O.C.D.'s 1980 Brat - "The Squirrel"

[86BRATMAN]

the great part about subaru and their parts is those mustache bar bushings and stuff are virtually identical to what they use on the 90s legacy/impreza rear suspension

[O.C.D.]

I have never seen such detail and effort to bring a Brat back. I think it's great! Plus you had the part numbers for the bushings on the mustache bar. Big help. Going to have a shop press them in tomorrow. Gave it a effort but the old ones were not budging. How have you managed to find some of these old part numbers? My local dealer is useless when it comes to our old Brats. I just buy parts online.

 

I have an old .pdf from the late 70's that has most of the correct parts.  I then shop at a reputable dealer in WA and search for the part.  About 50/50 on success but sometimes there is a new part number that cross references and turns out to be right.  Plus I call a lot and make sure that I am on the right path for the part.  I have honestly not been able to find maybe 10 or so parts.  Everything else is still around if you look hard enough.

[O.C.D.]

the great part about subaru and their parts is those mustache bar bushings and stuff are virtually identical to what they use on the 90s legacy/impreza rear suspension

I think my 2005 LGT has the same bushings in the LCA's as well!!!

 

I laughed when I saw that one.  Nothing like 1960/70's technology running into the next century!

[O.C.D.]

I might as well keep posting in my thread, lol.

 

Still looking for any insights on the voltage regulator and the alternator.  What are you all using on these old girls?

[O.C.D.]

Actually finished up the reseal this last Monday.  Was impressed that I got is all back together, lol.

 

The air lines for the heads were so bad from oil but I got them all cleaned up and mounted.

 

Carbs suck, have I ever mentioned this?  I can usually make them work but this one has me perplexed.  So many little nuances that went into the design of this thing.  But I am sure that you all have seen these if you are reading this.  Here is the before:

 

Decided it time for the thermostat to be done.  I am betting that this was the OEM one from the original build.

 

And voila!  All buttoned up and ready to be back in her home.

 

It has been brought to my attention that I need to paint the pulleys.  So I may do that as well.

[O.C.D.]

But I need carb help.  Can any of you tell me what I have here and if this is right or bad?

 

See my finger in there.  This is a weight of some sort that actuates a lever or arm.  Seems to be connected to the secondary?  Should this be connected to anything?

 

Look at the first and second pic quickly.  What am I moving?

 

These two vacuums.  They have hoses attached but is there something else missing?  Are they supposed to be connected?  The one on the right has a hole for a spring?  Would that connect to the part above it?

 

From the last pic I asked about the "part" above the vacuum.  Here is that part.  It seems you can advance or retard it?  What is this? and what should it be connected to?

 

I don't have the naming conventions for these parts but I would appreciate some insights.  Anyone have an exploded view of this carb or a link to a proper rebuild of the carb?

 

Thanks.

Jon

[O.C.D.]

Seems I am missing a lot of linkage parts?

 

Edited June 13, 2013 by O.C.D.

[O.C.D.]

So either my build is only visible to me on USMB or ?  How come no one is wanting to help with my questions?  Kind of frustrating as I see others posting????

 

Oh well, I will try and ask some more.

 

Anyone have any insights or helpful links to rebuilding the EA71 trans?  I have it ready to be re-sealed and all I can find is the EA81/82 rebuild thread.

 

I would really appreciate some hints or things to lookout for.

[wallaby]

i applaud your dedication.....

as noone else has pitched in i will offer what i can - my experience is with EA81's though

are you trying to keep it original?

you could use a weber if not - much simpler

but if you must use the original - try to find an unmolested one to steal parts off and see how it works

OR remove all that stuff and run the carb without the extras - there is some info on this, i tried it on a hitachi with variable success.......

 

search around in the old gen forum - there are much more knowlegeable people in there

[turbosubarubrat]

still need to know anything about the carb? im doing the same carb too and i have taken it completely apart besides the glass on the center part. i even took the linkage off and wire wheeled them clean i also took out and sanded the circle things to where they look new(forgot the right term)along with the rod that holds them on. i used a rotory tool to grind the smashed ends off the little brash screws to make them come out without braking whick is the only way to take off the little circles. im going to post a pic here once i finsh because i will be done painting it, its 2/3's done and it will be on the already painted intake monifold.

[O.C.D.]

