006 Forester AT, I would need the following items to tighten my crank bolt:

 

22mm hex socket, do not use a 12 pt

Piece of old accessory belt

Chain wrench, the chain wrench everyone used to use is no longer available to Habor Freight

10mm, 12mm sockets and ratchet to remove drive belt

And the biggie:

A torque wrench capable of measuring around 130 ft-lbs.

 

There's limited room the Forester engine compartment. I think I might have to take out the fans to make room to put a torque wrench on the crank bolt.

 

If you have a manual you may not need the chain wrench. Some might argue that you don't need a torque wrench, but I would say that you do. It's impossible to estimate 130 ft-lbs by hand, and it is a CRITICAL torque setting. Hogging out your crankhaft is not a desired outcome. Depending on the engine, and MY, the crank bolt torque value may vary. One of the popular repair manuals incorrectly speced the crank bolt torque at only 70 ft-lbs.

 

But wait for one of the uberwrenches on this board to make a post. They might know an easier way to handle this job.

Edited August 19, 2012 by The Dude

[johnceggleston]

since the job was done recently chances just the pulley is loose, not the sprocket behind it. if the engine is running well, i would just torque it to 140 ft lbs and keep an eye on it in the future. the wobble in the pulley is a dead give away to a loose bolt.

 

how loose was the bolt / pulley?

 

if you remove the bolt you should be able to see the key way in the pulley and the crank shaft. (you may need a mirror.) if the key way for the crank and pulley are aligned you are golden. it they are a little of you are probably still good. but if they are way off the pulley is probably mucked up and i'd be tempted replace the pulley and recheck the timing and the crank sprocket. but if the timing or the sprocket were off very much the car would not run well.

[1997reduxe]

What I seem to remember was there was a hole on the engine which you could stick a screwdriver in to hold the engine? Pretty hazy on that though...

Thanks though. I do have the HF chain wrench from last time I did it. Now for the torque wrench, I think my brother took his with him.

Hmmm.

[1997reduxe]

Thanks, John.

It's not that loose, just wobbling somewhat. And it runs ok, just the noise of the belts. I'm gonna see if I can tighten it as much as possible and see if it tightens up and take it to him to retighten hard.

[1 Lucky Texan]

The pulley is 2 piece right? Just have him double check the condition of the rubber - and of course that it's running tru after he re-mounts it.

[ocei77]

What I seem to remember was there was a hole on the engine which you could stick a screwdriver in to hold the engine? Pretty hazy on that though....

 

There is an access hole below the throttle body. A plastic tab covers it (which you may not get to sit properly on replacement. I just left mine off)

Hidden behind the PCV hoses and the IAC valve (if yours is on the block).

You have to remove the air box.

You then have to turn the crank til one of the slots in the flex plate appears (assuming you have an auto, if not just find the teeth) and put the bar there.

Make sure you angle it so that it does not smash the sensor as you tighten the bolt.

 

O.

[johnceggleston]

for an auto trans car, this is how you lock the flex plate for crank pulley bolt tightening. two screw drivers, one from each side, on the bell housing tucked into the holes on the flex plate.

 

the flex plate bolts usually. there isn't a lot of room in there and there are 4 flex plate to torque converter bolts. the screw driver should catch on the bolt or the contours of the flex plate at the bolt.

 

the ej22 flex plate has a smaller diameter than the ej25 but you should still be able to find a ''catch''. any catch will do. see below and find a ''catch''. this pic even shows a screwdriver in the hole.

 

(thanks, google images)

 

 

Edited August 18, 2012 by johnceggleston

[ocei77]

Saw that before in one of your previous posts, but there's no way you can do this with the engine in the car.

 

O.

[johnceggleston]

Saw that before in one of your previous posts, but there's no way you can do this with the engine in the car.[/QUOTe]

 

yes you can. you just have to slide the screwdriver in and rotate the crank by hand until the driver slips into the flex plate. i have done it with a shorter screwdriver and using only one side. it works great. you just have to find the hole.

[Fairtax4me]

Saw that before in one of your previous posts, but there's no way you can do this with the engine in the car.

 

O.

 

Of course you can. The holes don't move when you take the engine out. Just spin the crank with a breaker bar until the screwdriver slides into the flywheel.

 

I use a 6" long 1/4" allen driver inserted from the passenger side. Never has failed to hold the crank in place while I wail on the bolt.

[ocei77]

Live and learn

 

O.

[1997reduxe]

thank you all very much.

That was what I was wondering.

Oh, and just for future reference by others interested in this topic,

I found that Autozone lends out torque wrenches, they "sell" it to

you for 100 dollar deposit, then you take it back and they refund.

(At least here in Houston).

Good week, all.

Dan

:cool:

Edited August 19, 2012 by 1997reduxe

[glennda5id]

If you have an automatic. I recommend removing the toqrue converter/flex plate bolts and using a pry bar to lock everything down. This is pretty easy to do.

[torxxx]

all I've ever done is jam a 3/8" extension down through the access hole for removing the TQ bolts. turn the engine over til u see one of the holes in the flex plate, jam that extension in there and have someone hold it. It will wedge itself between the bellhousing/flexplate.

 

Or go rent/buy the crank pulley wrench (3 pin, a GM water pump wrench usually fits on the holes) Doing it with a crank pulley wrench, there is literally ZERO chance of damaging someone on the engine.

 

 

I dont recommend a chain wrench on the crank because it will damage the grooves for the belts.

[ShawnW]

Here's a tool I like so far and for $44.95 its hard to beat.

 

Subaru Crank Pulley Tool C23-503

http://www.etoolcart.com/subaru-crank-pulley-tool.aspx

 

I have also used the dealer versions they are like this one:

http://www.etoolcart.com/crank-pulley-wrench-499977000a.aspx A lot more expensive but it works and its nice to be able to put your favorite breaker bar or ratchet on it.

[Ricearu]

I do it without the alternator and power steering pump in place and just put my 12mm with extensions under the intake and into the top access hole on one of torque converter bolts. Once it wedges against the access hole side, it won't turn and won't damage the flexplate.