Thank you for the responses guys.  I hate to post such a whiney comment but this place is not like it used to be (and I have only been here for 15 months?)?  Not many people commenting on the builds unless it is new people or the 27 page threads that have no updates?  Any way, I digress.

 

I am looking into purchasing a Weber based on trying to find out what I am missing from the above pic.  I have not been able to locate those linkages and have learned that the Weber is so much easier to install/run/tune.  So for now I will scratch the carb questions.

 

I am interested in the trans rebuild now though.  I am going to start it tonight and have been looking for anything that can tell me what to do with this trans.  What to do, look out for and just simple practices are what I am after.

 

Wallaby - I am trying to make this as stock as possible but refining some aspects like the wheels/tires/seats/carb etc.  I do want an almost original Brat though.

 

Thanks.

Edited June 21, 2013 by O.C.D.

[O.C.D.]

Guys I need some help. I was able to get the 4wd portion off of the case but I am stuck. There is a castle nut on the shaft and I cannot for the life of me get it to budge. Can anyone lend a hand on this one?

Edited June 24, 2013 by O.C.D.

[O.C.D.]

Try again. Needs to be rotated 90 degrees.

Edited June 24, 2013 by O.C.D.

[O.C.D.]

And I give up, lol. Any way I am sure you can see the nut. I built a special tool and have even torched it. I cannot get it to move. And from what I can tell this gear has to come off to remove the next part of the case.

[O.C.D.]

I should have identified properly. It looks like the pinion shaft for the 4wd. Gear #22.

Edited June 24, 2013 by O.C.D.

[Mykeys Toy]

I wish I could help.. I am a barely functioning back yard mech.  I do feel your pain. There are only a handful of people on here that have done anything with the trannies.. GD if he is still on.. I haven't seen him in a while and Idasho    I am sure there are more, these are the only two that come to mind now..  Wallaby is right these questions would be more readily answered in the old gen forum.   Not everyone checks the build threads..  I do but I like like some of the creative ways you builders get stuff done.

 

Mike

[l75eya]

Might want to ask general tech questions in the general tech forum instead of on your build thread. Will get a little more traffic there, I think. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forum/4-old-gen-80s-gldlxtloyales/

[goblewagon]

it looks like there is a locking collar on the nut. so the lip on the nut is pressed on the shaft to keep it from backing off.

[O.C.D.]

it looks like there is a locking collar on the nut. so the lip on the nut is pressed on the shaft to keep it from backing off.

Yes indeed and I have used a punch to push the locks out. Someone else has been in this before so it wasn't too hard.

 

I will ask in the other forums.

[O.C.D.]

On a side note....

 

While fighting this gear I started mounting a 2002 WRX seat into the Brat last Saturday.  Needless to say it is a chore as the new seat is wider, taller, and deeper than the little gen 1 seats.  But,..........  I have found a way and I think it will work perfectly.  I will post pics later after I mount it but in general this is what I am doing.

 

 

By using 1"x1" angle iron I can compensate for the 2" width difference.  As is the passenger seat is ready to be welded and when I sit in it my head has about 3/4" clearance.  So this is either ingenious or I may have it wrong.  But ya never know until you try.

 

And to have the first Gen 1 Brat with WRX seats in the world, I will make it work.

[goblewagon]

hmm maybe just try a little impact action lol

[l75eya]

 

So this is either ingenious or I may have it wrong

 

 

Haha! That's basically my motto =P

[O.C.D.]

 

 

Haha! That's basically my motto =P

Well, I was right, pure genius!

[O.C.D.]

But first, the trany.  This thing was caked with oil and grime.

 

Bellhousing then.

'

 

Bellhousing now.

 

Took off the 4wd selector plate.  Shift fork seal is ok still.

 

And all cleaned up.

 

Got the 4wd case off.

 

And here is another shot of that damned gear I cannot get off.

 

Wheels make good trany stands.

 

[O.C.D.]

So, to the seats.  My little drawing above may not have been too descriptive.  But my idea completely worked and I have 2002 WRX seats in this 1980 Brat!!!

 

Here is what I made 4 of.

 

Here is how they offset the needed 2".

 

You get the idea.

 

Here is an example of one seat set.  I had to notch out the recess for the spring mechanism and slide clamp.  Plug welds were also done for strength.

 

Before final clean up.

 

Stock sliding adjustments work and the modification can be removed for future if I sell the seats, etc..

 

I then notched the edges.

 

Couple of misc. pics.